Won't Start. Remind me, what are .....

[bertmc]

2012 RT-SE, 13 months old, 20,000 mi. Engine turns over at normal speed, but won't start. Remind me, what are all the usual suspects? Got gas. Kill switch checked. All indicator lights appear normal when switch is turned on. Fuses OK. No codes. Put battery on Battery Tender until “storage” indicator on. 13.2 volts immediately after. Still would not start. 12.8 v after sitting about 12 hours.

Have tried to start about 10 times in last day. Kept on Battery Tender to keep battery charged. One time, it seemed to fire once (maybe) right at first, then just cranked.

Battery went down about 2 months ago when not ridden for about 3 weeks & would not turn over. Charged battery & OK since then.

Just returned from 2,000 mi trip with no starting hesitation. Did get a DPS warning one time early on trip, but it went away on re-starting, and did not return.

Anything else a dummy should check before trailering 140 miles?

 

[Bob Denman]

You're not touching the throttle when you're trying to fire it up; are you?
Have you tried your spare kep>

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Can't help with your problem except to say it isn't from letting it sit. I love to see others who put serious mileage on their Spyders. Good luck and I hope you can keep it off the trailer

 

[AWEInCA]

Push break pedal? Just brain storming

 

[spyryder]

Open throttle wide open.....it's likely flooded.

 

[billybovine]

Open throttle wide open.....it's likely flooded.

Flooded does sound like a good possibility. When the battery is charged up again. Try to start it with wide open throttle. This turns the fuel injectors off. See what happens.

 

[NancysToy]

Crank it for a while at wide open throttle to initiate the flooded engine procedure. It may satrt, but probably not. Once the cylinders are cleared try a normal closed throttle start. If it doesn't start in a few turns of the crank, try again with the throttle cracked open a tiny bit. If that doesn't do it, repeat the sequence. If a second or third round doesn't do it, pull the plugs and either clean or replace them. From there on it will take some troubleshooting...the old spark, fuel, air routine, checking each of those functions.

 

[happyspyder2039]

2012 RT-SE, 13 months old, 20,000 mi. Engine turns over at normal speed, but won't start. Remind me, what are all the usual suspects? Got gas. Kill switch checked. All indicator lights appear normal when switch is turned on. Fuses OK. No codes. Put battery on Battery Tender until “storage” indicator on. 13.2 volts immediately after. Still would not start. 12.8 v after sitting about 12 hours.

Have tried to start about 10 times in last day. Kept on Battery Tender to keep battery charged. One time, it seemed to fire once (maybe) right at first, then just cranked.

Battery went down about 2 months ago when not ridden for about 3 weeks & would not turn over. Charged battery & OK since then.

Just returned from 2,000 mi trip with no starting hesitation. Did get a DPS warning one time early on trip, but it went away on re-starting, and did not return.

Anything else a dummy should check before trailering 140 miles?

Left in Gear? Put Foot on Brake

 

[bertmc]

Crank it for a while at wide open throttle to initiate the flooded engine procedure. It may satrt, but probably not. Once the cylinders are cleared try a normal closed throttle start. If it doesn't start in a few turns of the crank, try again with the throttle cracked open a tiny bit. If that doesn't do it, repeat the sequence. If a second or third round doesn't do it, pull the plugs and either clean or replace them. From there on it will take some troubleshooting...the old spark, fuel, air routine, checking each of those functions.

Excellent procedure description, & it worked. I had to repeat about 6 times, but it had started to fire a couple of times, so I kept trying. Ran the battery below minimum cranking power, so had to charge between. But it finally started.

Was not looking forward to digging deep enough to find the plugs; have not been there before. Is one side better than the other for access, or do I need to get both sides naked?

 

[NancysToy]

Excellent procedure description, & it worked. I had to repeat about 6 times, but it had started to fire a couple of times, so I kept trying. Ran the battery below minimum cranking power, so had to charge between. But it finally started.

Was not looking forward to digging deep enough to find the plugs; have not been there before. Is one side better than the other for access, or do I need to get both sides naked?

Glad it worked. Although your plugs may be tired, I do not recommend changing them unless absolutely necessary. There is a reason that BRP allows 3 hours flat rate to do so. In addition, it is almost impossible to do so without damaging the plug wires, compounding your problems.

If you do decide to change the plugs, I recommend obtaining a set of BajaRon's plug wires first. Get his iridium plugs, too...they come with the necessary heat sink compound. The wires will come with the necessary plug boot release (dielectric grease). You will have to remove the body panels on both sides, as well as the airbox...or at least loosen both halves of the airbox. I found a series of extensions and universals to be of benefit, but supposedly you can remove the front plug from the opposite (left) side with a stubby ratchet. I have never tried. That may save some cuss words and some time.

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: BajaRon should be your next "call"... :thumbup:
Glad to hear that you got it fired back up! :clap: