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Where do you jack the Spyder Up?
- Thread starter sledge
- Start date
Mikey
Well-known member
Be careful lifting that front and use jack stands or two jacks if you are taking both tires off at the same time, if you jack the front up from the frame and don't put jack stands under both sides it will tip when you take the wheel off because it will not be balanced. Good luck!!
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Tonylmiller
New member
I have not looked under there yet, but I am going to check my front spring adjustment. Where to put jack stands if jacking from the center? Pictures are encouraged.
Great forum, thanks in advance.
Use some wood blocking under the rear shock.
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sledge
New member
Thanks for the Pictures. I saved them, for the next time maybe.
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Little Blue
SpyderLovers Ambassador
That's the way I do it. Nice pictures of what is needed for blocking. ....:thumbup:
See pictures in post #24.
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Tonylmiller
New member
Perfect. Thanks.
Peteoz
Well-known member
Bensonoid, this is in no way, shape or form, a critique, as I simply don’t know the answer. BRP say in their shop manuals not to place your lift under the rear shock, only the under frame. Does this not count as placing your lift under the rear shock?
Pete
Tonylmiller
New member
Seems strange to me, but I do not see any mention in the user manual of how to lift the Spyder. It says to lift it but not how or where, that I can find.
sledge
New member
I think as a Mechanic, because I did only that for more than half of my working life, the more I got into removing this Rear Wheel the more I could see what I Should have done. This might not be what Can-Am would ever say to do. But I have owned 5 Honda Goldwings in a row in last 15 years or so. Not many things are bigger, bulkier, or heavier than a Goldwing. I put all the tires on myself, I bought a MotorCycle Jack and never trusted that thing at all. Sooo, I dug 4 holes in the ground and put 4 4X4 posts in the holes with concrete; 2 about 2 foot high and the other 2 about 6 feet high; with an Eye Bolt near the top of each; and I would hook a Come-a-long at the top of the tall posts and hook the other end to the Crash Bars of which ever end of the Wing I wanted to pick up and ties down the other end with ratchet straps to make sure it couldn't fall over. I could pick the bike up as high as I wanted and the bike could never fall over, or fall at all! As for my Spyder, the other day it was a real handful trying to get it high enough to get the rear wheel under the rear fender and out. In the end, I hooked a wide ratchet strap through the rear rider hand holds and across a Rafter in my Garage; picked it right up! At my age and with the 70,000 mile car tires I just put on it, I most likely will never do this again anyway, but if I do, I will do it just like I did my Goldwings. Thanks to everyone for all the advice. This is a great site, I hope to meet some of you folks for a ride someday. Thanks again.
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Peteoz
Well-known member
I don’t think they believe that a rider should be looking to lift the vehicle, Tony, which is why it wouldn’t be in the Operator Guide. It does however appear in the Workshop Manual.:thumbup:
Pete
sledge
New member
I was talking with the guy at the tire shop who changed my 2 front tires today, and we both kinda said the same thing about why would anyone design and build anything so hard to do something as simple as changing a tire? Unless it was just to make sure the owner would bring it back to the Dealership; because IF you are the only place to get a job done then the price is an Open Book - No Competition, charge anything you want. That's Just a Thought, and I sure didn't know what I was doing, you folks helped me a Lot. Thank You All.
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EKB2to3Wheelz
New member
Those pictures for the jackstands were great. I’d hope that despite the posting about supporting on the shock bolt it would be ok to use a 2x4 across the mount to a jack stand. Seems to me that the shock bolt is supporting all the weight sitting on the ground then it shouldn’t be stressed as a support for a jack stand if using the frame to lift and the rear shock mount to support on a stand. I’ve got a factory shop manual, but I need to see if I can find the warning about using the rear shock for supporting the Spyder. It supports it when riding and the shock's involved there, this should be less stress.
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AeroPilot
Member
For just working on the brakes or rear wheel area the floor jack works for me. Like others have said, it's good to have a stand or blocking to further ensure that the bike is stable. I also religiously use a rubber pad between the jack and the metal box frame piece so that it doesn't slip off. I once had that happen on our first 2011 RT, and I vowed to never have it unbalanced again!!
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Peteoz
Well-known member
Believe me, there is indeed a warning in the shop manual about not using the rear shock as a jacking point, EKB2. You could end up with damage if you simply put a bottle jack or similar under the centre, so BRP are covering their backsides here.
However, there are quite a few who have used a 2x4 underneath as their jack point with no adverse effects as you mention above.
Pete
JayBros
Well-known member
The reason there is a warning in the shop manual is because BRP's lowest common denominator in this case is for someone with the IQ of NitWit the Knuckle Dragger who would put the jack he is using directly under the shock itself and if he does so without using a block of wood under the ears that protrude downward from where they are welded to the swing arm and then jacks the Spyder he will bend the bolt that holds the shock. Then when NWKD then attempts to remove the shock for some reason in the future he will discover he can't remove the bent bolt.
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Gunner3773
Member
I use an EZcarlift to lift my Spyder.
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