I trust myself to do engine, electrical, and mechanical work as I am a licensed stationary power engineer, but I dont trust myself with wheel balancing and brake work. I leave that to the pros especially since I am still in the "getting familiar" with the equipment stage when it comes to maintenance on my Spyder.
I also have a bad disc between L-4 and L-5 and dont want to deal with twisting around with the tires. Hey were you up in Northern Virginia doing a test ride on a RT back in august? If so my wife and I were the couple riding in front of you on a F3 LTD.
~~~ the only demos ive done on Spyders (& Rykers) have been in Fla. in regards to doing your own tire work, i have a bad back too, with the same vertebrae problems (L4, L5). When my back gets really bad, I can’t do any work period but I dont find it necessary to twist my back when R&Ring tires. That said, I’ve been doing my own tire work ever since I started riding motorcycles, beginning in 1974 so I’ve learned how to dismount and mount tires w/o harming myself
First time I did any tire work was on my first motorcycle, a 1972 Yamaha 360 cc 2 stroke enduro. I got a flat tire so I decided to learn how to fix that flat myself. Boy did I make mistakes! The first mistake was thinking I could use a flat tip screw driver as a tire iron. For sure, I ripped the new tube, but it was a valuable lesson. After that I bought a set of tire irons, and a new tube=
For years i broke the beads of the tires I replaced using nothing more than the heels of my boots. It’s worked well. The bead breaker you see in the photos Ibought from harbor freight. That made it easier but for years I just used the heels of my boots. We drove a 64’ MGB with wire wheels for a long time. Guess who did the tire work? Yeah, me. I R&R’d every tire with hand tools. UTs not as difficult as some think it to be. It’s all about leverage, and getting the iopposing bead to sit in the center well of your rim. That frees up enormous tire to grab with your tire irons. I’ve found that all you really need is 1 long tire iron, for leverage, then the shorter irons work quite well with no need to wrench your back to get the tire off or on
Another trick I learned was to have the tires you are working with warm. Even in Fla. it can get quite cold. We lived at mile marker 30 (Big Pine Key) for a dozen years. I saw temps in the mid 30’s. It never froze but just the same, 35 degrees Fahrenheit is cold so you have to move your work into a warm area. Where we live now (north central Fla.) we have two wood burning stoves so when it’s cold the tire work gets done in front of the fireplace. Sometimes all you need to do is leave your tires and wheels in the sun
Through the years I’Ve acquired more specialized tire tools like balancing rigs. I like to find the heaviest point on a rim w/o the tire mounted, then i mark that spot in the center of the rim with a magic marker
Another reason to do your own tire work- you buy the parts you need ahead of when you do the actual work. Specifically you want tom change the rubber or metal tire air valve. I like using rubber valves as they seal well although as long as you have a fresh o-ring, metal tire valves work well. This valve is esay to swap. I use a carpet knife and make an X on the inside of the rubber so it removes easily with the specific removal tool. That said, if you dont have the tool you can use locking pliers to remove but just the same, i like to use the installation tool to pull the new rubber valve in place. This tool is only a few dollars and available at any auto parts store. I used water and liquid dish soap for lube to help seal/install the tire valve. These really should be replaced every time you replace your tire. Nuff said
Ive yet to do tire work on a Can Am. The Ryker I rode, I bought it new and sold it after one year passed. All of those tires had plenty of tread so no need to replace. They Spyder I ride now only has approx. 1600 miles so even the rear looks new. Personally, I don’t foresee any problems when it comes time to rep,lace any of the tires on my Spyder. Since the tires (front & rear) are wider then most motorcycle tires I’ve replaced in the past, it will be relatively easy doing the R&R.
I’m running the OEM tires (probably) until they wear out. I know many here don’t care for the OEM Kendas yet I have absolutely no complaints with them. For sure, IMO tires are inexpensive and they can easily be rep,laced with supposed better tires yet the string straight roads I ride on, I find the OEM Kenda tires do just fine. All 3 have delivered excellent wet weather traction so i see no reason to prematurely upgrade. That said I would upgrade my tires if I thought there would be something to gain but at the risk of repeating myself, AFAIC, the OEM Kendas have provided me with high quality traction. However, there is enough chatter to legitimize going dark side when the rear tire wears out
I think i covered everything i wanted to comment on regarding tires. Again, its an easy job to replace & remove, especially tubeless tires on motorcycles and trikes, but I understand the apprehension some have tackling the unknown for the first time. You Tube has many videos for those that are considering doing this work yourself. I didnt have you tube back in the mid seventies so i learned by making mistakes. Then again, i dont blame those that remove the wheels themselves then take the tire & wheel to a shop, yet I can R&R that same tire in less time that it takes passing the work onto someone else
Best,
Jake
Reddick Fla.