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Won't Start, won't turn over

puff of smoke

Sold my 2008..bought a 2010... the fellow that bought mine has a similar problem except when he pushes start button there's a loud click and everything shuts down...almost like a short in starter button...says he saw puff of smoke....still on warenty and in dealers right now...hopefully they'll get it fixed for him.
 
My 2008 SM5 did the exact same thing about a month ago, when I was trying to come home from work. I had to try it about 6 times before I got it started. It would do its sweep, then when I hit the ignition switch, it would click on the right hand side, then shut the display off. I would have to turn the key back to off then back on, where it would do the sweep, had to press M again, then hit the start only to have it click and shut off again. My dealer in Deland, FL found some corroded/bad connectors supposedly on the battery. I had about 13,000 miles at the time, and my :spyder: is garaged as night, and is only out in the weather when I'm at work, or riding around. The problem has not reappeared so I'm cautiously optimistic that it is fixed.
 
This has been somewhat enlightening. I think that moving forward I will check/clean battery connectors every other oil change, perhaps every change during wet months. Better to be safe and take care of the things that you can control!

With those that had harness and/or connector issues, was there one in particular that caused the problem? I'm creating a cheat sheet for "things to check if..." I figure it sure couldn't hurt to leverage these pieces of wisdom! :D
 
Called the shop today (thursday) as it has been over a week since I went to pick up the :spyder: only to have it do the same thing (not start) when I pulled over to put on rain gear. They got it started again in the shop and have run it, but aren't sure why it wouldn't start. before. They figure it's "done" as it wont "not start" on them.

I now have no confidence with this :spyder:.

Not only did I lose out on the CHICAGO EVENT, I am concerned that my Spyder won't be able to make it to Gatlinburg this fall. as my :spyder: now has spent 4 months in reapair shops and only two months in my garage this year.

..And I want to drive this to AZ in Sept 2011???:shocked:


I tell ya, if this ryde leaves me stranded one more time this summer, I will be pulling the comfort seat, the Madstadt brackets and windshield, selling them on Ebay and demanding for BRP to take it back and pay the balance of my loannojoke
 
Called the shop today (thursday) as it has been over a week since I went to pick up the :spyder: only to have it do the same thing (not start) when I pulled over to put on rain gear. They got it started again in the shop and have run it, but aren't sure why it wouldn't start. before. They figure it's "done" as it wont "not start" on them.

I now have no confidence with this :spyder:.

Not only did I lose out on the CHICAGO EVENT, I am concerned that my Spyder won't be able to make it to Gatlinburg this fall. as my :spyder: now has spent 4 months in reapair shops and only two months in my garage this year.

..And I want to drive this to AZ in Sept 2011???:shocked:


I tell ya, if this ryde leaves me stranded one more time this summer, I will be pulling the comfort seat, the Madstadt brackets and windshield, selling them on Ebay and demanding for BRP to take it back and pay the balance of my loannojoke
That truly sucks, and I can understand your frustration as well.

When are you going to pick it back up?
 
Maybe I'm wrong here but this seems to be more of an issue with the SE5s. For what it's worth, I do not shut my engine off in any gear but nuetral now. This was a factory advisory, so my dealer says. All I can say is that I have not had the problem since that first time. Like I said, for what it's worth...:dontknow:
 
I told them I'm not picking it up this time. They were supposed to trailer it to me this week. It's now Friday night and I haven't heard from the driver. I am not surprised. :sour: At this point I don't expect it to run, I missed Chicago, and it's too damned hot anyway. I'm not in any hurry to be stranded for hours in this heat:chill:
 
Maybe I'm wrong here but this seems to be more of an issue with the SE5s. For what it's worth, I do not shut my engine off in any gear but nuetral now. This was a factory advisory, so my dealer says. All I can say is that I have not had the problem since that first time. Like I said, for what it's worth...:dontknow:


I shut it off in Neutral nearly every time.
 
Hopefully they will trailer it back to you soon.

I rode to an opthamology appointment in Aiken today. When I was leaving the ambient temp gauge showed 107. Running 65 mph for a while finally dropped it down to 100. Good news is the Spyder was only running at 4 bars on the temp gauge at 65 in that heat.

We still need to find time to get together for a ryde as well. I am going to Augusta for a poker run tomorrow morning, and am supposed to meet GI Joe there. :thumbup:
 
Here we go AGAIN.

I was on my way home from work and I wanted to take a run to the coast. Just before I got to the twisties (Hiway 84 through the mountains) I stopped in a gas station to top off my tank. Guess what I did? I SHUT IT OFF IN 1st GEAR! Guess what happened? THE :cus: :cus: :cus: THING WOULD NOT START!

I rolled it out of the way, and started going throught the whole cycling through the start process. On the 5th attempt, I got up on the foot pegs, Gave a good jump or two, cycled the kill swirch, turned the key, let it go through initialization, and BOOM! It started! :2thumbs:

I shut it down to see if it would start again, and it did. But this time the check engine light came on and guess what the message said? CHECK DPS!! :spyder:

At this point I am boiling mad, so I rode hard all the way through the twisties, all the way to the coast, up the coast and back home. About 60 miles in all, and it did just fine! The steering felt a bit harder than usual, but to tell you the truth, I did better with it like that! I had to kind of man-handle it and throw it around, and I enjoyed it!

SO I reckon I have to call the dealer tomorrow and see what they say. I'm riding on though. I dont give a :cus: !
 
Here we go AGAIN.

I was on my way home from work and I wanted to take a run to the coast. Just before I got to the twisties (Hiway 84 through the mountains) I stopped in a gas station to top off my tank. Guess what I did? I SHUT IT OFF IN 1st GEAR! Guess what happened? THE :cus: :cus: :cus: THING WOULD NOT START!

