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What gas does the Spyder take???

I asked the lead mechanic at the dealership this question ( I've got a '13 RT Ltd). The answer was that to use more than 87 is a waste of money and not neared. I use my bike a lot so he said don't worry about ethanol treatment unless it is going to get a lot less use.


Guess your mechanic thinks he knows a great deal more than the engineers that designed an programmed your bike.

To the OP, the 2012's BRP recommended 91. Starting in 2013 it became a REQUIREMENT. Likely as that is when the compression ratio went up as well as a change in engine controls. The fuel requirements are on the emissions label under the seat on the RT. Rear of frunk on the F3.
 
Here's the thing....

I think that the reason your spyder does just as well on 87 as 91 here in the US is that our fuel meet a different standard...Just like here they claim higher prices for the summer blend..:hun: but anyway being from another country where the standards are different I can tell you if you run your machine on 87 it will sound like the marracas in a salsa band. It may just be easier to tell us to use the best and avoid having to tell you different for every country....:dontknow: For the price difference it just makes sense to use the best you can get....I did pull up to the wrong pump once and got a tankful of racing fuel (Talk about expensive) and the spyder liked to go airborne coming outta the station....:yes:
 
^^^^^^:agree::agree:....with Dr. Baja Ron's dissertation, lol.


I have found and like to use 90 octane that is ethanol free...what say you Baja Ron?

I am definitely not the "Last Word" in fuel (or anything else for that matter). I just expound more than most! :rolleyes:

But it's pretty universal that whenever you can use pure gasoline you're better off than with an ethanol mix.
 
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What gas to use?

I travel around rural Missouri and Kansas a lot. I will fill up with 91 octane when possible. I am in many places that I can only get 87 ethanol gas or I can walk. Funny thing is, last weekend I was out riding. I filled up with 87 ethanol. I got farther on that tank of gas than I had got to date. I have 10k on my Spyder. Three or four times a year I will put in some cleaner/stabilizer. I rode an Evo Harley for ten years on 87 ethanol gas with no problems. The last year I had it, I tore the carb down and found no issues from running ethanol gas. That being said, if you are not going through a lot of gas, try to stay with what is recommended.
BTW, I got 41mpg with an average speed of 43.
 
One Last Thing...

Taken right from the pages of your owner's manual:

Regular unleaded gasoline (fuel which may contain
up to 10% MAX ethanol)
Inside North America Recommended for optimum performance: 91 (R+M)/2.
Fuel Minimum: 87 (R+M)/2
Octane
no.
Outside North America Recommended for optimum performance: 95 RON.
Minimum: 92 RON
Fuel tank capacity 25 L (6.6 U.S. gal.)
 
Why risk it??

Although modern engines have various "knock detectors" to retard the spark etc . Premium gas will do this just by design .... My first school session as an apprentice mechanic ( in another lifetime it seems now ) addressed how fuel is burned as a flash and not an "explosion" in the cylinder . Lower octane fuels in hi comp engines can ignite irradically under loads and knock detectors can only function AFTER pre-ignition shows ... So as many have touched on here , for a couple extra bucks why tempt fate ?
 
Hi Octane with additive

I always run 91-93 Octane in my 1330 and my wife's 998. Its hard to find gas w/o 10% ethanol. I also religiously add 1oz. of Liquid Performance synthetic fuel treatment to each tank. Stops ethanol problems and makes a big difference in performance, slightly in mileage. These are expensive machines; treat 'em right.
 
Unfortunately, this is a multi-faceted question. So, a 1-answer fits all approach is probably missing the mark.
.............
So, now that I've bored you to tears. We'll move on. (That is if you've even bothered to get this far!) :roflblack:
.........................
Now, about the oil you're using! :roflblack:

I always love technical, detailed explanations. Thanks, BajaRon, for taking the time to write this. And go ahead and tell us about the oil we should be using! I just bought my first 2 quarts today! Stuck with exactly the one recommended in my manual. :D
 
I always love technical, detailed explanations. Thanks, BajaRon, for taking the time to write this. And go ahead and tell us about the oil we should be using! I just bought my first 2 quarts today! Stuck with exactly the one recommended in my manual. :D

I was kidding about the oil. I'd get excommunicated from Spyderlovers if I started another oil thread. There is probably more written about oil in these cyber pages than any other single subject except the Spyder itself.

