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What does the cotter pin on the rear axle do?

Regardless of their reasoning: having it doesn't hurt anything, and it might just help an awful lot (If things go sideways!) nojoke
 
Maybe, but more likely they use a plain nut to save time and cost.

If the plain nut was installed to facilitate a hitch as the primary reason behind using the plain nut, most likely Can Am would supply the nut in the hitch kit.

Like I said. For simplified engineering. I disagree with your second statement about them supplying a plain nut with the hitch kit. That would mean they would have to keep 3 different nuts on hand. A castle nut for the axle, castle nut for the hitch, and plain nut for the axle when hitch installed. Plus it would mean nut removal, nut installation, re-torquing, and setting belt tension everytime the hitch is installed or removed. Simplicity is the key.
 
Like I said. For simplified engineering. I disagree with your second statement about them supplying a plain nut with the hitch kit. That would mean they would have to keep 3 different nuts on hand. A castle nut for the axle, castle nut for the hitch, and plain nut for the axle when hitch installed. Plus it would mean nut removal, nut installation, re-torquing, and setting belt tension everytime the hitch is installed or removed. Simplicity is the key.

You are the genius in these matters. Therefore whatever you say regarding your nuts I will abide by.
 
Thanks for the input guys. My final thoughts on the matter are

This is the first time I have seen the use of a cotter pin with a plain nut. Usually I see a castle nut or a washer that bears against the cotterpin in a relatively loose assembly..

It seems to me that the cotter pin is there only to prevent the loss of the components and not assure the security of the assembly.

I will continue to use the cotter pin or replace it with a hairpin type clip which is reusable because that is what Can Am intended and because Can Am parts are not cheap or readily available, i.e lost nut. Cotter pins though are cheap and readily available.

Happy New Year All!!

Eckhard
 
We regularly check the belt when doing an alignment. We have found 18’s with no cotter pin. As a result, we put a new one in. Cheap insurance and piece of mind. Any Home Depot has them. Ride safe!
 
We regularly check the belt when doing an alignment. We have found 18’s with no cotter pin. As a result, we put a new one in. Cheap insurance and piece of mind. Any Home Depot has them. Ride safe!
 
Our 2015 RTS SE6 Special Series has a tow hitch with a castle nut and a cotter pin. We bought it used last Nov. :thumbup:
 
My trailer hitch was installed by the dealer before I took delivery of a new 2018 RT-L. I removed it for the first time the other day getting the Spyder ready for a rear tire swap. Much to my surprise not only was there no cotter pin, but the axle nut and washer were missing! After 8,000 miles, apparently the only thing securing the rear wheel was the trailer hitch. Metric nuts that size are not easy to find. Found one finally at a hardware specialty store. The dealer then installed the correct nut and washer.
Another thing I found interesting is the cotter pin hole. It is drilled through only one side of the hollow axle shaft. I couldn't run a cotter pin all the way through if I wanted to. If I decide to run without the trailer hitch and feel that the cotter pin is necessary, I'll probably drill through the other side. Anyone else out there have a similar occurrence?
 
My 2018 RTL has no cotter pin from the factory. In fact, it has only one side drilled where the cotter pin is supposed to go. I have considered finishing the drill job and installing one. Anyone else seen this?
 
My trailer hitch was installed by the dealer before I took delivery of a new 2018 RT-L. I removed it for the first time the other day getting the Spyder ready for a rear tire swap. Much to my surprise not only was there no cotter pin, but the axle nut and washer were missing! After 8,000 miles, apparently the only thing securing the rear wheel was the trailer hitch. Metric nuts that size are not easy to find. Found one finally at a hardware specialty store. The dealer then installed the correct nut and washer.
Another thing I found interesting is the cotter pin hole. It is drilled through only one side of the hollow axle shaft. I couldn't run a cotter pin all the way through if I wanted to. If I decide to run without the trailer hitch and feel that the cotter pin is necessary, I'll probably drill through the other side. Anyone else out there have a similar occurrence?

My 2018 RTL has no cotter pin from the factory. In fact, it has only one side drilled where the cotter pin is supposed to go. I have considered finishing the drill job and installing one. Anyone else seen this?

Interestingly, the parts diagram for the 2018 does not show a cotter pin like the older years do. It's either an oversight during the design of the 2018 or BRP decided it's not needed. The parts diagram for the 2019 doesn't show a cotter pin either. 2017 & earlier show the cotter pin. The axle part number has remained the same though. This is a question for BRPCare to answer.

Something is fishy. Since the part number is the same the axle should be the same which means it should be drilled all the way through. If the axle was intentionally changed to eliminate the cotter pin then the part # should have been changed.

I suggest you both make sure the dealer is aware of this, AND that they report it to BRP. Ask to see the answer from BRP.
 
Not on the Spyder, but the same principal..............

I got a custom axle for a springer front end and it came with fancy chrome acorn nuts. I took the acorn nuts off and put castle nuts on it, then drilled the axle for cotter pins. Not as purdy as the chrome acorn nuts, but I feel better riding it. It was kind of surprising how easy it was to drill the axle.

rocker-wheel%20(6).jpg
 
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