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What Rear Axle Nut Wrench are you using?

So the dealership I've been using for warranty work and most recently a new rear tire, is having a tough time aligning the drive belt. Seems to me they want to rush it through and get to the paying jobs. (can't blame them I guess) Anyway... I have been doing some research and am going to adjust it myself. What has/is anyone using for a wrench on the axle nut? I have been to all the usual suspects, and no one has a 36mm wrench that "I liked the look of".

Thanks

2018 F3 Limited

Read this thread to see the problem I have had in getting the alignment just right. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...Problem-amp-Question&highlight=belt+alignment. Maybe your dealer was dealing with the same issue, i.e., the axle moving while torquing the nut.
 
I found that my axel also moved when trying to tighten down the axel nut. I solved the problem by running a ratcheting tiedown strap from the right front floorboard around the back tire and making it as tight as possible. This has kept my wheel from walking while tightening the axel nut.
I got my 36mm socket years ago from MAC, but back in those days I was making my living with the tools. I would not spend that kind of money today. NAPA, Advance, the internet, Harbor Freight are all good enough for as often as most of us will be using them. I think my combination wrench came from Walmart trailer hitch aisle and was for sure made in China and cheap, but it works.
 
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You have to torque each side toward the adjusters or that will happen.

Just exactly what do you mean? Since the nut has to turn clockwise to tighten, if the bottom section of it has more friction against the swing arm than does the top section that friction will tend to make the nut and axle move forward. There really isn't enough room to point the wrench any way but toward the back. And since torquing is rotational I don't see how you can make it directional.
 
Just exactly what do you mean? Since the nut has to turn clockwise to tighten, if the bottom section of it has more friction against the swing arm than does the top section that friction will tend to make the nut and axle move forward. There really isn't enough room to point the wrench any way but toward the back. And since torquing is rotational I don't see how you can make it directional.

If I recall correctly it's top left, bottom right.
 
To stop the axle from moving while torquing it, you can run two small straps around the back tire and go over the frame cross member the rear shock is mounted on. Once you pull it all forward with the ratchet straps, the axle will be right up against the adjuster bolts. If you have not moved the adjuster bolts, the belt adjustment will be exactly the same as before you removed the rear axle.

I posted a how to change rear tire guide on this forum several years ago, but for some reason the pictures that went with it no longer show up. I still have the pictures.
 

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They are not flea market finds, they are my family heirlooms.

If you can't find the 36 mm tools, then a 1 7/16 SAE is about 1/2 mm larger. On a nut that large the 1/2 mm would make very little difference. It sure would not slip or round the corners. So little difference in 36 and a 36.5 you would be OK with that on the very large nuts.

Hey that looks like what I have .... and I bought them mostly at " flea markets " ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
Yes I hope mine will become "family Heirlooms", but mostly I think they will become "Garage sale finds" for somebody else.:roflblack:
 
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