Where Are Battery Posts on 2012 RT?

[solidgranite]

I need to jump start my 2012 RT SE5, but the picture in the user's manual does not point out where the battery posts really are! Can someone post a pic, or give me a specific location of the positive battery post? The 2012 RT battery is under the seat, not in the frunk like the 2013's. I can hook the negative cable to the frame as ground, but the positive post location is not "obvious", and I don't want to fry anything. I believe the positive post can be accessed without removing the plastic battery cover, and that would be ideal for a quick jump start!

 

[davev1pa]

Images

 

[solidgranite]

Thanks for trying, but the images didn't come through. Would you try again? Thanks!

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Page 139 in the operators manual, which you’re already seeing. Under the seat. Same place you hook up a charger. Ground on the right side, positive on the left. Those two locations under the seat are a connection to the battery posts by only a short length of cable. You won’t fry anything there. But if you’re that worried, put it on a 2 amp charge overnight.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

So, SG. Are you home or stuck someplace. Here's the best I have if you really want to jump it. It's 4* out there. I'm not going to go take a picture. Left side, under the seat. It's the battery connection side of the solenoid - the one with the long nut on it. Arrow number 4. You even might still have the red plastic cover over it. Just pull it off. Long nut so you can get the alligator clip on it. But if you're home, just use the charger.

 

[Eviltwin]

This is from a 2010, should be the same. Tupperware is off, its on the left side facing forward about the same distance back as the beginning of the rear saddle box.

 

[solidgranite]

Thanks again. I've located the positive post for the positive jumper cable, and will hook the negative jumper cable to a metal part of the frame. Hopefully that will do the trick.

 

[solidgranite]

Thanks! I've located the positive port with the long nut, and can clamp the positive cable to that while I clamp the negative cable to the frame or some heavy metal. Yes, I'm at home (thank God!), and it's in the hi 20's, so I'll wait until tomorrow to try a jump start. LOL

 

[solidgranite]

Its slightly different on the 2012, but I've found the positive post, and will try the jump start tomorrow. Thanks!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Its slightly different on the 2012, but I've found the positive post, and will try the jump start tomorrow. Thanks!

If you using the battery in your car/trk ..... I recommend NOT HAVING THE VEHICLE RUNNING ...... that battery is likely to be twicw as powerfulas your OEM was ..... jmho .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[solidgranite]

If you using the battery in your car/trk ..... I recommend NOT HAVING THE VEHICLE RUNNING ...... that battery is likely to be twicw as powerfulas your OEM was ..... jmho .... Mike :thumbup:

Good suggestion. I'll give that a try tomorrow. I have some long and thick jumper cables that will reach. I tried jumping it today with a Halo device...12V, 600 amps...and got nothing. I did notice that the MPH gauge and tach were "stuck" at the 12 o'clock position, and didn't move at all when I tried the jump. None of the instruments lit up, but the fender lights came on, and the emergency flashers worked when I push their button. I've had the Spyder on a battery tender all winter (through the port in the back compartment), and I start it at least once or twice a week. Never a problem...until now. If it doesn't start with jumpers from my truck, I'll start investigating fuses, etc. Its never done anything like this before, and the battery is only a year or two old.

 

[solidgranite]

After unsuccessful efforts to jump start my RT, I think I have either a completely DEAD AS A DOORNAIL battery, or a bad fuse somewhere along the line. With the jumper cables hooked up (with the truck engine off), and the key in the Spyder and turned to start position, there was absolutely no reaction...the tach and speedo needles were at the 12 o'clock position (normal is 6 o'clock position), and the main "screen" never lit up. Zip, zero, nada. nil... I'm too far away from the Spyder shop, so I'll try to remove the battery, and check it with a multi-meter. I've never removed a battery from a Spyder, but I know there are some instructional vids out there. I hope a new battery will resolve the starting issue. I don't want to have to get involved with the electronics!

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

So, do the tach and speedo needles return to 6 o’clock once you turn off the key?

Anyway, keep in mind that your fender lights worked, and I bet if you step on your brake pedal, that you have good brake lights. You have a multimeter, so just check the battery voltage in place, right there under the seat where you just hooked up. Compare key off to key on. Make sure you have a good ground for your meter leads. The ground bolt is over there on the right. You’ve described a situation where it seems like the instrument cluster started it’s startup sweep and halted in the middle. Can’t recall ever hearing of that.

