Wheel/tire re-installation ... follow up questions

[VStarRider]

I removed the rear wheel from my '15 ST-S, had a new tire mounted, and re-installed everything over the weekend.

Now that I am done, I have some questions I am hoping someone "in the know" can answer:

1. I cannot get a 36 mm socket / torque wrench on the axle nut - not enough space even when jacked under the frame (exhaust in the way). I locked a pair of Vise Grips on the nut, held it, and tightened the bolt (clutch side) to 150+ lbs (my torque wrench only goes to 150).

Is tightening the bolt (clutch side) to 150+ sufficient, or do I definitely need to tighten nut to that spec?

2. The axle adjuster on the left is 100% tight after re-install - does not budge. The right (brake) side moves a little ... not loose by any means ... but if I try to move it, it will move slightly. How do I tighten that adjuster so it is snug, or should I just forget about it?

3. My belt was at about 4mm from the sprocket flange after installation. After a 10 mile ride, it is now about 1 mm from the flange. I know this is in spec, but it is very close to the flange. Is this ok?

Thanks...

 

[Bfromla]

Almost same boat gotta double check wrench
Found this in my notes unknown provider but was copy/paste from here:

Rear axle nut:
From BRP
Since 2013, the torque spec for the rear axle nut has been increased to 166 lbs/ft on all models. So this is the value we should be using.

Additional info Not copy/paste
Belt (able to fit/swipe a credit card between belt & flange)
See other threads on adjustments
Do believe a boxed in wrench will fit & hold better than the vice grips While reaching torque.
Did you inspect the 3bearings ? ( :sour: my current boat)

 

[cptjam]

Good for you to DIY! Tips:
1. 1 clamp and 1 bolt hold the muffler on. Remove. Takes 5 minutes, saves 30-60. 150# is fine.
2. Loosen axle nut, tap on axle to snug up adjuster, tighten. Use a rubber mallet.
3. Jack up rear. Spin tire with bike in neutral. 10 revolutions forward, 10 backwards. No more than 3/16” travel, and never on the shoulder, or, proud of the edge. Loosen nut, turn 1 flat, snug axle, spin. You gotta play around. Tighten one flat, loosen the other side 1 flat. Be patient. Spin every adjustment. You will get it!

 

[pegasus1300]

I use a 36 mm box end wrench on the muffler side but may also consider removing the muffler the next time( thanks Joe). I use a ratcheting tie down strap thru the wheel and around the passenger floorboard to snug up the wheel and hold it tight. My wrench also only goes to 150 and I find it to be plenty

 

[cptjam]

Even with removing the muffler, personal best to remove the rear wheel is 22 min. Putting it back takes longer.

 

[EdMat]

Instead of completely removing the muffler I loosened the front clamp, swung the muffler out to the side and retightened clamp enuff to hold it in place until I was done.

 

[WilcoJunoHotel]

On my 2020RT I found that the belt almost always moved inwards after final tightening (2 tire changes). So I now try to get the belt as close to the middle of the sprocket before final torque: After a brief test ride, it moved to about 5mm from the inside flange. YMMV.

There is a "dance" that you must play with the right side axle nut and the axle nut adjuster screw to get the belt "just so". There are a couple of good youtube videos which show the process. A dead blow hammer, a cut-in-half 36mm open end wrench and a shorty 36mm socket will be useful. I bought the 36mm wrench from Northern Tool ($20) and the socket from Amazon ($12). You can cut the wrench in half with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel.

If you did not loosen the left hand adjuster screw, you should be able to get the belt exactly where it was before the wheel was removed with just the dead blow hammer, wrench and socket but the two times I have done it I had to move the right hand adjuster screw to get the belt where I wanted it on the pulley.

I would be willing to bet that even the best BRP repair shop doesn't always get the belt right because it takes some time to play with it to get it right and they are on the clock.

 

[Ex-Rocket]

....... I would be willing to bet that even the best BRP repair shop doesn't always get the belt right because it takes some time to play with it to get it right and they are on the clock.

and on your dollar

 

[Peteoz]

Almost same boat gotta double check wrench
Found this in my notes unknown provider but was copy/paste from here:

Rear axle nut:
From BRP
Since 2013, the torque spec for the rear axle nut has been increased to 166 lbs/ft on all models. So this is the value we should be using.

My workshop manual shows the figure of 166 lbs/ft, Bfromia, but it includes a 10% (or maybe 10 lbs/ft) variance. 150 lbs/ft is fine :thumbup:

Pete

 

[Bfromla]

Even with removing the muffler, personal best to remove the rear wheel is 22 min. Putting it back takes longer.

:clap::congrats:

 

[VStarRider]

Thanks for the replies and good suggestions. I will try the ratchet strap idea on the right side of the axle, as suggested by Pegasus. Hopefully that holds it enough in the correct place while I crank down on the axle.

