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Won't start!
- Thread starter porboy
- Start date
Smylinacha
Yellinacha
Stick it on a battery tender for a while and then see. Or maybe you need a new battery - I know some people had to get new ones.:dontknow:
RoadHammer
New member
it's afraid of you........
Smylinacha
Yellinacha
it's afraid of you........
:roflblack:
Maybe there is no battery in there,
Check the battery terminals, could have loosened .Lose terminals will act like the battery's gone :yikes:
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Corroded battery terminals would do it, too. Clean and tighten the real battery terminals, not the jumpers under the seat. Your battery could have gone bad, too. Charge it, then let sit a few hours to overnight. Should still be 12.7 volts or higher when you check it. If not, it needs replacement. Also, check that the main relay or main fuse did not come loose during transit...in fact, check them all, including the fuses under the seat.
The move could have loosened something. Battery might have been shorted out between the plates while its in transit. Relay(s) and fuse(s) might be viberated loose. Check both front and back. Its gonna be something simple.
MarkLawson
RT-S PE#0031
If it were the kill switch, he should still get the readouts on the console.
:agree: Also i think on a previous post asked if your headlights or any other lights are working??
I though you might of said that your lights weren't working.
If there not working i don't think it's the solenoid.
I don't what else to say but ,If it was my bike i would be checking the ground wire from the battery, Or very unlikely you have a stone dead battery.??
krb1945
New member
Same symptoms last saturday
I had those same symptoms last saturday. I was scheduled to do a promised birthday ride for my neighbors son. Got on the spyder and nada, nothing. Battery was find. What I found was the kill switch was not in the run position but not all the way in the engine shutdown position and the spyder was in reverse too. I cycled the kill switch and got it out of reverse hit the starter after turning the key off and on and everything returned to normal. I hope you are experiencing this same simple to solve riddle. My really had me stumped for about 5 minutes. /Ken
I had those same symptoms last saturday. I was scheduled to do a promised birthday ride for my neighbors son. Got on the spyder and nada, nothing. Battery was find. What I found was the kill switch was not in the run position but not all the way in the engine shutdown position and the spyder was in reverse too. I cycled the kill switch and got it out of reverse hit the starter after turning the key off and on and everything returned to normal. I hope you are experiencing this same simple to solve riddle. My really had me stumped for about 5 minutes. /Ken
krb1945
New member
I didn't get anything...
on the dash... no lights nothing until I cycled that switch then got it out of reverse, note. I try to never leave it in reverse when parking, then I cycled the key off then own and everything was fine. It was puzzling because I too thought the battery had failed... but I found it had 13 volts using my fluke 77 digital. /Ken
on the dash... no lights nothing until I cycled that switch then got it out of reverse, note. I try to never leave it in reverse when parking, then I cycled the key off then own and everything was fine. It was puzzling because I too thought the battery had failed... but I found it had 13 volts using my fluke 77 digital. /Ken
krb1945
New member
Info from the BRP manual..UPDATED 4-22-10 / 8:41PM
procedures F5 fuse
If the vehicle will not start, test F5 fuse in the front fuse box.
Note: If fuse F5 continuously blows, diode D2 may be defective. Refer to D2 Diode (starter solenoid) in this section.
Note: The solenoid may be the cause of a blown fuse. If the solenoid and diode D2 test good, the oxygen sensor heater, the pruge valve, the fuel pump or the ECM may be at fault.
I am still looking for a fusable link but haven't found it yet.
More info from tech manual: The master fuse box under the seat... check fuse 3 and 4 Power comes either directly from the battery or from the voltage regulator/rectifier through MFB3&4 rectifier fuse (3). MF3 is a 50 Amp and MF4 is a 40 amp. Hope this helps... still looking for a fuseable link. /Ken
procedures F5 fuse
If the vehicle will not start, test F5 fuse in the front fuse box.
Note: If fuse F5 continuously blows, diode D2 may be defective. Refer to D2 Diode (starter solenoid) in this section.
Note: The solenoid may be the cause of a blown fuse. If the solenoid and diode D2 test good, the oxygen sensor heater, the pruge valve, the fuel pump or the ECM may be at fault.
I am still looking for a fusable link but haven't found it yet.
More info from tech manual: The master fuse box under the seat... check fuse 3 and 4 Power comes either directly from the battery or from the voltage regulator/rectifier through MFB3&4 rectifier fuse (3). MF3 is a 50 Amp and MF4 is a 40 amp. Hope this helps... still looking for a fuseable link. /Ken
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