What gives with this Brake Failure Code - C0048 *** SOLVED ***

[gdcpony]

C0048
Faulty Brake Booster Travel Sensor
Brake Booster Travel Sensor harness is open or shorted
Brake Booster Travel Sensor circuit poor electrical connection

Being that I had no idea the spyder had a "booster," I am perplexed by this code.

I started getting this code Thursday and am wondering if anyone could shed some light on it? I have cleared the code twice and it comes back. Brake performance is unchanged as of now. Bike has 15k miles on it. Recent work to the brakes was the installation of EBC pads about three months ago. I did flush fresh fluid through the bike today in the hope it would have some affect, but no dice. Obviously, the fluid is full.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

C0048
Faulty Brake Booster Travel Sensor
Brake Booster Travel Sensor harness is open or shorted
Brake Booster Travel Sensor circuit poor electrical connection

Being that I had no idea the spyder had a "booster," I am perplexed by this code.

I started getting this code Thursday and am wondering if anyone could shed some light on it? I have cleared the code twice and it comes back. Brake performance is unchanged as of now. Bike has 15k miles on it. Recent work to the brakes was the installation of EBC pads about three months ago. I did flush fresh fluid through the bike today in the hope it would have some affect, but no dice. Obviously, the fluid is full.

Looks like you Googled the code and pulled up that definition out of an OBD-II database. You know you can't do that, right? Spyder codes may look like OBD-II codes, but the vast majority of the time the definitions are Spyder specific. The Spyder is not an OBD-II system.

The most reliable means to define a code is to look it up in the BUDS All Faults listing for that MY and model, or post up here so somebody can do it. How DID you clear the code twice? Do you have BUDS? Or use the Search box in the forum, and search for the code. Most likely, somebody on here has already got it once or twice.

Having done both of those for you, what it is really saying is that you have a sensor failure for one of your brake fluid level sensors. Make sure you have on your reading glasses and ensure that you got the code correct. Those sensors are those white plastic things with the float, that is in the rear of both of your reservoir chambers. Failed sensor, corroded harness connector, critter damage are possibilities. You may have to replace one.

And just to cover the bases that there wasn't a programming error, I would make doubly sure that the brake fluid level is chock full in both chambers. You want the tops of those floats in the sensors to be above the outer ring. The Min and Max markings on those reservoirs under the seat are meaningless. And ensure that the gasket under the cap hasn't unfolded. If it has, just pop it back in place. The vent line in the cap should point to the rear when you put it back on. Good Luck.

 

[Flamewinger]

Curious about the floating level sensor and how it’s connected to the bike’s system?

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?73267-Brake-Failure

 

[Peter Aawen]

Curious about the floating level sensor and how it’s connected to the bike’s system?

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?73267-Brake-Failure

The float is the float part of a level sensor, sorta like the level sensor float for your gas tank; and just like the gas tank & its level sensor, it's all connected inside the reservoir... :thumbup:

 

[gdcpony]

Thank you. I did google it as you said and had used the search bar here too. the thread you reference is also the one I found where it says the code is not listed and must be C0049. I have failed to find that code myself, but unless it is a C004B, that is what it is. I found the clearing procedure here as well as a couple other places. I even tried just unhooking the battery like any good shade tree mechanic.

The fluid is full enough that I used a rag around the caps when I put them on. I also cleaned the lids, but did not know the vent thing. I will go down and check that now. there are marks on the caps and panel that look like they are meant to line up. I will verify those are accurate.

If I understand you right, I need the part below: there seem to be two of them, so barring any damage found after I work my way to them, is there a way to check them independently? I know I can just pop both in, but $45 is $45.

https://www.canampartshouse.com/oemparts/p/can_am/705601073/oil-level-sensor

 

[gdcpony]

Solved: The front float was sticking. The pic by Snowbelt Spyder gave me the info needed. I freed it up and the code went away on its own.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Just an FYI for people with old code lists. Designs can be changed and new codes added all the time. C0048 was a new code in 2013 for the RT and ST. The RS got it in 2014. The reason is that the design of the level switches was changed in 2013. The switch electrically closes on low level. So, if it became unplugged, etc, the VCM would never receive the low level signal and never give you the alarm. The new design adds a supervisory resistor internal to the switch. Now if it became unplugged, or fails, the supervisory current flow will be lost and you'll get the alarm.

I would have expected the OP to have received the C0049 fault code for a stuck low float. But, that's why we always check brake fluid level first, no matter what the code.

 

[safecracker]

Snowbelt is correct on pre 2013 all you have to do is unplug the connector and no more code from reservoir. Post 2013 they have a supervised circuit. I believe the resistance is around 1400 ohms. Bruce