Winterize? Or leave it be?

[Beginner]

I normally go out to the garage during winter and start all my equipment up and run it for awhile so I don't have to drain it all for winter. Note to safety police : I leave garage doors open. Winter here lasts about 4.5 months and we do get into the negative temps often (not daily). Was thinking that maybe I should winterize it. Last winter I froze my asterisk off taking the bike for a quick jaunt to keep from getting flat spots in the tires. I don't own a snowmobile suit, so maybe I should look into that. Once there is a lot of road salt and anti skid, I just do figure 8's in my driveway. I got over 100' of asphalt in front of the garage, it is a little tight side to side, but doable. I used to do this in my mustang too, but I sold that.

Opinions on whether to winterize or leave it be?

 

[Mikey]

Don't bother with all of that, just put the Stabil to the tank, and take it for a ride before you put it up then put a battery tender on it, put a cover on it and say good night till spring!!! Trust me, with today's tires, oils and what not you are worrying about nothing!! That's the best thing you could do in my book, and a lot less hassle!

 

[MonPaul]

Don't bother with all of that, just put the Stabil to the tank, and take it for a ride before you put it up then put a battery tender on it, put a cover on it and say good night till spring!!! Trust me, with today's tires, oils and what not you are worrying about nothing!! That's the best thing you could do in my book, and a lot less hassle!

I agree, I think starting your vehicle in winter is an old school habit we used to do but conventional wisdom says you are doing more harm than good.

 

[Navydad]

DO NOT start your bike or equipment unless you plan on using it. The condensation that results can cause damage over time. I keep tank full with a fuel stabilizer in the gas and a battery tender on the battery. Bike starts fine in the spring plus it is ready to go when I need to be somewhere.

 

[BajaRon]

Warning! Not Recommended!

I let my GS 998 sit for 4.5 years. It had about 3,500 miles on the last oil change. No Stabil (but straight, premium gas). Nothing on the battery (it was already several years old).

When I finally got around to reviving this poor Spyder. I had to put a new battery in it. It started and ran OK. I put Seafoam in the 1st few tanks of straight, premium fuel. The Ride-On took a few miles to re-distribute. But no more than when I let it sit for several weeks. If the tires had flat spots they were gone by the time the Ride-On was happy.

I changed the oil after about 1,500 more miles. Oil analysis came back great with recommendation of going at least 1,000 miles farther. No evidence of any acid buildup or negative effects from the years it sat.

I use Amsoil. So that may be an advantage over other lubricants.

It is generally not good to start an engine and just let it sit and idle or run with elevated RPM as it takes awhile to get the coolant to operating temperature and takes forever to get the engine to operating temperature. The start cycle is a rich fuel mix. The longer it takes to get past that, the more fuel will get by the rings into the oil.

None of this is catastrophic. Just not the best way to do it. If you get a nice day in the winter where you can take your ride out for a while, that's a good idea. Otherwise, you're actually better off just letting it rest. Garaging with straight gas, a fuel stabilizer and a battery tender will be your best approach. Also, do whatever is needed to keep the rodents out of your bike. They can do more damage than anything else during storage.

 

[EchoVictor]

+1 to all the advice of fuel stabilizer, battery tender, cover it and let it sit.

Only thing I'd add is jack it up if you can to avoid tire flat spots. If not, fill up your tires to higher pressure to minimize that flat-spotting.

Later,
EV

 

[CsOldGrayDog]

Two wheels If it was above freezing I rode till first time they salted and gravelled these PA. Roads. Ryker as long as above freezing I may ride. That said, bike will be on charger, and sits in semi heated garage, so I don't normally have to prep for winter.

 

[Little Blue]

Cold Weather Storage

:chat:... +4 and more for the Tips. ....:thumbup:

Stay Healthy

 

[Markubis]

Same as stated above. Stabil in a full tank, ride for awhile to get it in the system, shut it down and use a battery tender.

 

[pidjones]

I would only add that on my carbureted engines, I idle them with fuel off until they stall, then drain the float bowls. But that is just for the ones that will be idle for several months. But the MAIN thing on carbed engines is to avoid the use of alcohol blended fuel!

 

[PMK]

Your owners manual clearly explains what BRP recommends. Maybe give that a look and compare to comments from these folks.

 

[DickB]

Your owners manual clearly explains what BRP recommends. Maybe give that a look and compare to comments from these folks.

What he said.

 

[Beginner]

I guess I should have clarified my original statement. I never just turn the bike on and let it sit and idle, if it gets started it gets moved. I have other equipment out there too (generator monthly runs, tiller, mowers, trimmer, backpack blowers, etc etc). I used to run everything until empty, pull all drain lines and drain everything. Maybe I am still old school in my thinking, but then again I am getting old. My pole building is insulated but unheated, unless I am doing some woodworking, then it gets heat.

Thanks to everyone that replied. I think the bike will get the stabil and if I want to run it around I will. I won't jack the bike up, because I move it outside when I am woodworking (pushed, not started and moved 20 feet). Even with dust collectors and vacuums, dust gets everywhere. Between my woodworking equipment, the bike, tools, side hustle equipment, and piles of lumber, my pole building needs an addition.

 

[BajaRon]

I guess I should have clarified my original statement. I never just turn the bike on and let it sit and idle, if it gets started it gets moved. I have other equipment out there too (generator monthly runs, tiller, mowers, trimmer, backpack blowers, etc etc). I used to run everything until empty, pull all drain lines and drain everything. Maybe I am still old school in my thinking, but then again I am getting old. My pole building is insulated but unheated, unless I am doing some woodworking, then it gets heat.

Thanks to everyone that replied. I think the bike will get the stabil and if I want to run it around I will. I won't jack the bike up, because I move it outside when I am woodworking (pushed, not started and moved 20 feet). Even with dust collectors and vacuums, dust gets everywhere. Between my woodworking equipment, the bike, tools, side hustle equipment, and piles of lumber, my pole building needs an addition.

It is always good to clarify. But many replies are generic because there are others reading as well. Might as well cover as many bases as possible to help the largest number of people.

 

[Woodenfish]

I live in Chicagoland and store my Spyders inside my attached and unheated garage. I never use any fuel stabilizer treatments because I do not believe they work or are needed. I always run Top Tier Premium Fuel at 93 octane. I fill my tank with fresh gasoline to top it up and connect my Noco battery charger/maintainer and that’s it. With a full tank of gas with a correctly tightened gas cap I have never had any fuel problems or worries about condensation development or accumulation in the gas tank on any engine I own. There is no need to start the engine unless you are going to be out riding long enough to get the engine and exhaust system to full operating temperatures for some distance.

 

[UtahPete]

+1 to all the advice of fuel stabilizer, battery tender, cover it and let it sit.

Only thing I'd add is jack it up if you can to avoid tire flat spots. If not, fill up your tires to higher pressure to minimize that flat-spotting.

Later,
EV

I put mine on stands just to deter critters from nesting in the wiring.

 

[Deanna777]

Same as stated above. Stabil in a full tank, ride for awhile to get it in the system, shut it down and use a battery tender.

Do you change the oil before you put the bike into hiberanation?

Deanna

 

[Markubis]

Do you change the oil before you put the bike into hiberanation?

Deanna

I like to change the oil at the end of the season. Not necessarily right before storage though. My feeling is that any crud and acid build up in the dirty oil won't sit in the engine all winter.