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Won't start.

Dochands

Member
First thanks for all the nice birthday wishes. Much appreciated. However my gift of my bike not starting I would like to return. lol

First I thought it was cold. It turned over and then stalled. Then some white smoke and when I tried to start again it backfired and I got that rough clicking sound.

I suspect fouled plugs but am so mechanically challenged I don't know what to do next. My friend said one plug was easy and can be reached by taking off the left side panel by the oil. Sadly I am not even sure what I am looking for as far as a cable.

Can anyone point me to a photo of what I'm looking for? I found a post that stripped out the air box for the 'hard' plug. Sure its staring me in the face but hate to just start pulling at things.

Thanks in advance and thanks for remembering my big day.
'
 
First thanks for all the nice birthday wishes. Much appreciated. However my gift of my bike not starting I would like to return. lol

First I thought it was cold. It turned over and then stalled. Then some white smoke and when I tried to start again it backfired and I got that rough clicking sound.

I suspect fouled plugs but am so mechanically challenged I don't know what to do next. My friend said one plug was easy and can be reached by taking off the left side panel by the oil. Sadly I am not even sure what I am looking for as far as a cable.

Can anyone point me to a photo of what I'm looking for? I found a post that stripped out the air box for the 'hard' plug. Sure its staring me in the face but hate to just start pulling at things.

Thanks in advance and thanks for remembering my big day.
'

To tell you the truth, If i was you i would make sure the battery is fully charged, Then if that doesn't work i would
get some more ideas from Spyderlovers Before you start pulling at wires.
No insult here if you don't know what your doing you can only make things worst.nojoke
 
:agree:, sounds like you're battery isn't turning the engine over well. Doesn't sound like a fouled plug so much as lack of RPM in the cranking mode. Check the charge on your battery first and then let us know.

Charging the battery is easy, can't hurt, and it will at least eleminate that possibilty.
 
:agree:, sounds like you're battery isn't turning the engine over well. Doesn't sound like a fouled plug so much as lack of RPM in the cranking mode. Check the charge on your battery first and then let us know.

Charging the battery is easy, can't hurt, and it will at least eleminate that possibilty.
:agree: Check the battery connections for cleanliness and tightness, too, and also be sure the frame ground at the negative jumper post hasn't loosened. The change of seasons is a common time to find terminals suddenly loose or in need of cleaning. The temperature change allows gaps to open and corrosion to spread or terminals to become a little loose. This prevents full charging and reduces the voltage/current available to the starter.
 
Remembered BEST. DUH! Had the bike towed to M & H Motorsport in Tulsa. So much nicer than Honda of Tulsa. They have inherited a lot of business from their shennigans.

Also said they have access to the best dyno in Oklahoma so my turbo may finally get the tune up it deserves.

BEST was great by the way. Tow truck was here in a half hour and they had called the dealer already for the service. All paid for by them. Good to know they are there for real when it counts.
 
Thanks for all the help. Why this forum is so great.

But hopefully what will come of this is a service dealer I can trust and I learned that BEST is really good at helping you too.

I'll let everyone know what they find. I have had problems ever since Honda of Tulsa did the 6000 mile service. Drop in mileage. Rough starts. So maybe we can fix was was not broken to start with as well.
 
No they covered the tow. Lol

Heard from M & W Powersports and it was fouled plugs. Apparently my bike was tuned way too rich by the other shop. Real frustrating since I instantly complained about the mileage drop after my 6000 mile service. Took it back several times and they charged me every time.

Hopefully these guys get it right. Also had my frunk accessory plug blow a fuse every time. They say they'll fix that too.

So out of adversity comes success.
 
No they covered the tow. Lol

Heard from M & W Powersports and it was fouled plugs. Apparently my bike was tuned way too rich by the other shop. Real frustrating since I instantly complained about the mileage drop after my 6000 mile service. Took it back several times and they charged me every time.

Hopefully these guys get it right. Also had my frunk accessory plug blow a fuse every time. They say they'll fix that too.