Owners manual will direct you to which fuses to test that relate to the instrument cluster. Or just test them all. Test them, not just look at them. Push on all of the relays to ensure they are fully seated. And of course, if it’s been sitting for awhile, there are always critters. If you become convinced that you have to remove the battery, Finless made a pretty good video:

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?77494-Replacing-the-battery-on-a-2010-2012-RT

 

[solidgranite]

So, do the tach and speedo needles return to 6 o’clock once you turn off the key?

Anyway, keep in mind that your fender lights worked, and I bet if you step on your brake pedal, that you have good brake lights. You have a multimeter, so just check the battery voltage in place, right there under the seat where you just hooked up. Compare key off to key on. Make sure you have a good ground for your meter leads. The ground bolt is over there on the right. You’ve described a situation where it seems like the instrument cluster started it’s startup sweep and halted in the middle. Can’t recall ever hearing of that.

Owners manual will direct you to which fuses to test that relate to the instrument cluster. Or just test them all. Test them, not just look at them. Push on all of the relays to ensure they are fully seated. And of course, if it’s been sitting for awhile, there are always critters. If you become convinced that you have to remove the battery, Finless made a pretty good video:

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?77494-Replacing-the-battery-on-a-2010-2012-RT

When I put in the key and turned it to the start position, the needles spun from bottom to top, and stayed there. The center display didn't light up at all. Normally, the needles spin up to top, then return to bottom, and the center display lights up. The needles didn't move at all when I tried jump starting...still at top, and the center display did not come on. I will check the fuses for sure. I know how to tell if the colored fuses are bad, but how do I tell if the black box type fuses are good or bad? I don't think critters have been a problem this year but the abnormally low temps, in the teens overnight, might have flattened the battery. I've had a battery tender hooked up all winter, and its indicator shows the battery at full charge, so something is screwy for sure! I'll post what I find with the fuses. Thanks for the help!

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Those square black box things in the front fuse box are your relays. They’re not fuses. You can push on them, though, to make sure they are fully seated in their sockets, or if you prefer, pull them out to make sure the pins are clean, and then reinstall. You also have colored square fuses in the fuse panel under the seat. Descriptions of which fuses do what is in your manual. You can put your multimeter on the battery terminals under the seat for a quick check of battery voltage. Positive test lead on that long nut, negative lead to ground. What’s it read?

 

[solidgranite]

Those square black box things in the front fuse box are your relays. They’re not fuses. You can push on them, though, to make sure they are fully seated in their sockets, or if you prefer, pull them out to make sure the pins are clean, and then reinstall. You also have colored square fuses in the fuse panel under the seat. Descriptions of which fuses do what is in your manual. You can put your multimeter on the battery terminals under the seat for a quick check of battery voltage. Positive test lead on that long nut, negative lead to ground. What’s it read?

I checked all the fuses, both in the frunk and under the seat. I pulled each one, examined it, and reseated it firmly. All were okay, and none were burned out. I also pulled relays in the frunk, one by one, and reseated them. I couldn't see any issues with them, but don't know how to test them. The multimeter read 12.65V on positive post and ground on the battery. I also tried my spare key just in case the first key had gotten "burned out" or something. No difference. The brake lights work with the key turn on or off. So do the 4 way flashers and the fender lights. But the headlights do not come on regardless of key position.

Could it be a bad relay? Is there a way to test them?

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Well, everything that you've described about the lights is normal. The headlights don't come on until after the engine starts. And that's certainly enough battery voltage to boot up your electronics - I trust that you took a reading with the key on, to check that the voltage didn't drop like a rock.

Although it does not happen frequently, yes, relays do sometimes fail. We try to narrow down which relay may have failed by first looking at what works and what doesn't. For example, when you turn on the key with the kill switch in RUN - or turn on the key and then flip the kill switch to RUN whichever you normally do. If you hear the fuel pump running, that tells you that relay R7 is OK. If it doesn't run, it could be that relay or other things, but if it works, then the relay works.