If you really want my opinion just PM me. I'd be more than happy to share once more. :ohyea:
 
I have a 2012 as well. Brian Kay gave me a heads up about a station that sells 100% pure gasoline and I have been using it ever since. My 2012 RT runs great on this stuff. However when I am on the road I put in the highest grade. I tried to put in the lowest grade just as an experiment and the bike had a rough time starting. I ran all of that out put in the pure gas and she purred like a kitten. Just my 2 Cents.:ohyea:
 
I am no mechanic, but when I spend 20-30K on a machine, I will always use the recommended octane in the owners manual. For motorcycles, Harleys included, they always recommend 91 or above. I cannot tell you why or how 91 or higher is better, but I am assuming BRP, and other manufacturers, didn't make the number up by chance. I take good care of my motorcycles and if that means spending an extra 3-4 bucks at a fill-up, so be it. Just my two cents.

My V Strom takes 87 and it runs fine on it. I put premium in the Spyder and the Voyager because it is recommended but I have used regular when that was all that was available.
 
One thing to remember about your Spyder (or any 'computer managed engine' for that matter) is that they actually take running at least a few tanks full of a 'different grade' of gas for them to really learn how to get the best from it - so if you always run 87 & you decide to try just one tank of 95, then you aren't necessarily going to immediately get the best (performance, fuel economy, whatever) that is possible from the engine while running on that grade of gas... even if you do let the engine idle for 10-15 mins to let the ECU learn & settle before blasting off after filling with a different grade of fuel! :sour:

Apparently, it usually takes about 3 or 4 tanks full of a different grade of gas before the ECU re-sets itself completely in order to let it get the absolute best from the different burn & performance parameters provided by that grade of gas... it usually takes that sort of engine running time & variety of operational use to cover the entire range of variables the ECU has to learn about & then actually settle down to getting on with giving you the best performance & fuel economy it's able to give you. A few jobs test driving various vehicles to determine (amongst other things) what it took to achieve their best 'on road' fuel economy figures on different brands & grades of fuel (& tires, & tire wear, & oils, etc) & what those figures were was very educational; as was one summer spent driving 10's of thousands of kilometres travelling all the way around the country with a bus load of egg-heads following & analysing absolutely everything about the way I drove & how different things (eg the fuel grade, fuel temp, tire pressures, average road speed, ambient temps, road temps, & heaps more besides) effected fuel economy & performance.... And it all drove home that it took running those 3-4 tanks full of whatever your chosen grade of gas - swapping for just one tank full could have the engine running like a dog or feeling fantastic straight away, but that could settle/change as you ran more of the same, & it took at least 3-4 tanks full for the computer (& everything else) to settle so you could get a reliable (& repeatable) result. ;)

Me, given my 'druthers I run my 2013 RT on our ethanol free Hi-octane stuff, it gives me about 20% better fuel economy than the lower grades & the Spyder feels/sounds a helluva lot better doing so too.... but running just one tank of lower grade gas every now & then doesn't make a massive difference in the long run; altho I've seen the insides of too many 'ethanol destroyed' engines to run ethanol at any percentage too often unless there's absolutely no other choice!! Due to the better fuel economy I get on the Hi-octane gas, for me, the price difference hasta be more than 20c per LITRE (about 80c per gal?) before it costs me any more to run the expensive stuff, & that's not even taking the benefits from the better performance & potential for less long term engine damage that I get from running the hi octane stuff into account!

