-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
What Shock setting do you use??
- Thread starter rworell
- Start date
SpyderAnn01
Active member
The front shocks on the 10 & 11 weren't the greatest so lots of us replaced them with 12 shocks. My opinion would be that the stiffer setting would be better especially if you ride two up
Bob Denman
New member
When I had my 2010; I went to the fifth notch immediately. :thumbup:
After that: I got serious about improving the front suspension. nojoke
After that: I got serious about improving the front suspension. nojoke
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
On my 2014 I have the adjustment set at one notch below max. Works great for me. No deluxe shocks or sway bar added to mine.
I am 185# and do not ride with passengers. :thumbup:
I am 185# and do not ride with passengers. :thumbup:
sledmaster
Member
BRP has specifications as to what the shock length is supposed to be when loaded, and preload is supposed to be adjusted so the front end geometry sits right. This is not guess and miss, this is an actual Spyder specification on how much preload should be dialed in to achieve the specified shock length, thus the a-arms and tire sit properly. I think I posted this before, but here we go -
"The importance of properly adjusting the shock preload is to set the vehicle at a ride height at which the vehicle was designed to operate. Alignment values are determined at precise ride height values. Ride height is also the position at which the alignment is the most stable and less influenced by bump steer.
In order to properly adjust the vehicle’s ride height, have the customer sit on the unit and add approximately what the customer loads in the front cargo bin. Measure the distance between the front shock bolt centers. Adjust the preload in order to reach the desired value in the ride height chart. Remember to lift the vehicle to adjust the shock cams or rings in order to avoid damage to these components.
Preload does not influence stiffness nor softness of the ride, it only adjusts the ride height."
[TABLE="class: cms_table, width: 500"]
[TR]
[TD="align: center"]Model Year[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]Model[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]Distance (± 2 mm, 0.08 in)[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: center"]2008 - 2012[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]GS/RS[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]428 mm (16.850 in)[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: center"]2010 - 2012[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]RT[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]428 mm (16.850 in)[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: center"]2013 - 2014[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]RS/ST[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]420 mm (16.50 in)[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: center"]2013 - 2014[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]RT[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]445 mm (17.50 in)[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
"The importance of properly adjusting the shock preload is to set the vehicle at a ride height at which the vehicle was designed to operate. Alignment values are determined at precise ride height values. Ride height is also the position at which the alignment is the most stable and less influenced by bump steer.
In order to properly adjust the vehicle’s ride height, have the customer sit on the unit and add approximately what the customer loads in the front cargo bin. Measure the distance between the front shock bolt centers. Adjust the preload in order to reach the desired value in the ride height chart. Remember to lift the vehicle to adjust the shock cams or rings in order to avoid damage to these components.
Preload does not influence stiffness nor softness of the ride, it only adjusts the ride height."
[TABLE="class: cms_table, width: 500"]
[TR]
[TD="align: center"]Model Year[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]Model[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]Distance (± 2 mm, 0.08 in)[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: center"]2008 - 2012[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]GS/RS[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]428 mm (16.850 in)[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: center"]2010 - 2012[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]RT[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]428 mm (16.850 in)[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: center"]2013 - 2014[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]RS/ST[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]420 mm (16.50 in)[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="align: center"]2013 - 2014[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]RT[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]445 mm (17.50 in)[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Bob Denman
New member
:clap: Thanks for this information! :2thumbs:
robmorg
New member
:agree: with Ann. Most folks want a stiffer setting than OEM recommendations. My 2013 RT didn't come with adjustors, but I installed BajaRon's shock adjustors and found that 4.5 turns was right for me, which is more than most folks use. (These adjustors don't have "notches".)
But the "correct" setting is different for everyone. It really depends on the weight you put on your Spyder. Providing your shocks are doing their job properly, the spring compression is a compromise between optimum ride height, the degree of stiffness that will prevent porpoising, and your ride comfort. You just have to play around with different settings until you find that "sweet spot" that works for you. :thumbup:
Last edited:
Thanks Sledmaster for this post. We also have Elka stage 2s on our '13ST. The OEM shocks were non-adjustable and pieces of crap from the start. I love the Elkas. I will have to have a friend measure our ride height as we are almost always 2 up. Now at least I will have a target to adjust to.
Love this site.
Love this site.
Similar threads
