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What comes in the Oil change kit and what goes where?

Q

Questions

New member
Here are a couple of questions for all you techies out there. I am taking my Spyder to a motorcycle repair shop thatI used for years on my Harley. He has helped me with various mods. I am going to let him change my oil.

Friday I went to the dealer to get the filter and gaskets. Here are my questions. Does the O ring come with the filter or to I have to buy it separate. It wasn't in the box so I need to know if I have to get on them for it not being in the box or buy one. Secondly, the two copper gaskets. In a post about oil changes it states a different gasket for the motor (part 420250640) and the resevoir (part 705500506). They sold me two of the first gasket. I have a RS SM5.

Appreciate your help. My dealer is pretty good, although a bit expensive.

Jim
 
oil filter O ring is separate item. it's "normally" not included...

and "if" you're mechanically inclined... do your own oil change
from time to time. it'll give you a whole new perspective on
what has to be done for an oil change. and no knocks to an H-D
Tech... but this is a bike that is set up VERY differently than a
Harley. you maybe shoving a good person under the bus, by
asking them to do something they're not comfortable with... ;)
 
The copper crush washers should be replaced each oil change but we cheat from time to time. If its in good shape I just turn it over and use it again. Another thing that is often missed is the oil strainer should be removed and cleaned each oil change so you will need another o ring for that as well as a worm clamp for the hose that attaches to the oil strainer . Next oil change you should check out Bajan Ron a site sponsor that sells oil change kits that include everything you need as well as the oil at hard to beat prices . You may very well be asking your HD tech to tread down a path that is very unfamiliar to him without a service manual .:dontknow:
 
Last edited:
OIL CHANGING

It is not rocket science...it is not complicated, ...you need few tools,....you will feel soooooooooo good about yourself afterwards,....and check out BAJARON ( see Home Page ) great products , even better service....PS the'yr video's on this site to guide you thru this....go for it
 
Lamont did a very good step by step on how to change the oil. You may want to show the tech the thread before they start. I once asked a motorcycle shop about changing the oil on my Spyder and they said that they tried it on one and really screwed it up so they weren't interested in trying again. It is fairly easy if you follow Lamont's instructions. Good Luck.
 
Changing your own oil is not difficult if you have some simple instructions (Lamont's video is a good place to start). I don't know of another source that sells the needed seals with the filters like I do but they are usually available separately at dealerships. The price I paid was about $7.00 for the O-Ring and $1.25 each for the copper washers at a dealership. My seal kit includes all 3 for $4.95 (or less if purchased with filters).

I also include the O-Ring with the SE5 transmission filter. You can see what I carry by clicking on my banner ad on the Home page.



Or you can PM me or Email me at [email protected] if I can be of any help.​
 
Oil Change

Thanks for all the advice. I am having second and third thoughts about using him, even though he volunteered. I have always used a dealer or shop I knew of as I have NO ability at all. I have to buy light bulbs that have instructions on which way to unscrew them. I also like the security of knowing it was done right (yeah, I know about all the dealer horror stories). Think I'll fork over the extra bucks and let dealer do it. He has always treated me right and returned my bike to me with all the parts it went in with.

Jim
 
JamesL said:
Thanks for all the advice. I am having second and third thoughts about using him, even though he volunteered. I have always used a dealer or shop I knew of as I have NO ability at all. I have to buy light bulbs that have instructions on which way to unscrew them. I also like the security of knowing it was done right (yeah, I know about all the dealer horror stories). Think I'll fork over the extra bucks and let dealer do it. He has always treated me right and returned my bike to me with all the parts it went in with.

Jim
Click to expand...

If you have a service manual handy he should have no problem at all... you should also pull the oil screen every couple of oil changes and clean it out. All this is detailed in the service manual.

Maybe see if you can assist him with it and learn along with him....... 6 pack of beer is a good start for such an event..... ;)
 
Firefly said:
you should also pull the oil screen every couple of oil changes and clean it out.
Click to expand...
I'm not saying not to check it but I was wondering if anyone ever found anything in their oil screen? Wouldn't that mean it got past the oil filter?
 
The thing that i picked up on on your initial post is that you have an SM5 and it only requires one oil filter per change. the SE5 has 2 filters, one for the oil chamber and one for the clutch chamber. but since they sold you 2 of the same part, you're just ready for the next 3000 miler.
 
Rando said:
I'm not saying not to check it but I was wondering if anyone ever found anything in their oil screen? Wouldn't that mean it got past the oil filter?
Click to expand...
Debris on the screen would be stuff that was sorted out before the oil pump and filter, not after. The screen is on the pump intake (oil tank outlet) tube. One of my RTs had a tiny amount of debris on the screen at the 600 mile check. None of our Spyders have had any since. Debris in the oil tank after the initial check is typically from contamination from something falling through the fill opening, or debris off a funnel. Initially, you could have metallic debris from the machining process (I had a shaving). Later debris could be from damaged engine that returned contaminated oil to the tank. The main reason for having the screen (and for checking it) is to head off problems before they cause catistrophic failure.
 
gold plugs

I recommend that in addition to Bajaron's oil change kit you purchase a set of hex head drain plugs. Replaced the original drain plugs on both my RS/GS and now the RT with the gold plugs. Much nicer to work with a socket wrench than a Torx allen wrench. I believe others have found replacements at auto parts stores. I ordered mine online.
 
BRP Kit

My dealer now carries the BRP oil change kit for the SE5. It has everything needed in a box that fits in the frunk. I just did my last oil change 1000 miles ago and the Spyder is happy. Box kit is under $100 and doing it myself was very cool.
 
MMcc said:
I recommend that in addition to Bajaron's oil change kit you purchase a set of hex head drain plugs. Replaced the original drain plugs on both my RS/GS and now the RT with the gold plugs. Much nicer to work with a socket wrench than a Torx allen wrench. I believe others have found replacements at auto parts stores. I ordered mine online.
Click to expand...

:agree: Here are the sizes of gold plugs needed. Engine Drain plug 12mm x 1.5, Reservoir 14mm x 1.5. I also use the filters from Bajron, Just got 3 sets of filter in the mail today and the Amsoil will be here anytime now. :yes:
 
I changed my own oil, bought the kit and it had evrything in it O rings and washers from the dealer and read the owners manual to do the work to complete the change. For my 600 mile check up I let the dealer do it, but when I went to do it myself I noticed that the engine plug had been stipped out a little but I was able to get it out and put it back. After you get the oil chage done you may want to check to be sure they have not messed anything up. Don't mean to scare you but nobody cares for your bike like you do!
 
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