YMMV, but I'm happy, & ride more/further as a result :thumbup:
 
I was kidding about the oil. I'd get excommunicated from Spyderlovers if I started another oil thread. There is probably more written about oil in these cyber pages than any other single subject except the Spyder itself.

If you really want my opinion just PM me. I'd be more than happy to share once more. :ohyea:

Thanks for restraining your opinion on oil Ron. I am a little stressed out right now and not sure what my reaction would have been!
:joke:

Jack
 
Happy i purchased my spark plug /wire kit from Ron. I had no clue about the thermal paste and Ron incudes it in the kit. Thx!


Unfortunately, this is a multi-faceted question. So, a 1-answer fits all approach is probably missing the mark.

1- The 998 is a high to very high compression engine (depending on model and year). High compression encourages Knock or Pre-Ignition which can destroy an engine in pretty short order. (This is when the fuel ignites BEFORE the piston reaches the top of the stroke, basically trying to run backwards) Very Bad!

2- Lower octane fuels have more energy potential than high octane fuels, (contrary to popular belief encouraged by sometimes misleading advertising). So, you ask, then why do high HP engines require High Octane fuel if there is less energy contained in that fuel? Good question with a fairly simple answer. Higher compression gives you more HP but requires a lower energy fuel to keep it healthy. The increase in HP from the higher compression ratio more than offsets the loss in HP from the lower energy fuel.

So then you ask, why does a lower energy fuel COST MORE!? Another good question. Because the additive which raises Octane is much more expensive than the volume of fuel it replaces. Plus, High Octane fuel sells in much lower volume than low octane fuel. Like anything else. High volume sales usually makes the product less expensive.

So, now that I've bored you to tears. We'll move on. (That is if you've even bothered to get this far!) :roflblack:

3- In cooler weather and low load situations (like running down the highway on flat ground at a steady speed), Knock is not usually an issue. So using low octane fuel will probably give you better fuel mileage without any downside and save you some money at the pump too! Nirvana! You say! Well, not exactly.

4- If you are pulling heavy loads, climbing hills or mountains or doing anything that works the engine fairly hard. Or, if you are running in very warm to hot weather. This, plus the high compression engine are most certainly going to put you into situation #1- Knock or Pre-Ignition mode.

In a normal engine you would be risking your motor. But!

5- The Spyder, being a modern engine, has a computer which monitors and regulates cylinder head (combustion chamber) temperature. This is one reason it is so important to put Thermal Paste (NOT Anti-Seize) on your spark plug threads! If the computer senses temperatures which could cause Knock or Pre-Ignition, the computer takes steps to reduce those temperatures. Kind of like an engine protection Nanny. To do this the computer retards ignition timing. That works GREAT for cooling down the combustion chamber and preventing the dreaded KNOCK! But it also reduces power and MPG. The more the computer has to retard ignition timing, the greater the loss.

So, the hotter, harder and more loaded the conditions, the more you need higher octane fuel.

Will the Spyder run on just about anything? Yes.

Will it have more power and get better fuel mileage on low octane fuel? Under the right conditions, probably.

Will the Spyder have more power and get better fuel mileage with high octane fuel? Absolutely! Under any condition that would otherwise cause knock (which are many).

Will your Spyder ever experience engine destroying Knock or Pre-Ignition with low octane fuel? No. The computer pretty much takes care of this at the expense of power and MPG when necessary.

Should you run 91 or higher octane? In my opinion, yes you should.

Now, about the oil you're using! :roflblack:
 
Taken right from the pages of your owner's manual:

Regular unleaded gasoline (fuel which may contain
up to 10% MAX ethanol)
Inside North America Recommended for optimum performance: 91 (R+M)/2.
Fuel Minimum: 87 (R+M)/2
Octane
no.
Outside North America Recommended for optimum performance: 95 RON.
Minimum: 92 RON
Fuel tank capacity 25 L (6.6 U.S. gal.)


That is correct information for the OP's 2012. Its different for 2013 and newer.
 
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