We recommend the K&N CM-9910 for the Ryker. Especially on the CVT side. That side sucks a lot of air all the time and can get quite dirty in a hurry. If air flow is restricted, it can severely shorten drive belt life. A fairly expensive replacement. The K&N flows more air dirty than the OEM paper filter does clean. The K&N will easily pay for itself many times over on the CVT side.
The engine side, by comparison, draws very little air and lasts a long time. A paper filter on that side is adequate. Changing to a K&N for the engine side will not give any performance improvements. But will, over time, also pay for itself since it doesn't need to be replaced.
Yes. Both sides.Is the K&N CM-9910 filter used on all RYKERs and all years?
All of the Ryker models and years take the same filters. But you can't trust the ads. For example, this is one of the Amazon listings for the CM-9910Thank you, BajaRon. Amazon indicates they only fit early-year models. Updated information is great.
Hiflofiltro HFA6101. I bought the K&N from Ron for the CVT side. I cleaned it numerous times on the Alaska trip.Curious if ya’ll are using BRP’s pricey Ryker air filters, or aftermarket equivalents? If the latter, whose?
TIA
Sorry, meant to answer this some time ago. Distractions! Always the distractions!Ron what is the Air filter for the JT air cleaner on the 2010-2012 RT
We recommend the K&N CM-9910 for the Ryker. Especially on the CVT side. That side sucks a lot of air all the time and can get quite dirty in a hurry. If air flow is restricted, it can severely shorten drive belt life. A fairly expensive replacement. The K&N flows more air dirty than the OEM paper filter does clean. The K&N will easily pay for itself many times over on the CVT side.
The engine side, by comparison, draws very little air and lasts a long time. A paper filter on that side is adequate. Changing to a K&N for the engine side will not give any performance improvements. But will, over time, also pay for itself since it doesn't need to be replaced.
This is the exact opposite of every inspection we've done so far. Are you sure you got the sides correct?Looked at the CVT side filter, and it looked very good, so I left it alone. I do have a K&N filter in the wings for when a replacement is due. I use K&N filters on two of my 2-wheelers, so I do appreciate their value. I may even have one in my Dodge RAM, but I can't remember; I so rarely drive it!
The engine filter didn't look too good, so I swapped it out with an OEM-type.
This is the exact opposite of every inspection we've done so far. Are you sure you got the sides correct?
This is the exact opposite of every inspection we've done so far. Are you sure you got the sides correct?
Anything is possible. Just because we haven't experienced it at that shop doesn't mean I'm going to assume you are wrong. Just thought it worthwhile to ask.I went back out and looked, and can now see where the RH filter has ducting into the CVT housing.
Not sure why I zeroed in on the filters the way I did, but will make the swap tomorrow.
Appreciate the catch, and correction.
It is a good idea to keep an eye on the CVT Filter. Most don't. And with most air filters, it wouldn't be a big deal. But we've seen that CVT filter completely clogged at less than 5,000 miles. Of course, you need to take environment into consideration. But that being said. We've had a few customers come in with burnt up belts, confused as to why it didn't last the expected 10,000+ miles. And then we show them the filter.The CVT filter is new, so will just wait until it gets funky looking, and will swap it out then with the K&N. The original had a little over 5K on it of straight road use, so should expect about the same for this one. That should coincide with the mileage for the belt replacement.