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What Oil Frequency and Oil Type do you use?

Euro style oils typically have better HTHS numbers (high temp/high shear) and high calcium levels for extended drain intervals.
Both of what you want in a common sump/gearbox. Leave it in, it's fine.
Lots of discussion on car vs. MC oils. When you analyze them, many are splitting hairs. The difference between Mobil1 car oil and MC oil is a bit more Z and P, and about 7PPM less moly in the MC oil. Both are, for all practical purposes, interchangeable.Wet clutches slip and glaze because of spring tension in the clutch basket or other mechanical problems, not because of oils.
I just bought a stash of 10w40 Havoline conventional for future changes because those weights are becoming less and less popular with the auto crowd. It was on closeout, and can't beat 2.00 a quart now. The trend is going thinner, there are now some 0w8 offerings for cars. I'm not worried in the least putting a conventional, auto oil in the Spyder for the next season.

I'm hyper FRUGAL, but I wouldn't take his advice..... if the oil doesn't have a Jaso MA II rating it's NOT going in my Spyder - PERIOD ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
 
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Agreed. I use Amsoil and have used it for all my bikes. Would not use anything else.
 
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Gotta love these endless oil threads. Here's the best one I've read yet. Got it off of FB. I think I might try it and then send it in for analysis. LOL

"I use waste oil from the local take out food store. It' full syn veg based oil cost nothing just filter it though an 'old' sock and away you go. Saves the environment as well."

If you do this before I do let me know how it works and let us know if you feel an increase in HP also. Some say helps with those of us who complain about noxious fumes and gives your exhaust the slight odor of french fries. Stay safe out there and protect the environment.
 
Gotta love these endless oil threads. Here's the best one I've read yet. Got it off of FB. I think I might try it and then send it in for analysis. LOL

"I use waste oil from the local take out food store. It' full syn veg based oil cost nothing just filter it though an 'old' sock and away you go. Saves the environment as well."

If you do this before I do let me know how it works and let us know if you feel an increase in HP also. Some say helps with those of us who complain about noxious fumes and gives your exhaust the slight odor of french fries. Stay safe out there and protect the environment.

Workable, but maybe not economical, to use such oil for fuel but I sure wouldn't try it for engine oil!
 
Gotta love these endless oil threads. Here's the best one I've read yet. Got it off of FB. I think I might try it and then send it in for analysis. LOL

"I use waste oil from the local take out food store. It' full syn veg based oil cost nothing just filter it though an 'old' sock and away you go. Saves the environment as well."

If you do this before I do let me know how it works and let us know if you feel an increase in HP also. Some say helps with those of us who complain about noxious fumes and gives your exhaust the slight odor of french fries. Stay safe out there and protect the environment.

Waste cooking oil works fine if you're using it as fuel for an old-style mechanical pump type diesel engine, I know of vehicles that've done hundreds of thousands of miles on nothing but waste cooking oil from the local fish'n'chip shops!! Even run a few diesel engined vehicles on it myself. :ohyea:

Mind you, it's not so good for the more modern electronic injector pumps &/or common rail diesel engines, but there are some who still do use it.... :rolleyes: .... mostly just for a short while, tho! :gaah: Doing that can get very expensive very quickly! :banghead: . But there are 'bio-diesel' alternative fuels that work quite well for those more modern diesel engines. :thumbup:


Still, I'm pretty sure that I'd never risk using waste cooking oil, fully synthetic or not, as engine or transmission oil in a diesel OR in my car/truck/Spyder tho - not even if it was run thru a better filter than an 'old sock'!! :yikes:
 
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Gotta love these endless oil threads. Here's the best one I've read yet. Got it off of FB. I think I might try it and then send it in for analysis. LOL

"I use waste oil from the local take out food store. It' full syn veg based oil cost nothing just filter it though an 'old' sock and away you go. Saves the environment as well."

If you do this before I do let me know how it works and let us know if you feel an increase in HP also. Some say helps with those of us who complain about noxious fumes and gives your exhaust the slight odor of french fries. Stay safe out there and protect the environment.

Not sure about an engine oil but, it works great as a chainsaw chain oil. When I'm cutting wood that I plan to use in my smoker, I use cooking oil.
 
Like Mike said Walmart is selling 1 gal 5w/40 full synthetic Rotella T-6 for $23.48 . .........check Tractor Supply they often have Rotella coupons ( 2.5 gal $60.00 )....

I change the oil every 5K miles, and use the Rotella T-6 ( I do ride in the winter so I don't change the oil untill the spring untill hit the 5K mark).
 
:chat:....Well you can use any oil that has the correct Specs stated by BRP.
Soooooo..... I have been using Mobil 1 Motorcycle for my Spyder. I use the 10w40 which is a 'Full Synthetic Oil'.
Like others have said, BRP used to have and sell a 'full synthetic' 10w40 oil for our Spyders. Now they don't offer this any longer. They have gone to a 'blended oil'.

So now you know the 'rest of the story'. .....:thumbup:
 
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Mobil 1 10w40 motorcycle oil, changed each 5000 miles. Other than the oem oil used for break in miles, it has been Mobil 1 every oil change.
Ran aftermarket oil filter and O rings once and will be going back to oem oil filters and o rings.

Never accomplished SOAP samples to evaluate the oils long term durability, but others have and it does very well. 5000 miles is changing prior to the oil truly shearing from use. My concerns of wear are not in regards to the engine, but rather the gearbox.

Shared sumps are hard on the oil. Not worth the wear associated with long oil change intervals, and overall, oil and a filter is inexpensive vs gearbox wear.
 
I'm hyper FRUGAL, but I wouldn't take his advice..... if the oil doesn't have a Jaso MA II rating it's NOT going in my Spyder - PERIOD ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

There have been some interesting discussions regarding the JASO rating of the Rotella T6. Interesting in that others brought up that while the label states the oil is JASO MA2 approved, the Rotella T6 has not been posted on the most recent, and even previous JASO lists of oils submitted, tested and approved by the JASO.

I can not explain or understand why if the oil is actually approved, even if by testing from an independent lab, or by the JASO, the oil has not made it onto the JASO published list of approved oils.

Is there anyone that has been involved within the oil industry that can clarify the reasoning of why Rotella T6 was not listed as approved by the JASO in theirpublished approval list?
 
I switched over to the rotella t-6 and one of the things that is very noticable is that if I don't let my engine warm up in cold weather and just try to start and go on my way the engine wants to stall on initial take off in first gear until the oil warms up.

I didn't have this issue with using the xps oil.
 
I heartily second BajaRon's recommendation of Blackstone doing the oil analysis. Get a baseline done then send out at every oil change. It is cheap insurance.

BTW I would change the oil and filter every 5000 miles or at least once a year if bike isnt used that much. As someone mentioned earlier in the thread, oil is cheap, engines are expensive....
 
bel-ray exs synthetic ester sae 10-40 9300 miles or so changed oil 3 times this year havent changed orings at all did up grade to magnetic drain plugs what a time saver they are
 
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