Works Performance Shocks

[3Ryder]

WP Shocks installed...

Received the shocks yesterday and mounted them this morning. Very straight forward installation, with one exception. Space for the upper bolt on the left shock is very dear. I was able to find a low profile Kobalt ratchet that worked well; a standard ratchet and socket is just too tall to work. BTW - the bolts are 15mm.

Did not attempt to adjust anything; just went for a ride. Chose not to think about the shocks but rather let them "tell me" subconsciously about any difference. First thing I noticed was the dive when braking hard was noticeably reduced. The second thing was that, as hoped for, the bike was much flatter in the corners. The ride was marginally stiffer, but over rapid bumps, I thought the wheels were more glued to the ground. Sorry I can't be more technical, but I'm not an expert. Might have more to say after more miles, but safe to say, I'm very pleased. My old shocks found a new home on an RS.
:yes:

 

[3Ryder]

Rear Shock request...

Does anyone have a used (damaged or otherwise) RT shock that they wouldn't mind parting with?

 

[Tonga]

Received the shocks yesterday and mounted them this morning. Very straight forward installation, with one exception. Space for the upper bolt on the left shock is very dear. I was able to find a low profile Kobalt ratchet that worked well; a standard ratchet and socket is just too tall to work. BTW - the bolts are 15mm.

Did not attempt to adjust anything; just went for a ride. Chose not to think about the shocks but rather let them "tell me" subconsciously about any difference. First thing I noticed was the dive when braking hard was noticeably reduced. The second thing was that, as hoped for, the bike was much flatter in the corners. The ride was marginally stiffer, but over rapid bumps, I thought the wheels were more glued to the ground. Sorry I can't be more technical, but I'm not an expert. Might have more to say after more miles, but safe to say, I'm very pleased. My old shocks found a new home on an RS.
:yes:

Now these are the Shocks I should have bought. I couldn't wait for anything so I bought the Elkas and complained about the 300 lb springs to no avail. Your progressive 300/425 lb springs sound perfect as my 300 lb springs needed to have my compression and rebound set to just about 2 clicks from max to get it to stand up straight in the turns, well flatten out so to speak. I had to also cover the lower shocks to protect the shafts from road debri and my cover get awlful dirty so I can't imagine how long it would take to get those seals to leak. Congratulations on your purchase, wish Elka could get on the ball and use the same springs. They should have done the same homework as WP did !!!!

 

[3Ryder]

More thoughts on shocks...

Did quite a bit of riding over the weekend and continue to feel more and more comfortable with these shocks. The bike feels glued to the ground in quick lane changes and corners. The sweeping curves entering highways beg for acceleration. Given the fundamental geometry of the bike, the limit that I bump up against now seems to be the rear getting loose.

Have yet to make any adjustments yet. May experiment on a limited scale just to get a feel for what the differences may be.

In the prior post on the install, I forgot to mention (although many of you may understand) that you will need to jack up the bike on the center frame rail to take weight off the shock, both in removal and installation. You will need to slowly get the suspension to a point where the lower bolt frees enough to remove/install. I rolled the front wheels up on a 2x6 so my jack would slide easily into position for the job.

 

[Lamonster]

Now these are the Shocks I should have bought. I couldn't wait for anything so I bought the Elkas and complained about the 300 lb springs to no avail. Your progressive 300/425 lb springs sound perfect as my 300 lb springs needed to have my compression and rebound set to just about 2 clicks from max to get it to stand up straight in the turns, well flatten out so to speak. I had to also cover the lower shocks to protect the shafts from road debri and my cover get awlful dirty so I can't imagine how long it would take to get those seals to leak. Congratulations on your purchase, wish Elka could get on the ball and use the same springs. They should have done the same homework as WP did !!!!

I'm not sure why these are not working for you, they're working great for me.

You can add a dual rate spring to your Elka's if you like. Give them a call.

 

[Tonga]

I'm not sure why these are not working for you, they're working great for me.

You can add a dual rate spring to your Elka's if you like. Give them a call.

I never said they weren't working just that I have adjusted both compression and rebound to just about max setting to achieve the results I wanted. I started out with both dialed back and the bike was bouncey and it stayed like that even at the half way setting. It only started to firm up at about 6 clicks from max and I just kept turning till I got a firm ride. Anything in the mid settings were the same as OEM max setting or even worse. I never got any indication from Elka of a Progressive shock when I talked to them. I have the 300 lbs spring compressed to 9 inches and will njot go any more because the Spyder just gets higher off the ground and I am already over an inch higher. It does track true and corners well but that is because of dampening.

 

[Trooper]

Tonga,

I sent you an e-mail weeks ago with our Fed Ex number to have you ship the shocks back here at the the shop for a free revalve. It is clear to me that you never did get that e-mail...or did you?

