• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

when you replace the rear tire

All I found was some other links regarding reducing torque for wet or oiled fittings. They suggest reducing the spec dry torque by 10-25% depending on source. They also note that torque should not be reduced if Loctite or similar is applied, but it just doesn't feel right:bowdown:

:dontknow:

http://raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html




http://www.antiseize.com/pdf/torque_specifications.pdf

Here's a page with a diagram showing the components of the torque in tightening nuts and bolts. A small change in turning friction can cause a huge change in the stretching component, which can have a tremendous impact on the tightness and safety of the bolt.
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/tighten.htm

The chart here shows how the recommended torque varies widely based on the strength of the steel in the fastener.
http://www.portlandbolt.com/technical/bolt-torque-chart/

These variables show why it is important to pay attention to the manual specifications. It's easy to over torque or under torque a fastener. Put too great a torque on soft steel you'll have failure. Put insufficient torque on high strength steel fastener and you can have a failure.
 
A bit of trivia in relation to torque. I don't remember exactly, but the bolts that hold down the head on the vessel that contains a nuclear reactor are something on the order of 5" or 6" diameter and 3' or 4' long. Those are bolts you DO NOT want to not hold! You can imagine what a challenge it would be to properly torque bolts like those. So instead they clamp onto the end of them with a hydraulic puller and stretch the bolt to it's required tension. Then they just simply spin the nuts snug and release the stretcher. Those bolts now hold very tightly! :thumbup:

You torque a nut not to make sure it stays on, but to make sure the fastener is clamping the pieces sufficiently!
 
Bob sorry to burst your bubble but the reason I asked was because my manual says 91-101ft pounds. Just curious why you think you are one of six who think your the only ones the read the manual. Obviously you just have to show that you are not too bright. Now if you can explain in detail why a 2014 is different I will listen.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 
"Not too bright"? :shocked::hun:
You can do better than that; can't you? :D


What bike do you have? :dontknow:
What MY manual says is correct for MY bike; is 155 to 177 ft/lbs...
I just double-checked it, because there is always the chance that I misread it...

...I didn't. :thumbup:

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