What are the CURRENT belt specs for the 1330? Is 210# ok?

[Allen42]

In researching a vibration I get around 70-75mph, I've found a LOT of information about belt tensioning. However, the recommendations seem like they have changed over time.

It looks like BRP even changed their official specs, but I cannot seem to figure out what the current specs and recommendations are.

So what is the actual current min/recommended/max belt tension measured in pounds (KriKit) on the top of the belt, halfway between sprockets?

I see many people saying they run at about 180, which if I believe the pages I'm finding, is below BRPs minimum?

My dealer set it to about 210#, according to the krikit, and like I said, I do have a little vibration at about 72 mph-ish. (Also, a very short but similar vibration at about 10 mph when starting from a dead stop.)

Is 210 ok, or should I go through the trouble of trying to adjust it? Or should I get BajaRon's dampener? Or SpyderExtras?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

In researching a vibration I get around 70-75mph, I've found a LOT of information about belt tensioning. However, the recommendations seem like they have changed over time.

It looks like BRP even changed their official specs, but I cannot seem to figure out what the current specs and recommendations are.

So what is the actual current min/recommended/max belt tension measured in pounds (KriKut) on the top of the belt, halfway between sprockets?

I see many people saying they run at about 180, which if I believe the pages I'm finding, is below BRPs minimum?

My dealer set it to about 210#, according to the krikit, and like I said, I do have a little vibration at about 72 mph-ish. (Also a very short but similar vibration at about 10 mph when starting from a dead stop.)

Is 210 ok, or should I go through the trouble or trying to adjust it? Or should I get BajaRon's dampener? Or SpyderExtras?

I can't give you the exact OEM specs from BRP... However, 100's if not thousands of members here are using the GATES lbs. using the KritKit tool (from BajaRon) .... I have a '14 RT and measure with the wheel on the ground (it's easier and just as accurate - so why raise the tire???) I use 160 lbs +/-) and have NO belt vibes... Good Luck... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Allen42]

I can't give you the exact OEM specs from BRP ..... however 100's if not thousands of members her are using the GATES lbs. using the KritKit tool ( form bajaRon ) .... I have a14 RT and measure with the wheel on the ground ( it's easier and just as accurate - so why raise the tire ???? ) I use 160 lbs +/- ) and hvae NO belt vibes .....good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

Yes I have the same Krikit that Ron recommends (but no longer sells), and measured along the top, at halfway, with wheel on the ground. I did it a few times until I got consistent readings (didn't bump anything as I removed it to look at it.)

I bought "Gates 91132 Krikit V-Ribbed Belt Tension Gauge , Black" from Amazon.
https://a.co/d/03ghRowk

BlueKnight, if you could respond to my DIY questions here (https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?159489-Is-it-OK-to-adjust-belt-with-rear-wheel-off-the-ground-in-gear-amp-running&p=1710553#post1710553) , I would very much appreciate it.

 

[BajaRon]

In researching a vibration I get around 70-75mph, I've found a LOT of information about belt tensioning. However, the recommendations seem like they have changed over time.

It looks like BRP even changed their official specs, but I cannot seem to figure out what the current specs and recommendations are.

So what is the actual current min/recommended/max belt tension measured in pounds (KriKit) on the top of the belt, halfway between sprockets?

I see many people saying they run at about 180, which if I believe the pages I'm finding, is below BRPs minimum?

My dealer set it to about 210#, according to the krikit, and like I said, I do have a little vibration at about 72 mph-ish. (Also, a very short but similar vibration at about 10 mph when starting from a dead stop.)

Is 210 ok, or should I go through the trouble of trying to adjust it? Or should I get BajaRon's dampener? Or SpyderExtras?

The current belt tension specs are posted in several places here on Spyderlovers.com. Though the manual gives it in Newtons which then need to be converted to Lbs. for the average person.

There is a wide range between the upper and lower tension specs and it varies with year and model. We recommend the 2008-2012 be set between 120 - 160 and the 2013-current be set at 200-260. This is an on the ground reading. And you're right, BRP has changed this setting several times. The original Spyders where set way too high. The belt has a working tension at just over 600 lbs. But the bearings (engine output shaft and rear wheel) can't take nearly that much and they were being destroyed at the original factory specs. So much for 'The Engineers know what they are doing!' statement that we often hear. I would also throw in the original oil filters which were so poorly designed that they were destroying engines. But I digress.

