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Wiring for Corbin Heated seat?

SpyderCruiser

New member
Hello All,
Meg and I ordered a Corbin Heated seat for our 2015 RTL last month. :ohyea: It will be delivered this week. Does the Spyder have existing wiring that I can tap into for the heated seat? I would rather not run wiring direct to the battery as some bozo in a parking lot can turn the seat on and kill the battery. Thanks for your help.
Louie and Meg
 
Look on Corbin's web site. There should be instructions for connecting the seat heaters. The instructions did come with my seat and a fuse adapter.
 
Hello All,
Meg and I ordered a Corbin Heated seat for our 2015 RTL last month. :ohyea: It will be delivered this week. Does the Spyder have existing wiring that I can tap into for the heated seat? I would rather not run wiring direct to the battery as some bozo in a parking lot can turn the seat on and kill the battery. Thanks for your help.
Louie and Meg

Id like to see pics of your seat when you get it.
 
Look on Corbin's web site. There should be instructions for connecting the seat heaters. The instructions did come with my seat and a fuse adapter.

Thank you for the information;), I looked on the web site and found it. The instructions are for a Spyder without the 2 fuse blocks. Hopefully since they know what year it is for (2015) they will send the correct instructions.
 
I have the BRP heated comfort seat and it's plugged directly into the existing wiring. Some wiring is under the seat and some up front. You will have to take some tupperware off to get to it. You then turn the seat on or off with the heated grip controls..I'm going from memory here but it wasn't that big of a job. Hopefully the Corbin seat will come with the same wiring.
 
They probably (Hopefully!), designed it to plug into the OEM harness...
Your dealer could tell you how to access that wiring. :thumbup:
 
On my 2014 I wired the corbin to the accessory plug in the trunk. Call me low rent but I put a 'cigarette' lighter end on the corbin wiring, ran it under the rear backrest, and plug it in to the accessory plug. Makes it double fused and turns off with key. I have run both driver and passenger seat and it handles the load. I just couldn't cut into my pretty spyder wiring harness.
 
Wiring Corbin Seat.

Run a fused wire to the number 6 fuse location in the right fuse block. You can move the 5A fuse from the number 6 to the number 7 slot. This make the plug in the trunk "on" all the time and the seat operated with the ignition.
 
Run a fused wire to the number 6 fuse location in the right fuse block. You can move the 5A fuse from the number 6 to the number 7 slot. This make the plug in the trunk "on" all the time and the seat operated with the ignition.

Wow, Thanks:clap:what a great idea! I already have the fuse moved so the trunk is hot all the time. Corbin sent one of those piggyback fuse holders so I will leave the piggy back fuse out and just install the fuse needed for the seat. Crappy weather here in NJ tomorrow so will likely install the seat Friday. I am not looking forward to installing the armrests. :gaah:
 
OK, Meg and I installed the seat, trunk rest, drivers backrest, and armrests today. After spending this amount of money I feel I should own free stock in the Corbin Company, Lol.

It is pouring rain like the hammers of hell here in NJ so we have not done a road test yet. We tried it in the garage and the motto is true, you do not sit on it, you sit IN it. I like the adjustable backrest over the BRP, can set it in just the right place. You sit lower and further back in the seat so the family jewels are not squished against the glove box. This was compounded by the BRP backrest pushing your butt forward (and I have a sizable butt, Lol :opps:). It does feel firm, but supports the butt and thighs well. I had trouble with the BRP seat causing pressure points on the inside thighs at the front of the seat. We cannot wait to take an extended ride and will report back on this thread.

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We wired the seat to the Light Green with gray stripe wire that feeds the switch for the rear heated passenger handles. The photo below shows where I stripped the insulation on that wire at the connector.

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Although it requires soldering to do it this way, there is no modification to the factory wiring, and you could always reheat the connection and remove the wire if need be. I purchased posi-taps and could not bring myself to use them. I cannot see how the little tiny pin can handle 4 amps of current. I also did not want to cut the factory harness wire and install a butt splice connector, but that would be a better connection then the posi-taps. I am not dog-ing the posi-taps, just my opinion that they would be better for low current connections.


Installed the supplied 7.5 amp fuse in a mini inline fuse holder. Bottom of picture, cable on bottom left goes up to the seat.

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Instead of running the ground up to the seat latch bolt like the instructions detailed, found a nice chassis ground here. Black wire behind braided wire.

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Chose to wire it this way because the Corbin supplied fuse tap has the tap wire facing the wrong way and will not fit in the fuse block (2015 RTL). Was not thrilled about cutting a notch in a waterproof fuse block cover that would no longer be waterproof. Wiring it this way operates like the front and rear heated grips, they will not turn on until the engine is over 600 RPM.
 
Forgot to mention that power was tapped at this connector so the wire does not have to run over to the passenger heated handgrip switch. This is the same wire as the one at the switch, it splits inside the wiring harness.


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