Additionally, most of the relays are identical and are interchangeable. So for example, relay R1 is used for your air compressor. For a moment, we can assume that this relay is good. Relay R3 appears to feed power to your instrument cluster and analog gauges - if you have those. Both of these are the same, 4-pin relays. What is typically done in order to narrow things down would be that you remove relay R1, remove relay R3, and replace it with the R1 relay. Turn on the key and see if anything changes. If not, put things back the way they were. If everything starts working, you know that the relay that was in the R3 position is bad. Take it to the auto-parts store of your choice and get a replacement. Put the new one back in whichever slot you want. I think that you get the idea.

Ultimately, you're getting to the point where you could benefit from a repair manual. Downloadable. 25 bucks. And try to keep an open mind concerning critter damage. Everything worked the last time you started it. Good luck.

https://canammanuals.com/can-am-spyder-manual.htm

 

[solidgranite]

Well, everything that you've described about the lights is normal. The headlights don't come on until after the engine starts. And that's certainly enough battery voltage to boot up your electronics - I trust that you took a reading with the key on, to check that the voltage didn't drop like a rock.

Although it does not happen frequently, yes, relays do sometimes fail. We try to narrow down which relay may have failed by first looking at what works and what doesn't. For example, when you turn on the key with the kill switch in RUN - or turn on the key and then flip the kill switch to RUN whichever you normally do. If you hear the fuel pump running, that tells you that relay R7 is OK. If it doesn't run, it could be that relay or other things, but if it works, then the relay works.

Additionally, most of the relays are identical and are interchangeable. So for example, relay R1 is used for your air compressor. For a moment, we can assume that this relay is good. Relay R3 appears to feed power to your instrument cluster and analog gauges - if you have those. Both of these are the same, 4-pin relays. What is typically done in order to narrow things down would be that you remove relay R1, remove relay R3, and replace it with the R1 relay. Turn on the key and see if anything changes. If not, put things back the way they were. If everything starts working, you know that the relay that was in the R3 position is bad. Take it to the auto-parts store of your choice and get a replacement. Put the new one back in whichever slot you want. I think that you get the idea.

Ultimately, you're getting to the point where you could benefit from a repair manual. Downloadable. 25 bucks. And try to keep an open mind concerning critter damage. Everything worked the last time you started it. Good luck.

https://canammanuals.com/can-am-spyder-manual.htm

Great info! Thank You! I replaced the two large relays (left and right sides) in the frunk fuse case, and when I tried the key in start position, the needles came back to normal position, and the center gauge came on. Still no start. I'm going to try your suggestion with the smaller black relays...pulling them and changing their positions to see if it will start. While I have them all removed, I plan to "clean out" the slots with compressed air to blow away any dirt, dust or moisture that may have gotten in there. If no joy, I'll look into replacing all of the smaller black relays. Also, since "regular fuses" are relatively cheap, I'm considering changing all of them for new ones...in both fuse locations (frunk and under the seat). I will certainly consider buying a repair manual. The challenge is that I have limited tools, and have to work outside (no garage or covered area). Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and advice! It's much appreciated.

 

[JKMSPYDER]

It is still possible that you have a bad battery. I had a battery go bad after a year although I always used a tender. Much to my astonishment, the tender I was using was for lead acid batteries only and my battery was AGM! So I had unknowingly been shortening the battery life. I had to buy a new tender along with a new battery. My new tender has the circuit to distinguish between a lead acid or AGM battery.

 

[solidgranite]

THE UNBELIEVABLE HAS HAPPENED! My Spyder STARTED with no issues at all! After replacing the two large relays yesterday, I tried starting it, and got nothing. This afternoon, I went out to do try some small relay swapping for fault isolation, but figured I'd try to start the bike before beginning. The self-check ran, and it started immediately. I shut it down, pulled the key, and then put the key back in and started it again. It started immediately again. I am, as the Brits say, gobsmacked! I took it for a 5 mile drive, came home and shut it down. The I put the key in, it went through its normal self-check routine, then started right up. I'm still considering swapping out all the colored fuses for new ones, and I'll take a look into replacing the small black relays. But right now, I'm in shock. LOL

My sincere thanks to all who helped me with this problem. You folks are the best.