:dontknow:

John
Elka Suspension.

 

[clueless]

Did quite a bit of riding over the weekend and continue to feel more and more comfortable with these shocks. The bike feels glued to the ground in quick lane changes and corners. The sweeping curves entering highways beg for acceleration. Given the fundamental geometry of the bike, the limit that I bump up against now seems to be the rear getting loose.

Have yet to make any adjustments yet. May experiment on a limited scale just to get a feel for what the differences may be.

In the prior post on the install, I forgot to mention (although many of you may understand) that you will need to jack up the bike on the center frame rail to take weight off the shock, both in removal and installation. You will need to slowly get the suspension to a point where the lower bolt frees enough to remove/install. I rolled the front wheels up on a 2x6 so my jack would slide easily into position for the job.

any updates on adjustments? thinking I will not need adjustments especially if they dial them in great from the factory... do you need to remove the wheels in front to install?

 

[3Ryder]

No adjustments yet...

any updates on adjustments? thinking I will not need adjustments especially if they dial them in great from the factory... do you need to remove the wheels in front to install?

Did more riding over the weekend, mostly surface streets, but a lot of lane changes and the usual potholes, etc. Still amazed at how good the ride is (BTW - I have only the stock sway bar). I've been somewhat jammed on time so for the time being I'm happy to leave things alone for the time being.

You won't get any benefit from pulling the wheels to install.

 

[crtravelnmore]

Does the Works Performance make your :spyder2:'s front end higher off the ground and point your light beams up? Overall, has the ride gotten stiffer than the stock shocks set on 5? I know it's firmer in the turns . Where is your tire pressure? Thanks in advance:2thumbs:

 

[clueless]

Does the Works Performance make your :spyder2:'s front end higher off the ground and point your light beams up? Overall, has the ride gotten stiffer than the stock shocks set on 5? I know it's firmer in the turns . Where is your tire pressure? Thanks in advance:2thumbs:

He had told me in messages back and forth that the ride height was NOT affected. it was the same as stock when installed. I guess they measured the ride height when they had his RT at the works performance shop...

 

[spyder77]

Was ready to order the Works shocks when I read that they require periodic servicing at $85 a crack. Plus they are non returnable. Cost a restocking fee if returned. Even if package is unopened. Things to consider!!!!:dontknow:

 

[clueless]

Mine are supposed in the mail this week! :yes:

all shocks need to be rebuilt after so many miles. The Elkas are the same. I am not sure the return policy on the Elkas but Trooper can respond to that on the Elka threads if you ask.

just did a quick search and they are the SAME price $85. http://www.elkasuspension.com/downloads/service/ELKA-ServiceDept-MOTO.pdf
here is there recommended service chart = http://www.elkasuspension.com/?q=motoservicing#maintenance

but for the RTs we are not hammering our shocks like ATV or MX bikes but still ... sometime you will need to get them serviced.


I think both are improvements but if you read my thread on why I got the Works Performance, I got more bang for my $$ with the WP then Elkas in my opinion.... but you have to justify your own spending and where on your own

 

[spyder77]

OK! Had my mouth running before brain was engaged!!:shemademe_smilie: You're right. I didn't check far enough. Maybe I'll learn someday. Thanks!!

 

[3Ryder]

Just catching up on the last several posts.

Pierre measured ride heights carefully and was not affected.

Rebuild is not expected until you hit 30-40k miles, depending on ride conditions.

Expecting my rear shock today. This was a more complicated exercise to engineer because the shock and air bag work together to deliver the overall ride characteristics. For example, the single rear spring is only 200 lbs, which would be very light save some of the load sharing of the air bag. It also has two rates; it goes to 425 lbs in the last 1.5 inches, which gives it a very stiff reaction when you hit certain bumps.

Pierre selected a 200 lb, single rate spring for the new shock for a more linear, softer reaction. He explained that there will be considerable damping adjustment available and I may want to try some minor changes to suit my desired feel. The adjuster will be located at the bottom of the shock for access. Will post again with my experience.

 

[randian]

With the flatter ride in corners would that obviate any need for aftermarket anti-sway bars?

 

[3Ryder]

Forgot to mention, upon examining my OEM shock (has about 6k miles on it), Pierre noted that the top bushing was considerably out of round. He decided to use a metal bushing instead of the OEM plastic.

See pictures. Note the boot to protect the shock which is considerably more exposed than the front shocks. I installed today and will ride tomorrow.

 

[clueless]

Forgot to mention, upon examining my OEM shock (has about 6k miles on it), Pierre noted that the top bushing was considerably out of round. He decided to use a metal bushing instead of the OEM plastic.

See pictures. Note the boot to protect the shock which is considerably more exposed than the front shocks. I installed today and will ride tomorrow.

:clap:Nice :congrats: