Who's the FRIGGIN' IDIOT???

[boborgera]

Had the same problem once, I use a wrench that I found in my tool box which was on of those small cheap wrench you get with furnitures you have to built at home, I bent the thing till I was able to make it go in behind the opening when the screw is and I was able to connect with the bottom bolt. All went very well and I carry the wrench in the bike tool pouch just in case I need it again.

Now that you bent the wrench, how are you going to tighten your furniture when it loosens ?? :roflblack:

 

[SpydeeBite2]

:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

I'm ready...Where's my GUN???

The Spyder is fixed...I went to Sears got a crowfoot 10mm wrench, tied some fishing line to it (just in case I dropped it) and worked it into the slim narrow inaccessible crevasse...Got it on the nut and tightened the bolt back down...:clap:

Now when and where are we meeting for "Storming the Bastille"? :thumbup:

I am confused! If the slim narrow crevasse was inaccessible how were you able to access it??????????????:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

 

[GeoffCee]

Now that you bent the wrench, how are you going to tighten your furniture when it loosens ?? :roflblack:

You make a good point, sloppy drawers are sure to be noticed in the locker room. pps:

 

[Cuban Spyder]

I installed a battery tender and, like you, I couldn't believe it was a bolt and nut there. After removing the right tupperware panel, I was able to get the 10mm wrench form the tool kit that comes with the :spyder2: and loosen and tighten the bolt with a 10mm socket. The problem I had was holding the nut long enough to start the bolt back in to it. I ended up using a piece of duct tape wrapped sticky side out around a pencil to hold the nut in place long enough to start the bolt into it. Where there is a will, there is a way. Anyway, I got it all back together and vowed NEVER to take that loose again.:bowdown:

 

[ChazChuk24]

Should have read the blog!!!

Yep......I decided to remove the negative battery terminal...before I read the horror stories. :gaah:I just wanted let you ALL know that by reading ALL the posts I was able to get through it. After a crash course in removing the body panels on the right side I was able to figure out how to access the nut and get it re-tightened. After thinking about it for a while and trying a few things that did not work I decided to use a socket organizer. It was flat enough and rigid enough to slide up the angled part of the frame and held the nut tight. Then I just used the socket wrench up top to tighten it. Not much else to add except that everyone should download the operators manual from the web and print out on paper large enough to read. Also this website is a great resource.....couldn't have done it without it.

Thanks,
Chuck:yes:

 

[plescaille]

I went to add a Gerbing heated clothing fuse connector to the wife's Spyder. I found the positive connector and also what looked like a EASY negative connection...Well I loosened the negative bolt and it just kept turning and turning and turning...:banghead:...It's not a pressed in threads for the bolt, NO it's a friggin' nut bolt set up...

Well whoever designed the Spyder was a FRIGGIN' :cus: IDIOT cause there is a nut attached to the chassis and you can't get to it unless you completely DISASSEMBLE the Spyder:helpsmilie:!! Plus to beat this PURE STUPIDITY, the fuse block where the POSITIVE terminates is RIGHT there within millimeters of this negative bolt.:wrong:...FRIGGIN' IDIOT ENGINEERS!! :bdh:

Does anybody know how to get to this nut and tighten it back up??? I tried a wrench, pair of pliers, my fingers, channel locks and I just can't get to it...I can touch it with my fingers, but can't hold onto it to tighten it!!:gaah:

An 11 inch needle nose with a 90 degree turn will do the trick quite nicely.:yes: I bought mine at pep boys but you can get most anywhere.

 

[rcturner]

Yep......I decided to remove the negative battery terminal...before I read the horror stories. :gaah:I just wanted let you ALL know that by reading ALL the posts I was able to get through it. After a crash course in removing the body panels on the right side I was able to figure out how to access the nut and get it re-tightened. After thinking about it for a while and trying a few things that did not work I decided to use a socket organizer. It was flat enough and rigid enough to slide up the angled part of the frame and held the nut tight. Then I just used the socket wrench up top to tighten it. Not much else to add except that everyone should download the operators manual from the web and print out on paper large enough to read. Also this website is a great resource.....couldn't have done it without it.

Thanks,
Chuck:yes:

My RT has a short jumper wire going from the problem bolt to a chassis ground that is easily accessible (easy for a Spyder). Getting the ground from this point is no problem. The issue is that it is not easily noticeable. This jumper is only a couple of inches from the problem bolt.

 

[Bob Denman]

An 11 inch needle nose with a 90 degree turn will do the trick quite nicely.:yes: I bought mine at pep boys but you can get most anywhere.

Is there any chance that you could throw a picture of this magical problem solver up here for those of us who don't think like mechanics? :shocked:

Thanks! :thumbup:

 

[kyspyder]

Picture as requested!

KYSPYDERView attachment 56388

 

[Dragonrider]

Got caught on that one too - I drilled a hole in the ground strap and used a self tapping screw to hold the charging ground, as well as add another grounding point. We'll see if it holds.

 

[Bob Denman]

Picture as requested!

KYSPYDERView attachment 56388

BEAUTY!! :2thumbs:

Thanks again!

 

[zbunker]

Amen.

Chris

Chris, you have to understand how the Spyder was first designed. Pretty much the same way Fords were.

:joke: Once upon a time there were a bunch of engineers sitting around getting their brains twisted on whatever their drug of choice was.
:crackpipe:

Then one of them said, Hey, Let's invent a bunch of weird and wacky tools.

And they did.

After they made a bunch of these tools, they sat around for a second round of whatever got their brains twisted in the first place, wondering what to do with these tools. :chat:
That was when one of the engineers said, " Hey, why don't we build a car with these special tools?

And they did.

And they named it FORD. [Check any service manual for their list of 'special tools']
(The generic special tool for Fords are a pair of vise grips and a hammer.:sour

BUT THEN......

Not to be out done, a couple of the engineers who came from Canada said, Not only can we make wacky tools, ours will be metric and we will build a three wheeled motor machine :spyder: that NO ONE can work on.:banghead:

And they did.

AND THE DEALERS LIVED HAPPILY EVER AFTER :cus:

Ron

 

[tdoug60]

Amen

And while you're "storming" find the idiot who's responsible for the placement of the rear tire valve!

Amen is all I have to say about that. And check out the gas station air pump end before paying $.75 for air!

 

[Magdave]

Any reason not to solder a wire to the post? Just sayin.... OMG took me 30sec to pull the left panel and see the wire running from the jumper ground and traced it to a terminal that attaches just above the oil reservoir( Coil Pack?) with a simple nut. There is your ground point.

 

[gazunni]

Made the same mistake and after making, I read many warnings in this forum about leaving that bolt alone.

If you have a tool with a sharp bent end like a pair of needle noose players with the bent end or a screwdriver with a bent end you may be able to get enough leverage to stop it from the turning. Also try using the friction on the bottom side by lifting up on the nut while using a socket to turn it. It is possible to get a small screw driver on the bottom side of the exposed nut while lifting it up and simultaneously tighting the socket.

Good luck.

I went to add a Gerbing heated clothing fuse connector to the wife's Spyder. I found the positive connector and also what looked like a EASY negative connection...Well I loosened the negative bolt and it just kept turning and turning and turning...:banghead:...It's not a pressed in threads for the bolt, NO it's a friggin' nut bolt set up...

Well whoever designed the Spyder was a FRIGGIN' :cus: IDIOT cause there is a nut attached to the chassis and you can't get to it unless you completely DISASSEMBLE the Spyder:helpsmilie:!! Plus to beat this PURE STUPIDITY, the fuse block where the POSITIVE terminates is RIGHT there within millimeters of this negative bolt.:wrong:...FRIGGIN' IDIOT ENGINEERS!! :bdh:

Does anybody know how to get to this nut and tighten it back up??? I tried a wrench, pair of pliers, my fingers, channel locks and I just can't get to it...I can touch it with my fingers, but can't hold onto it to tighten it!!:gaah:

 

[ARtraveler]

Originally posted 10/7/2011. ldpost:

 

[radfart]

Nut also loose

The nut was loose on my 2012 RT, on the ground jumper terminal. Took the panels off the right side, wrapped a 10 mm wrench with electrical tape and was able to reach in and get it on the nut. Thanks for the info on here.

 

[AbNormy]

:thumbup:

From Deep in the Hart of Texas!

 

[firstshirt]

rear tire valve

i had an extra rear tire valve EXTENDER that i now tread on the valve that gives me extra length to both check the tire pressure and add more air if needed. Works great! YOU MUST REMEMBER TO REMOVE IT BEFORE YOU MOVE THE BIKE. Still need to get down on knees to put on , but for me it is now easier.

 

[Spyderific]

I loosened the ground bolt just as I remembered reading about what not to do. Oh well. I took a 10 mm open end wrench and bent it 90 degrees and slid it on the nut and tightened it back up. Easily done.