So out of adversity comes success.

Well, you live and learn I guess. Also demonstrates how difficult it can be to diagnose a problem over the Internet. So it was fouled plugs. You should have carbon build up on your exhaust pipe as well if it were running that rich. I've richened up my fuel mix with the Juice Box and it's fine. The Spyder (as most vehicles today) run too lean (smog requirements) causing additional heat, lower fuel mileage and other related issues. They much have really cranked the fuel up to get it so rich it fouled the plugs and lowered your fuel mileage.

Glad you got it worked out. Sometimes dealers are our Spyders WORST enemy!
 
Good question. I assume there may be adjustment to the fuel circuit in the BUDS.
There is no way a tech can access stock Spyder fuel mapping or ignition timing, as far as I know. The only way to change the fuel mixture is on a modified Spyder. Is a turbo a mod?
 
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I'm a bit confused. When you service any engine I thought you change the fuel mixture and timing besides the changing of fluids and other items. I thought that was what a 'tuneup' was. Are those things all preset on a Spyder and if so what are they charging us for?

Are we saying here that only a Juice Box or Power Commander does that?

The turbo can be enriched or leaned but that's only during different ranges of boost.
 
I'm a bit confused. When you service any engine I thought you change the fuel mixture and timing besides the changing of fluids and other items. I thought that was what a 'tuneup' was. Are those things all preset on a Spyder and if so what are they charging us for?

Are we saying here that only a Juice Box or Power Commander does that?

The turbo can be enriched or leaned but that's only during different ranges of boost.
A tune-up in this electronic ignition and fuel injection age isn't what it used to be. There is no need to adjust the fuel mixture or the timing due to wear of the components, no need to fiddle with the points or carb settings because there are none. If you look at your invoice or the maintenance schedule, you will see that they no longer list "tune-up", but "periodic maintenance". To change the mixture on a Spyder you need a Juice Box or similar device, or a way to "fool" the O2 or temperature/pressure sensors. The timing is fixed and can't be adjusted.
 
I was told that my RT is sluggish off the line due to the lean mixture set at the factory for emission reasons. I know on the RS they have an aftermarket device that tricks the O2 senser into thinking it is too lean and the comuter adjust the mixtor richer to compensate, or so I am told. Can this be achieved on the RT? I can roll on full throttle but it acts like the turbo on my diesel, lag for a couple seconds before it comes to life.

Regards,

Randy
 
Just got a call from the service place. Apparently there is no boost getting to the engine. Prefilter was once again pretty dirty but with cleaning it they are not sure where the problem is. Potentially the turbo sucked a bunch of crap in the engine and they said worst case scenario an engine rebuild.

They are going through one thing at a time to see where I am losing compression. Keep your fingers crossed.
 
Final report.

Finally got the bike back last night.

Turned out to be the turbo's fuel management programming. Apparently it can get frozen and the solution thanks to Andrew at Hiperformance was to disconnect the battery for 24 hours. So I learned something.

M & W Powersports spent a lot of time on it and really thoroughly worked over the bike. Multiple compression tests as well. A big shout out to them. If you live near Tulsa and are fed up with the overpriced ineffective work that Honda of Tulsa has done for you there is a REAL ALTERNATIVE. As much as I like the folks up at Cowtown I am glad I don't have to make the 6 hour ride every time I need a service.

The bill was acceptable as well. We changed the plugs, oil, filter, and transmission fluid. Also tried to move the Garmin XM antenna since that's never really worked too well.

So I am back up and running. Expect to see a mileage improvement but haven't but out for a long ride yet.

Did start it up this morning and it cranked right up with no smoke or backfires. Good sign. Probably will run a few cans of Seafoam through since the engine has to be dirty from running so rich.

At least no engine rebuild in my immediate future.
 
im happy for you

Hey man im happy for you that it worked out with minimal cost and work for you as it would suck to go without our spyder for long periods of time:yikes:
 
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