So - just following up - is applying ~150 ft lbs to axle bolt head on the left equivalent to applying 150 ft lbs to the nut on the right? If so, I am all set and do not need to move the muffler. Please let me know.

I wanna ride the Spyder to work tomorrow (75 mile round trip). Is it ok to ride it prior to making these tiny, tiny adjustments?

 

[WilcoJunoHotel]

So - just following up - is applying ~150 ft lbs to axle bolt head on the left equivalent to applying 150 ft lbs to the nut on the right?

Without getting into theory of whether it will provide the same torque reading, if it was my Spyder I would drop the muffler and torque the right side nut as indicated in the BRP service manual.

Is it ok to ride it prior to making these tiny, tiny adjustments?

Not sure what you mean here by "tiny adjustments" - You should have the rear wheel at final torque value before riding the bike for even a short test ride because it might move on you during the ride and you will be back to square one.

Is the muffler that hard to move out of the way on a '15 ST? :dontknow: I have to jack the rear of my 2020RT up to drop the muffler but I do this with a floor jack so it is not really an issue for me.

 

[VStarRider]

Without getting into theory of whether it will provide the same torque reading, if it was my Spyder I would drop the muffler and torque the right side nut as indicated in the BRP service manual.


Not sure what you mean here by "tiny adjustments" - You should have the rear wheel at final torque value before riding the bike for even a short test ride because it might move on you during the ride and you will be back to square one.

Is the muffler that hard to move out of the way on a '15 ST? :dontknow: I have to jack the rear of my 2020RT up to drop the muffler but I do this with a floor jack so it is not really an issue for me.

I am inclined to agree with you on torquing the nut rather than the bolt. I just bought a 36mm wrench and socket to do so. As for dropping the muffler to clear access to the nut, I have not looked yet. Others have noted it is easy.

As for tiny adjustments, I am referring to the brake side adjuster being a little loose (very little, not the axle. The axle prolly needs to be moved forward another 1mm or less to tighten up the adjuster, which I will do in coming days.

 

[WilcoJunoHotel]

BTW, getting the 166 ft-lb torque is a lot easier with a torque wrench that is at least 2 feet long.

I have one that is about 16" long (1/2" drive) but it was a bear to get it to the right torque so I wound up buying one 25" long and it works great - much better leverage for when you are sitting on the garage floor and can only use your arms.

 

[WilcoJunoHotel]

As for tiny adjustments, I am referring to the brake side adjuster being a little loose (very little, not the axle. The axle prolly needs to be moved forward another 1mm or less to tighten up the adjuster, which I will do in coming days.

If you are referring to the end cap being loose, I don't think it serves any purpose except to help align the axle and belt. Whether it will vibrate and fall off because it is loose, I don't know. Whether it keeps the axle in position after it is torqued, I also don't know - It is just a small screw so doubtful it provides much help in keeping the axle from moving (after torqueing). Maybe someone else can answer this better than I.

 

[EdMat]

I am inclined to agree with you on torquing the nut rather than the bolt. I just bought a 36mm wrench and socket to do so. As for dropping the muffler to clear access to the nut, I have not looked yet. Others have noted it is easy.

As for tiny adjustments, I am referring to the brake side adjuster being a little loose (very little, not the axle. The axle prolly needs to be moved forward another 1mm or less to tighten up the adjuster, which I will do in coming days.

If the axle is tight and the belt adjustment is correct just snug up the adjuster to remove the slack.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

If the axle is tight and the belt adjustment is correct just snug up the adjuster to remove the slack.

IF the axel is TIGHT, and you TRY to SNUG up the adjuster .... it WILL strip it - period ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[EdMat]

IF the axle is TIGHT, and you TRY to SNUG up the adjuster .... it WILL strip it - period ..... Mike :thumbup:

OK Mike, maybe I'm missing something or miss stating what I mean. You have the adjustment plate (cap) with Allen headed bolt thru it that functions to pull the axle rearward. If you have already tightened up the axle, everything is lined up the way you want but then you find the adjustment plate is loose I can't see a reason you could not just snug up the bolt till the looseness was gone. Why would it strip out?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

OK Mike, maybe I'm missing something or miss stating what I mean. You have the adjustment plate (cap) with allen headed bolt thru it that functions to pull the axle rearward. If you have already tightened up the axle, everything is lined up the way you want but then you find the adjustment plate is loose I can't see a reason you could not just snug up the bolt till the looseness was gone. Why would it strip out?

IMHO if the AXLE can't move, ie. it's torqued to 165 lbs. then the "adjustment" bolt/screw (whatever you call it) won't be able to move it .... something is going to occur ..... and I believe the threads will strip ...... Mike :thumbup: