Which wire color runs the Hi beam shutter control?

[bluestratos]

I am looking at the schematic for a 2011 RT and believe it will be the same for the 2014 as it relates to the high beam switch. I need to tap into the control wire for high beam which I know controls the shutter in the head lamps. Anyone able to identify the correct color wire in the harness coming from the high beam? Sure appreciate it if you can,

Randy

 

[billybovine]

Looking at the 2013 wiring diagram for CAN/US the shutter is powered by the solid gray. Energised when on High beam. The bulb is powered by a gray with beige strip. As per usual black is ground.

 

[Bob Denman]

Blue...
What are you playing with??

 

[va2djd]

I think it's with a door opener?

 

[bluestratos]

Lol.. no my Denial lights, they have a built in hi/low beam circuit so I want to have them switch on with my high beams per the plan. Thanks for the info on the wire color, I should be able to pick it up in the harness as it exits the handle bars where it disconnects.

 

[lookerjdc]

Lol.. no my Denial lights, they have a built in hi/low beam circuit so I want to have them switch on with my high beams per the plan. Thanks for the info on the wire color, I should be able to pick it up in the harness as it exits the handle bars where it disconnects.

were you able to install your Denali lights using these two wires?

and, where did you route your wires?

are these wires connected to the fuse box or did you have to go digging to locate them?


thanks in advance

 

[NancysToy]

The wire running to the switch is gray/red. It runs to the relay, which feeds the bulbs and shutters. Please note that unlike a typical hi-lo circuit, the bulb feed is hot continuously. If your Denalis need to switch from hi to low, instead of just adding a second set of LEDs as the second circuit kicks in, you'll need to rig a relay to flip-flop the feed.

 

[bluestratos]

I already have a custom designed fuse panel located in the right access panel (where the old oil fill used to be) so I ran the wire harness they provide under the upper A-arms and then to my fuse panel and ground bar. The switch runs up and under the plastic cover on the back of the handle bar then made a small notch to allow it to pop out (you can not see it as it is at the bottom and behind the main handle bar frame.


Question to Nancy's toy...the shutter is controlled by the grey red? The Denali's have a hot all the time low beam then the Hi beam is added to go highn beam. Lets say yellow and white (can't recall for sure right now). The white is wired to a source that is hot on ignition and is not switched. Yellow goes to the high beam circuit, in this case the shutter control. I gather you suggest I install relay to be triggered by the shutter wire that will then power the high beam. I built two spare mini relays into my new fuse panel so I am good to go if that is the case.


Interesting to note that the units draw less than 2 amps in total when operating on high.

 

[NancysToy]

I already have a custom designed fuse panel located in the right access panel (where the old oil fill used to be) so I ran the wire harness they provide under the upper A-arms and then to my fuse panel and ground bar. The switch runs up and under the plastic cover on the back of the handle bar then made a small notch to allow it to pop out (you can not see it as it is at the bottom and behind the main handle bar frame.


Question to Nancy's toy...the shutter is controlled by the grey red? The Denali's have a hot all the time low beam then the Hi beam is added to go highn beam. Lets say yellow and white (can't recall for sure right now). The white is wired to a source that is hot on ignition and is not switched. Yellow goes to the high beam circuit, in this case the shutter control. I gather you suggest I install relay to be triggered by the shutter wire that will then power the high beam. I built two spare mini relays into my new fuse panel so I am good to go if that is the case.


Interesting to note that the units draw less than 2 amps in total when operating on high.

The switch (GY/RD) flops the hi-lo headlamp relay (R8). The relay energizes/de-energizes the shutter (GY) on North American Spyders. If the Denalis are additive and draw that little amperage, I'd probably run the hi beam side directly from the gray shutter wire, unless you prefer to power it through your panel, which would then require a relay pulled in by the gray wire. Keep in mind that I am just guessing at this because of the diagram and what you have told us. Some experimentation is probably in order.

 

[billybovine]

The switch (GY/RD) flops the hi-lo headlamp relay (R8). The relay energizes/de-energizes the shutter (GY) on North American Spyders. If the Denalis are additive and draw that little amperage, I'd probably run the hi beam side directly from the gray shutter wire, unless you prefer to power it through your panel, which would then require a relay pulled in by the gray wire. Keep in mind that I am just guessing at this because of the diagram and what you have told us. Some experimentation is probably in order.

Scotty I am curious what year of wiring diagram you are looking at. The 2013 RT wiring diagram shows the switch wire as GN/RD. The main headlamp relay as RFB R5 The high beam relay as RFB R1 and the low beam relay as RFB R2.

 

[lookerjdc]

thats why I am, watching this thread and the other: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?64672-Denali-Driving-lights-Install-on-2014RT

I'm watching all you folks who know more than I do and hoping someone knows the answer to doing the install without having to use something like the relay Trickie Dick is talking about in the other thread, http://www.lights.skenedesign.com/IQ_175.shtml, altho if that is a requirement, where does that get hooked into the wiring system on the bike? Off the main fuse panel or does it require removing the frunk?

 

[NancysToy]

Scotty I am curious what year of wiring diagram you are looking at. The 2013 RT wiring diagram shows the switch wire as GN/RD. The main headlamp relay as RFB R5 The high beam relay as RFB R1 and the low beam relay as RFB R2.

I suspected that possibility, and warned that I was looking at an older diagram in the other post. Sorry I didn't qualify it here. The new wiring with dual fuse boxes up front is bound to be different. The diagram for the particular vehicle in question needs to be consulted. The principles remain the same. Sorry if I led anyone astray.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

blue,
Assuming your bike light wiring is the same as the '13 RT the shutter power is gray, as NancysToy said. I think the easiest place to catch that wire is at one of the headlights. Each headlight has a 5 pin connector with gray for the shutter, gray/beige for low beam which is powered all the time as NancysToy said, and black for ground. The left headlight connector has an additional brown/white and brown/violet wiring coming into it from the headlight relay. The headlight side of the connector has a brown/white jumper that connects the two brown/ wires. That is what keeps the bulb element powered all the time via the low beam wire.

You should be quite OK to just tap into the gray wire for your Denali lights with no additional relays needed. I added a headlight modulator to my bike and in the process changed the bulb feed to come off either the high or low beam wires. The high beam, gray, wire handles the OEM bulb load with no problem.