The tension spec was lowered several times in those early years. Then in 2013 when BRP re-engineered a good number of things on the Spyder, including the above mentioned bearings, the tension spec was raised to the current numbers.

A long belt is always going to vibrate at some point. You can move it around with tension changes. But you'll not eliminate it that way. Though you may be able to move it to a speed that you don't often reach if you don't ride very fast.

Personally, it doesn't bother me at all. Ride a 441 BSA Victor for awhile and you'll be just fine with a little belt vibration in the Spyder. But to each his own. To truly get belt vibration to go away, you'll need a vibration dampener (typically mis-labeled a belt tensioner). But that mod comes with its own downsides.

Yes I have the same Krikit that Ron recommends (but no longer sells), and measured along the top, at halfway, with wheel on the ground. I did it a few times until I got consistent readings (didn't bump anything as I removed it to look at it.)

I bought "Gates 91132 Krikit V-Ribbed Belt Tension Gauge , Black" from Amazon.
https://a.co/d/03ghRowk

BlueKnight, if you could respond to my DIY questions here (https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?159489-Is-it-OK-to-adjust-belt-with-rear-wheel-off-the-ground-in-gear-amp-running&p=1710553#post1710553) , I would very much appreciate it.

Not sure where the information came from. But we've carried this Krikit II belt tension gauge continuously since the beginning.

 

[Allen42]

Not sure where the information came from. But we've carried this Krikit II belt tension gauge continuously since the beginning.

My apologies. I could not find it on your site, and would have definitely bought it from you if I did.

(I drilled into Spyder, checked "in stock" and found 51 items, none of which were the krikit. I just went back and also searched for "krikit" and get zero results. Am I on the right site? https://bajarons.com/search?search-...ticle,page&options[unavailable_products]=last)

 

[PMK]

Allen42, you are asking about the actual belt tension specs, and must consider that the published specs are set with the wheel off the ground, and suspension at full droop. This method provides an accurate and repeatable means since the rear shock is fully extended when checked.

If you follow along with what others profess, they disregard the procedure and belt tension specs published by BRP.

Checking the tension reading with weight on the rear wheel gives a variable in the alignment of the gearbox output shaft, swingarm pivot, and rear axle. Weight on the rear wheel can move those three points in a way that adds tension or reduces tension.

Folks setting tension to 160 weight on wheels, seems to be a self derived belt tension, not based on manufacturers publications, where they experimented until they found something they liked.

All the best however you determine your best path to a belt tension you like. Just realize the tension numbers mentioned do not interchange between method used to check tension.

 

[BajaRon]

My apologies. I could not find it on your site, and would have definitely bought it from you if I did.

(I drilled into Spyder, checked "in stock" and found 51 items, none of which were the krikit. I just went back and also searched for "krikit" and get zero results. Am I on the right site? https://bajarons.com/search?search-...ticle,page&options[unavailable_products]=last)

You are on the correct site. However, we were not able to populate the site with everything we carry before the riding season got crazy (as it does every year) and there are a number of things we sell that are not yet listed. It's not important where you get the Kirkit II. Just that you have one so that you can check your belt tension. Especially if you have the 'Experts' set if for you. Blowing a rear wheel bearing, or much worse, an output shaft bearing, is very Not Good!

I recommend checking on work done any time you are able. From oil changes to belt tension and alignment. Even the best of us can make mistakes. We've had customers come in with overfilled and underfilled oil levels, brake jobs where the old pads (rear) were not changed, sway bars were the components were not tightened properly, and alignments where the locking nuts were left loose. I hate that I feel the need to mention this. But checking the work (when possible) can save a lot of grief.

We have found that many times, the customer will do a better job than a dealership. This, of course, is not always true. There are great dealerships and mechanics out there. But knowing a little about your ride, enough to check on some of the simpler things, is always a good thing. It's not rocket science. The average person can usually do much more in this area than they realize. And there are many who will help if you have questions.

 

[Allen42]

To truly get belt vibration to go away, you'll need a vibration dampener (typically mis-labeled a belt tensioner). But that mod comes with its own downsides.

I think you have me convinced to just leave the tension alone as #210 is still within their newest factory specs, and it only happens for a short while. while going up through 70-75mph.