I rolled it out of the way, and started going throught the whole cycling through the start process. On the 5th attempt, I got up on the foot pegs, Gave a good jump or two, cycled the kill swirch, turned the key, let it go through initialization, and BOOM! It started! :2thumbs:

I shut it down to see if it would start again, and it did. But this time the check engine light came on and guess what the message said? CHECK DPS!! :spyder:

At this point I am boiling mad, so I rode hard all the way through the twisties, all the way to the coast, up the coast and back home. About 60 miles in all, and it did just fine! The steering felt a bit harder than usual, but to tell you the truth, I did better with it like that! I had to kind of man-handle it and throw it around, and I enjoyed it!

SO I reckon I have to call the dealer tomorrow and see what they say. I'm riding on though. I dont give a :cus: !
First, check to see that the battery terminals are clean and tight, and that all the relays are well seated.
 
First, check to see that the battery terminals are clean and tight, and that all the relays are well seated.

You seem to have amazing insight into to the technical aspects of this machine. I will do that and hope it clears. I have to admit though, my confidence in this machine is somewhat shaken. First the no-start issue, then the defective clutch which is scheduled to be replaced June 30, and now this... :(

Oh well, I'm gonna keep riding. It hasn't dropped dead yet so ride on I will!
 
I had an issue after playing on the banks at Daytona Speedway where my Check DPS light stayed on even after clearing all of the other codes. For some reason the other codes cleared within 1 minute of having the Spyder turned off but the DPS did not. After the ryde around the track I shut it down and let it sit for about 3 minutes or so. Checked it again and the DPS warning was gone. It has not come back since then either. I also check to make sure my fuses are fully seated quite often.

Hopefully it was just a slight hiccup, and things will be back to normal for you.
 
Next time you check the battery terminals install a set of the the anti-corrosion pads on the terminals. They are available anywhere they sell batteries. I've used them for years and have never experienced a corroded terminal.

A little reminder... every component on the spyder is controlled by something using electricity from the battery. If you lighten the load on the battery some you will provide more power to the nanny, electric steering unit and many other components. You can lighten the load by using the LED pucks in the signals, 194 equivlents in the tips and you can get LEDs for the brake/running lights. Just changing the tips from the OEM bulbs to one watt LEDs saves 8 watts of power. Granted you will probably only reduce the light load by half but that means there is more power available to the important stuff. During the heat of the summer, I recorded 112 yesterday at 3pm in Loganville GA, these little batteries take a beating. An example of the power one watt has is "one watt of power under the right conditions can send a morse code signal around the world."

You can also lighten the load on the starter and battery by using the best engine lubricant you can get. The better the lube the easier the engine turns.
Ken krb1945
 
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I had an issue after playing on the banks at Daytona Speedway where my Check DPS light stayed on even after clearing all of the other codes. For some reason the other codes cleared within 1 minute of having the Spyder turned off but the DPS did not. After the ryde around the track I shut it down and let it sit for about 3 minutes or so. Checked it again and the DPS warning was gone. It has not come back since then either. I also check to make sure my fuses are fully seated quite often.

Hopefully it was just a slight hiccup, and things will be back to normal for you.
When you were on the banks, your yaw sensor was tilted more than your other steering sensors said it should be. That tricked the Spyder into thinking your DPS or VSS was goofed up. It did what it was programmed to do. Back on the flat, shut off long enough to reset, and it breathed a sigh of relief.
 
When you were on the banks, your yaw sensor was tilted more than your other steering sensors said it should be. That tricked the Spyder into thinking your DPS or VSS was goofed up. It did what it was programmed to do. Back on the flat, shut off long enough to reset, and it breathed a sigh of relief.
As someone said earlier, you really do know a lot about these bikes! I'm impressed. :clap::clap::clap:
 
When you were on the banks, your yaw sensor was tilted more than your other steering sensors said it should be. That tricked the Spyder into thinking your DPS or VSS was goofed up. It did what it was programmed to do. Back on the flat, shut off long enough to reset, and it breathed a sigh of relief.

Yes sir, according to Kurt from BRP my Spyder thought I was ryding on my side and didn't know how else to compensate for it. :thumbup:

I sure wish you could look at my Spyder Scotty!
No one seems to be able to get mine to start.

I've had it.

That sucks Tom. I am truly sorry to hear this as well.
 
I sure wish you could look at my Spyder Scotty!
No one seems to be able to get mine to start.

I've had it.
I am no technician...just an old-fashioned dope of a mechanic. There has to be a logical reason for your starting problem, but it is difficult to determine, even for the best tech on earth, if the problem is intermittent. One question, does it make a difference which key you use? If it does (with the other key away from the bike, it could be a bad key chip. Beyond that, all you or your tech can do is start with the basics...battery connections clean and tight, battery fully charged and holds charge well, wiring connectors clean and tight, etc. From there you may have to branch off into computer modules. I hope you get it tracked down real soon. Things like this can make you nuts.
 
UPDATE!! I did what Scotty said to do. I let her sit for a good long while (so she could think about what she had done!!) and then proceeded to pull relays, clean contacts, re-seat fuses and re-install the realys.

I then put all the acess covers back on, put the key in,turned her on and she went through the initialization, started right up and NO CHECK DPS ALARM!! :clap: I am on the road and feeling better about things. :ohyea:

Scotty, I thank you very much for the insight. :bowdown: This too will go on my "trouble shooters cheat sheet". I guess being a wanna be wrencher from another era precluded me from thinking about all these electronics and how sensitive they can be. Y'all should take note on this one! It could save the day for you. :2thumbs: Lamont had a great point also about carrying a spare relay or two with you in the trunk. You see, that's the beauty of having a trunk!!
 
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