Will Charging the Camper's Battery off my Spyder overload the Alternator

[Fatcycledaddy]

Wiring diagram please:2thumbs:

I didn't make one, but I am sure I can draw one up. Do you want the entire thing from battery, bike, to the converter for the lights, to the 7way, then on into the trailer, or just the charging system for the batteries?

 

[Mjhitman]

The charging system for the batteries should be enough. Bike starting battery through the trailer connection to the trailer battery.

Thank you!

 

[Fatcycledaddy]

Needless to say, the 7way is the middle connection in this.

 

[Mjhitman]

Thank you Bert for your concise explanation of how to wire what I'm trying to accomplish. I like your idea of putting the isolator in the trailer before the Aux battery. What type of isolator are you talking about? Do you have a link to what you mean?

 

[Mjhitman]

Looking at your diagram, was wondering what type of charger you are using. I see it is powered by 12v starting battery.

 

[Fatcycledaddy]

No, I just didnt think about drawing in a 120 volt cord to it. If you look at the 2nd set of pics in this link, https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...Classic-mods-1 you will see where the cord plugs into the exterior of the trailer.
The charger is GENIUS10 6V/12V 10-Amp Smart Battery Charger.

 

[Mjhitman]

Ok, so no isolator or relay? I like your system the best!

 

[BertRemington]

Mjhitman -- the primary goal of my solution was failsafe protection of the Spyder's battery charge as Spyder's are fussy about that. The protection relay is a standard 30amp ISO (Bosch) relay and the isolator is a 30amp diode.

Fatcycledaddy's solution is full-featured. However the apparent lack of an isolator diode is concerning

however all I have to do is plug the trailer in and there is a direct fused wire to the Spyder battery. All I would have to do is let it set a bit and it would charge

 

[Fatcycledaddy]

No isolator or relay. If I was tapping into the system somewhere like to the alternator, I would use one or the other. Running right to the battery, all it amounts to is three parallel batteries. Again everything is fused on trailer side and on buke side just in case something goes wrong.
I had one time when the bike battery was low, I plugged in the trailer, let it set about 10 min, and it started right up.
THis can work the wrong way too. After running everything off of the batteries in the trailer for a week, I plugged in the bike and went to take my shower. When I got back the bike battery was so low it wouldn't start. I plugged in the charger for about 20 min and was all set. I have learned that the last thing you do before you tow is to plug in the trailer, start the bike, check all the lights, then roll.

Good luck with your project. I love the way mine works.

 

[Jetfixer]

Your alternator is rated at 90 amps/1200 watts.

 

[Mjhitman]

What is the wire size you used for the bike and trailer?

 

[BertRemington]

Chop up this 16/2 extension cord https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Power-Extension-Resistant-Retardant/dp/B08B7Y1YQ3/

Stranded wires bundled into an abrasion-resistant sheathing.

 

[Mjhitman]

That's good to hear, I have 14awg run so far, so it should be good. Another thing is, what is the link for the relay and diode you recommend? I've been looking out there are so many choices. Thanks!

 

[BajaRon]

Adding one of these isn't a bad idea either. Not promoting this particular brand or model. Just an example of what I mean. Can come in REAL handy. They will charge your phone and jump start your vehicle if all else fails. For the price, they can be a real help when needed. When I carry one, it always seems like someone needs it. Never had to use it on my bike. But I know it's there if needed.

 

[BertRemington]

Here's my solution which doesn't require wire taps/splices. The 3-pin USA foglight connector has the following circuits on the socket side: Pin 1 Gray/Beige Low Beam Pin 2 Black Ground Pin 3 Gray/Green Foglight Prepare an AMP SuperSeal 3-pin jumper as follows:

Plug Pin 1 => Socket Pin 1 and Pin 86 of the Isolation Relay
Plug Pin 2 => Socket Pin 2 and Pin 85 of the Isolation Relay
Plug Pin 3 => Socket Pin 3

Separate the 3-pin connector pair for one of the foglights (right-side has easier access) and install the jumper.

The Spyder-side power circuit is Battery => 30amp ATO/ATC Fuse Holder => Pin 30 Engine-Running Relay
then Pin 87 Engine-Running Relay => 2-pin Trailer connector

The trailer-side power circuit is 2-pin Trailer connector => 30amp ATO/ATC Fuse Holder => Isolation Diode => Trailer Battery

But it's unlikely you have the SuperSeal connectors or crimping tool. They're very handy and easy to fabricate but unless you plan on more additions to your Spyder I'll skip the jumper.

At your local auto store buy a 4- or 5-terminal 30/40amp relay (it's a small square block with spade terminals) and the 30amp inline fuse holders. Splice pins 85 and 86 into the socket (3-wire) side of the fog light connector.

Here's the unhappy part for me. The isolator diode is something every electronics store would have but electronics (and ham radio) stores are almost extinct. So skip the diode. The Engine-Running relay is the superior solution; the diode is redundant protection.

==========

A friend has a SCTA roadster for which I do the wiring including the trailer. I have two breakout boxes, one by the hitch on the truck and one by the hitch on the trailer. Both boxes have LED status lights for all circuits (eg, White for Trailer Power, Blue for Brake Power, etc). Makes fault isolation easy. Except I'm not into faults...

 

[Fatcycledaddy]

What is the wire size you used for the bike and trailer?

I used 10 gauge wire

 

[newdave]

Whew, all this is too complicated for me! No disrespect to all the fine suggestions, but I like to keep it simple.

If all I was doing was charging electronics after a day's ride, I'd just carry a suitably-sized jump pack as suggested by @BajaRon. It can charge in the trunk as you're riding using the existing connection. These have more than enough juice to charge most devices.

 

[Fatcycledaddy]

Whew, all this is too complicated for me! No disrespect to all the fine suggestions, but I like to keep it simple.

If all I was doing was charging electronics after a day's ride, I'd just carry a suitably-sized jump pack as suggested by @BajaRon. It can charge in the trunk as you're riding using the existing connection. These have more than enough juice to charge most devices.

I can agree to a point if all you are doing is charging a phone. However I am using it for lights in the camper and trailer, a 12 volt fan to keep us cool, charging two headsets, two phones, two Thermocell bug repellers, one computer, and sometimes watches. I have yet to find a pack that will do all of that and not be to heavy for the trunk, besides using up trunk space.
Bert's way, although a great and proper solution, is more complicated thatn what the avarage do it your selfer is willing to try. I took a simple inexpensive way that is viable, simple, and has worked on two trailers for a total of about 14 years with not a single problem.
I first did this when towing the trailer with a 1991 Yamaha Venture Royale, known to have a week charging system, but used the same battery as the bike starting battery, with no problems. I then switched to larger batteries in 2015 with the first Spyder.

 

[Mjhitman]

THANK YOU! My point exactly!

 

[Mjhitman]

I can agree to a point if all you are doing is charging a phone. However I am using it for lights in the camper and trailer, a 12 volt fan to keep us cool, charging two headsets, two phones, two Thermocell bug repellers, one computer, and sometimes watches. I have yet to find a pack that will do all of that and not be to heavy for the trunk, besides using up trunk space.
Bert's way, although a great and proper solution, is more complicated thatn what the avarage do it your selfer is willing to try. I took a simple inexpensive way that is viable, simple, and has worked on two trailers for a total of about 14 years with not a single problem.
I first did this when towing the trailer with a 1991 Yamaha Venture Royale, known to have a week charging system, but used the same battery as the bike starting battery, with no problems. I then switched to larger batteries in 2015 with the first Spyder.

THANK YOU! My point exactly!