-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Would you change this tire?
- Thread starter granpa in Cincy
- Start date
TicketBait
RT-S PE#0412
rear tire wear, shock
I kept 28lbs in the rear, mostly solo riding. With allot of freeway miles. I did have a blown rear shock that I rode with the first 18K miles and thought it was normal. Wow, what a difference for my butt with a working shock
Yes, lots of freeway miles for me.
Since we are on the subject of tire wear, I once posted about a nail in tire, as to whether I should replace or plug. The decision was to replace. I believe I had ride on in the rear as well.
I kept 28lbs in the rear, mostly solo riding. With allot of freeway miles. I did have a blown rear shock that I rode with the first 18K miles and thought it was normal. Wow, what a difference for my butt with a working shock
:thumbup:
Yes, lots of freeway miles for me.
Since we are on the subject of tire wear, I once posted about a nail in tire, as to whether I should replace or plug. The decision was to replace. I believe I had ride on in the rear as well.
scotty is right on target ... as usual. i run one-up with 24 in the rear tire and have all kinds of center tread wear. i'm at 18k and looking at putting on my 3rd rear tire ... probably before maggie valley ... just to be on the safe side. the majority of my serious ryding (other then short runs to the store) is done north of 70 mph. first tire, 28 psi, ran 7K ... this one ran 11K at 24 psi. not pleased with first one ... i'm ok with the second ... the price of my ryding style. fronts are original at 18.5 psi and only show a little inside wear. may have the dealer look at toe-in when i have them replaced ... maybe before maggie valley, don't know for sure. spyder is a 2-year-old RT.. just my .02
... and personal experience.thehawk
missouriboy
Active member
Good point. Also, that old rule of thumb was for bias-ply tires, before the days of radials. Maybe it's different now, I dunno. Radials "squirm" differently.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
CHANNELING RAIN OUT
Where do you see a problem with CHANNELING water / rain out with this tire.......A wide tire tends to float unless the tread is about one inch or more anyway..you just have to slow down.........MOST so called AQUA-PLANING incidents are more often caused by substances on the ROAD SURFACE other than WATER......Like OIL, ANTI-FREEZE, etc..........................Mike :thumbup:
I would, mine look like this around 18K and I change them, I was headed to Spyderfest both times when I
replaced because and there was gonna be allot of rain that I wanted to have channeled out. My fronts lasted
to 33K, could have gotten a little more out of them but didn't want to hassle finding out on my trip.
Where do you see a problem with CHANNELING water / rain out with this tire.......A wide tire tends to float unless the tread is about one inch or more anyway..you just have to slow down.........MOST so called AQUA-PLANING incidents are more often caused by substances on the ROAD SURFACE other than WATER......Like OIL, ANTI-FREEZE, etc..........................Mike :thumbup:
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Yes, radials do act differently. Belted radial tires usually ride very flat on the road, and are relatively immune to slight differences in inflation pressures. You can also run a fairly wide tire without tread distortion...until you get to very wide widths. In the case of the 2-ply OEM Kenda, however, the lightweight construction and the 2-ply tread make for a little less robust carcass and and a tread that seems to distort slightly at high rotation speeds. The inflation pressure can also affect it, but not always as you think it will. Increasing the pressure has stiffened the tire for some riders, reducing center wear at freeway speeds. It does seem to be unpredictable with the Kenda. Nobody has come up with a perfect formula to ensure good rear tire wear. Some have gotten only 7,000-8,000 miles, while some others have surpassed 20K.
SPYDERGUY1
New member
I personally would not change it. my original tire lasted about 13k ( my fault ) had to play and do the CSI thing ( what kinda burnout will it do ), now out of my system, mine was pretty bald, way worse than this and changed it out for my Oregon trip. Bearings were fine. Whatever your choice think it through and ride safe.
Bob Denman
New member
:agree: 7,000 miles on my OEM. There's probably an EXACT amount of tire pressure that's only measurable by an air gauge that's owned by NASA or some other agency that's good at spending other peoples' money...
It's probably about like:
26.82105473926 pounds of pressure in a cold tire when measured at 23.830227493 degrees Celsius in the shade, and on a floor that is cooled to 18.3500246 degrees... :shocked: :gaah:
If not; your center section is TOAST!
Spyderjockey
New member
:agree:
Bob Denman
New member
So Jim,
When your Michelin has finally drawn it's last breath; which tire do you think you might try next?
When your Michelin has finally drawn it's last breath; which tire do you think you might try next?
granpa in Cincy
New member
Well now we're ready for MV
granpa in Cincy
New member
Very little I-state riding and 28 PSI and it is an SM5. Get moving in 1st - shift to 2nd and then move out. Probably the same reason that I get 34 - 38 MPG and Dax get 24 MPG.
Similar threads
