• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

What's the extra Switch on the 2020 RT Limited for?

love this clean look and set up. my question is.... how do you pair a hard wired switch to a battery operated remote control?

What I did was get a Homelink module from a junkyard car. That's the 3 button garage door opener. It's actually better to get one from an older car when they put them in the sun visor. You can use a 9 volt battery to power it while you program it to your opener. After that, I just used a tie-wrap to permanently keep the button pressed. Wire the ground to ground, and the power from my new switch (momentary position) to the power wire of the Homelink module. Since the button is already pressed, the momentary power is all that's needed to open the door! I just wrapped the module in waterproof tape and tucked it away behind the frunk liner out of sight. Works perfectly!
 
love this clean look and set up. my question is.... how do you pair a hard wired switch to a battery operated remote control?


In my case, I purchased a Mo-Door garage door opener, which is designed with external wires mounted from the factory. I didn't trust my skills enough to use a standard opener and solder wires to it. I'm sure I would have messed it up. It might even make an entertaining YouTube video as an Epic Fail.
 
Has anyone checked behind the blanking plate to see if wires are there for connecting to a switch that is installed in the opening?

FWIW, there maybe a jumper connector that makes that aux chin light stay powered at all times. Possibly remove the jumper and you can switch the aux chin light.

Bummer mo fog lights on the new models.

Oh well, just guessing as to the jumper since we do not have one to inspect. Would not be out of line for BRP to omit the switch to save money.
 
Has anyone checked behind the blanking plate to see if wires are there for connecting to a switch that is installed in the opening?

FWIW, there maybe a jumper connector that makes that aux chin light stay powered at all times. Possibly remove the jumper and you can switch the aux chin light.

Bummer mo fog lights on the new models.

Oh well, just guessing as to the jumper since we do not have one to inspect. Would not be out of line for BRP to omit the switch to save money.

Having installed an on/off switch for my auxiliary light, I can confirm that there is not any wires or wiring under the blank hole in console. I had to run my own wires from the frunk area to the center console. No fog lights is the reason I installed an aftermarket auxiliary light.
 
I installed the front aux light in mine. The connector was right behind the plastic blank panel. No switch is needed or used for this light. It is on anytime the headlights are on. That said, I needed to power two aux circuits. One for my Sirius radio and the other for my garage door opener. I had to make a wiring harness and obtain the correct style and type of switch (Off - On - Momentary) to make it work. I've wired it so the red led light in the switch is only on when the switch is in the ON position, not all the time.
View attachment 181982

Jetfixer, I know this an old post but was wondering, I am interested doing the same thing, do you still have part number and source for the switch? If not do you have the hole size? I am waiting for delivery of my Spyder but want to get parts on hand.
Thanks in advance
 
Just a further update:
I moved into a new house recently and replaced the crappy old garage door openers with newer Genie ones with DC drive and battery backup.
The new openers would not read the signal from my MoDoor remote.
Since I had four remotes, I took a chance at soldering wires to the board of one of the new remotes.
I'm surprised, but happy to report that I was successful and the door goes up and down with a press of the button on the panel, as shown in my previous post.
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...0-RT-Limited&p=1551078&viewfull=1#post1551078
 
I installed the Spyderpops garage door opener in the place of the blank. I have the BRP auxiliary light (it is plugged and play) no switch needed, comes open with engine start.
 
I know this is an old thread, but what's the thoughts on this aux light? Good or so so?
 
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I know this is an old thread, but what's the thoughts on this aux light? Good or so so?

I bought an aftermarket LED light for under $20 that fit almost perfectly with slightly better output, so I can't comment on the OEM light, but honestly it doesn't do all that much. It is a little bit better at illuminating the road at night right in front of you and a little better daytime visibility to other drivers. So, for me at under $20, it was worth it, but at the cost of the OEM, I doubt it. However, only you can decide.
 
Just an update, I think I've published this before. I replaced the blank switch with a an additional OEM windshield switch that I've wired up to a garage door opener.
This spring, I also rearranged the switches into a more pleasing view, with both of the switches that control the heating gear together in the center.
The garage opener is now in the upper right.

attachment.php
 
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Just an update, I think I've published this before. I replaced the blank switch with a an additional OEM windshield switch that I've wired up to a garage door opener.
This spring, I also rearranged the switches into a more pleasing view, with both of the switches that control the heating gear together in the center.
The garage opener is now in the upper right.

attachment.php

I did exactly the same except my switch is from Mo-Door. It is plain black and only has one momentary position. The center console looks much better with the heat switches together in the center. It should have been this way from the factory.
 
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