• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

What's the secret...

SpyRyd

New member
What's the secret...UPDATE 4 June

to removing the foot pegs on an RT? I tried to remove the left peg (the easier side) this morning but could not get the nut on the long bolt loosened more than about a single revolution. Was using a 15mm 1/2 inch drive socket and a long breaker bar on the bolt head and a 17mm 3/8 drive socket and a standard ratchet wrench on the nut. Actually used my foot against the wrench while trying to turn the bolt using the breaker bar...no luck...still couldn't get the bolt/nut to loosen more than one turn. Tightened it back up and reinstalled my Inspector Gadget floorboard.

This attempt was primarily a dry run in prep for installing the RIVCO RT Driver Floorboards that I have ordered. Can't install the RIVCO boards if I can't get the OEM pegs off.

So, all you savvy wrench turners out there, need your help, what's the secret to removing the OEM pegs? Thanks...

UPDATE 4 June: Over the past week I sprayed the left peg bolt two times with WD40 (petroleum distillates) and Carb and Choke Cleaner (toluene). Evidently this softened the thread locker and I was able to easily remove the left peg bolt nut.

So if you ever have to remove the left peg bolt do yourself a favor and treat the bolt/nut as I did. If you don't do something to soften/dissolve the thread locker, be prepared for a struggle (make that one h_ _ _ of a fight) trying to remove the peg bolt nut.
 
Last edited:
Eat your Wheaties. They'll come off. When I took mine off they stopped an air drive dead in its tracks. Takes a good breaker bar and lots of patience. They will come off. Promise.
 
If it's not moving any more than that, I would suspect it got cross threaded on assembly and some loose thread particle is binding it. You're just going to have to keep turning until it breaks and replace it. My guess anyway.
 
If it's not moving any more than that, I would suspect it got cross threaded on assembly and some loose thread particle is binding it. You're just going to have to keep turning until it breaks and replace it. My guess anyway.

It will feel like it's cross threaded but it is not. What it is is the type of thread locker they use on installation. As you wrench, it heats up, the hotter it gets the more resistance you feel. I did not come up with this theory. It was presented to me after I had finished with mine and asked questions later. :gaah:
 
Łio title?

Probably some sort of liquid lock nut similar to Loctite. Keep cranking on it. You may have revert to using a pipe extension on the handle of the ratchet or swivel head wrench you end up using.
 
Try slopping some penetrating oil in on the threads and give it overnight to soften stuff up...:thumbup:
Alternately; try putting some heat on it!:shocked:
 
Try slopping some penetrating oil in on the threads and give it overnight to soften stuff up...:thumbup:
Alternately; try putting some heat on it!:shocked:


I thought of the penetrating oil but didn't have anyway to get the oil to the threads since the only access to the bolt threads is from underneath the foot peg. Spoke with the owner of REVCO about the installation of their new RT Floorboards and he said he had to use a propane torch to heat up the nut in order to remove it. Gonna buy a 3/8 drive 18 inch breaker bar to use with my 17mm 3/8 drive socket in order to get more leverage than a standard ratchet wrench provides. May have to resort to heating it up in order to get the nut off.
 
Announce to the family that you will be swearing at your bike and to pay no attention, you may very well scream at it. These things have a vested interest in staying where they are and will fight you until the last breath is had. bandage your knuckles in advance and have a stiff drink waiting.nojoke
 
:shocked: You must be TONS of fun to watch in the garage... :shocked: :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: :thumbup:
 
Announce to the family that you will be swearing at your bike and to pay no attention, you may very well scream at it. These things have a vested interest in staying where they are and will fight you until the last breath is had. bandage your knuckles in advance and have a stiff drink waiting.nojoke

The secret.......is no longer a secret :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: cage fighting......humph!!
 
The problem you are having is because the bolt is coated with "Scotch Grip", a thread locking product. This is stated in the BRP Parts Catalog. The product for loosening this particular thread locker is "Scotch Grip Solvent #2", which contains "petroleum distillates and toluene"
I suspect that BRP used this particular very, very aggressive thread locker on the rider pegs to make sure that they did not come loose accidently and cause a loss of control.
Heat may indeed soften the "Scotch Grip", but the actual solvent to use is the one previously mentioned.


KYSPYDER
 
The problem you are having is because the bolt is coated with "Scotch Grip", a thread locking product. This is stated in the BRP Parts Catalog. The product for loosening this particular thread locker is "Scotch Grip Solvent #2", which contains "petroleum distillates and toluene"
I suspect that BRP used this particular very, very aggressive thread locker on the rider pegs to make sure that they did not come loose accidently and cause a loss of control.
Heat may indeed soften the "Scotch Grip", but the actual solvent to use is the one previously mentioned.


KYSPYDER
:agree: ScotchGrip is a microencapsulated epoxy product. When the fastener is tightened, the two-part epoxy mixes. When cured, it takes considerably more torque to unfasten the item than it did to tighten it. Het may or may not be of any help, the correct solvent is the way to go...or maybe enlisting a little help from the Incredible Hulk.
 
Announce to the family that you will be swearing at your bike and to pay no attention, you may very well scream at it. These things have a vested interest in staying where they are and will fight you until the last breath is had. bandage your knuckles in advance and have a stiff drink waiting.nojoke

That's all of my mods are done!!! nojoke and then :cheers:
 
:shocked: You must be TONS of fun to watch in the garage... :shocked: :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: :thumbup:
If I thought about it in advance, I could have made a ton of money on videos of me modifying vehicles through the years. I even make new swear words of epic proportions.
 
The problem you are having is because the bolt is coated with "Scotch Grip", a thread locking product. This is stated in the BRP Parts Catalog. The product for loosening this particular thread locker is "Scotch Grip Solvent #2", which contains "petroleum distillates and toluene"
I suspect that BRP used this particular very, very aggressive thread locker on the rider pegs to make sure that they did not come loose accidently and cause a loss of control.
Heat may indeed soften the "Scotch Grip", but the actual solvent to use is the one previously mentioned.


KYSPYDER

Thanks for the info. Googled Scotch Grip Solvent #2 and did not find it available in less than a quart size. I have some Carb and Choke cleaner that contains Acetone and Toluene but no petroleum distillates. Think it would work to loosen up the Scotch Grip? Also noticed that WD40 "contains petroleum distillates"...wonder if it might help...or even using both the carb and choke cleaner and WD40 together?????
 
Last edited:
Teddy's 2 cents ....... and good luck



Hmmmmm...... Maybe I just got lucky (or maybe I should be concerened:shocked:) but I removed the Left (easy) side driver and passenger pegs, and they did have that thread locker on there, but I don't recall it being much of a struggle at all. Not sure if you've removed your side panels or not, but having adequit working space may also help:dontknow:
 
Back
Top