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What's the best Can Am Spyder lift?

I made a adapter for my HD trike the fit my auto lift.. I just tried it today for the new 22 rt and it fit perfect . Just now i have to back on the lift cs.jpg
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What exactly are looking for? A lift for an occasional oil change or as I used my HF aluminum to lift my RTL up enough so I could spin the wheels to wash them? I originally bought it to install a BajaRon sway bar. Between the lift and blocks it worked flawlessly.
 
This one from HF works well for me. It's more stable than the steel model HF sells. It will lift the Spyder high enough to do everything except sway bar replacement. https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-aluminum-atv-motorcycle-lift-63397.html

I bought the same one, absolutely love it. I use it in combination with low profile ramps, and 2 of the 3 ton Daytona jackstands they sell to hold the front end up when I have the front tires off.

Just drive up on the ramps, place my chocks on the rear tire with the parking brake on and jack up with the lift from the front on the frame's crossbar and place the jack stands under the A arms.

Back end is a whole lot easier just chock the front tires take the extensions off of the lift to get it under my ultimate floorboards and jack up on the rearmost part of the frame to lift the back end up off of the floor to do your work.

But in order to get Baja Ron's bar in I just put my lawn mower ramps on the back of my pickup with the tailgate removed (using safety chains on the ramps attached to the bumper ) to get the Spyder high enough to do the swapout.
 
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The add does not lit the length of the lifting rails, that would be a major concern. At a minimum all the weight would be far out on the rails unless you removed the floorboards on an RT every time you wanted to get it up. Will have to give in a look next time I am in HF, show in stock locally.
 
There's this review (Based on this, I probably will not risk it as I have zero welding skills)

This has been a great asset to my home shop. There is almost always a full sized Harley on it. I did have to reinforce the lower pivot on the vertical bar because after a couple years of use, it tore off and my bike hit the floor then landed on its side. This happened while I was pumping the ram to raise the motorcycle.

Under load, the top pivot is stressed toward the bar while the lower pivot is stressed away from the bar and that is where the pivot tore away and let the bike fall. IF THE TOP LOCK POSITION BECOMES DIFFICULT TO REACH, THE LOWER PIVOT IS PULLING AWAY FROM THE VERTICAL BAR AND WILL EVENTUALLY BREAK AND YOUR BIKE WILL FALL The pivot has been repaired and reinforced. Fortunately, the bike landed in a way that caused little damage but could have been much worse

Steves-shop May 20, 2022
 
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Did you see Joe’s earlier post about selling his Big Blue as he doesn’t have the room for it, Pete?

Pete

I did, Pete. I texted him today and he still has it and I'll be buying it from him. He's presently at his Montana property but will be back in Las Vegas early October. So, as we go down to Yuma for the winter, I'll swing by and pick it up. :thumbup:
 
The add does not lit the length of the lifting rails, that would be a major concern. At a minimum all the weight would be far out on the rails unless you removed the floorboards on an RT every time you wanted to get it up. Will have to give in a look next time I am in HF, show in stock locally.

Lifting rails are 17" long
 
After over a four month wait, I just received my new J&S Jack yesterday. It is well made, solid, and Made In USA...but it's not cheap, and the wait time was loooong. Note that I have a steel Harbor Freight jack that I paid $30 in cash from a local pawn shop 3 years ago, and I have used that HF jack to replace two rear tires on my 2009 Spyder GS. That being said, lifting the GS was a bit wiggly and the jack had some flex/wobble, but overall felt sufficiently stable to do the tire changes. However the 2021RT that I am replacing the stock, worn nearly to the cords, Kenda rear tire, weighs about 300 lb more than the GS so I did not want to risk lifting the RT with the HF jack.

I also purchased one of the two remaining Spyder RT adapters from J&S when I ordered the jack. Of course, with the adapter in stock, it came in three days. The adapter is heavy 1/4 inch steel made specifically to sit securely on the lift arms of the J&S Jack and to securely support the RT while maintaining stability and balance. Looking forward to trying it out, hopefully this weekend.

NO. The J&S Spyder adapter will not fit on the HF jack. The lift arms on the J&S are substantially wider than the HF. Even if it did fit, the HF Jack would be at the limits of its safe, stable working range.

Here is a link from bmwlarry with the J&S Jack and RT Spyder adapter: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...y-to-lift-the-Spyder-%85&highlight=Handy+Lift

The RT adapter should balance and securely stabilize the Spyder and the J&S Jack is in a different level for quality of construction and robust build vs the HF jack, but it is priced accordingly. Watching the youtube comparisons of the guys lifting the big, heavy touring HD rigs, it looks like the J&S is the most stable with the least flex of them all.

Hope to be able to report that the new jack worked well and the tire change went well sometime soon.

Thanks
Rod
 
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I've used an old Harbour Freight lift for years. BUT I NEVER work under my :spyder2: Unless it is on Jack Stands with the rear wheel supported on a large block of wood. As I used to tell the students in my auto shop class----- " A car only falls on you once"

Lew L
 
Has anyone compared HF lift to a OTC lift ?? I know theres a lot of people that likes the HF but found very little on OTC. Thanks
 
Has anyone compared HF lift to a OTC lift ?? I know theres a lot of people that likes the HF but found very little on OTC. Thanks

As a retired heavy vehicle Fleet/Shop manager I would take the OTC over the HF lift any day.

Honestly I wouldnt purchase anything from HF and expect it to last if used much. JMHO
 
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