But... what are the downsides of adding the dampener? That was my option #2 until you said that.

 

[BajaRon]

Allen42, you are asking about the actual belt tension specs, and must consider that the published specs are set with the wheel off the ground, and suspension at full droop. This method provides an accurate and repeatable means since the rear shock is fully extended when checked.

If you follow along with what others profess, they disregard the procedure and belt tension specs published by BRP.

Checking the tension reading with weight on the rear wheel gives a variable in the alignment of the gearbox output shaft, swingarm pivot, and rear axle. Weight on the rear wheel can move those three points in a way that adds tension or reduces tension.

Folks setting tension to 160 weight on wheels, seems to be a self derived belt tension, not based on manufacturers publications, where they experimented until they found something they liked.

All the best however you determine your best path to a belt tension you like. Just realize the tension numbers mentioned do not interchange between method used to check tension.

This is quite true. If you use the manufacturer's specs, the wheel must be off the ground. On the ground numbers will be higher. However, most people are not going to do this, nor is it necessary. And, of course, it is much more convenient to check tension on the ground. So, what we did was take tension readings with the wheel off the ground, and then on the ground to convert the OEM numbers to on the ground numbers. The prescribed spread for belt tension is so wide that a variance of a few pounds is not important.

Then we tested with vibration dampeners (typically mislabeled Belt Tensioners) and, as expected, the change in actual belt tension was negligible because they are not designed to adjust tension, but to reduce or eliminate the harmonic vibration of the belt.

I think you have me convinced to just leave the tension alone as #210 is still within their newest factory specs, and it only happens for a short while. while going up through 70-75mph.

But... what are the downsides of adding the dampener? That was my option #2 until you said that.

Depending on the wheel size, those little buggers can spin at 30,000 RPM or more at speed. If the bearing fails, the wheel will come off and the bearing shaft will come down on the belt. This will destroy the belt before you realize what is going on. So, if you do get a dampener, it is important to get a quality one (I don't recommend the BRP product unless you upgrade the wheel and bearing components). And then keep an eye on it. It is a simple matter to lift the wheel off the belt and spin it with your hand. If it isn't completely smooth, then replace the bearing.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Allen42, you are asking about the actual belt tension specs, and must consider that the published specs are set with the wheel off the ground, and suspension at full droop. This method provides an accurate and repeatable means since the rear shock is fully extended when checked.

If you follow along with what others profess, they disregard the procedure and belt tension specs published by BRP.

Checking the tension reading with weight on the rear wheel gives a variable in the alignment of the gearbox output shaft, swingarm pivot, and rear axle. Weight on the rear wheel can move those three points in a way that adds tension or reduces tension.

Folks setting tension to 160 weight on wheels, seems to be a self derived belt tension, not based on manufacturers publications, where they experimented until they found something they liked.

All the best however you determine your best path to a belt tension you like. Just realize the tension numbers mentioned do not interchange between method used to check tension.

Explain to me the difference between measuring the belt tension while the tire is raised (writing down the number) then lowering the tire to the ground and measuring the Tension again. The number will be different ..... BUT using the 'tire on the ground tension' from there on will mimic what it was in the AIR ......Mike :thumbup:

 

[BajaRon]

Explain to me the difference between measuring the belt tension while the tire is raised (writing down the number) then lowering the tire to the ground and measuring the Tension again. The number will be different ..... BUT using the 'tire on the ground tension' from there on will mimic what it was in the AIR ......Mike :thumbup:

You're right, Mike. It's a simple matter of converting one number to comparable another. Though the wheel off the ground reading will be more accurate (repeatable), as PMK mentions, due to a consistent stop point as opposed to a variable stop point with the wheel on the ground. The extremely wide spread in acceptable tension makes this a moot point.

 

[PMK]

Explain to me the difference between measuring the belt tension while the tire is raised (writing down the number) then lowering the tire to the ground and measuring the Tension again. The number will be different ..... BUT using the 'tire on the ground tension' from there on will mimic what it was in the AIR ......Mike :thumbup:

The benefit of checking / setting tension with the wheel off the ground offers a means to an easily repeatable hard point setting.

When checked with weight on wheels, the obvious variable is the chassis ride height at that moment. Fuel weighs 6lb / gallon, so about 30 ish pounds possible difference from fuel load. Then the possibility of how much junk is in the trunk.

I just find that when setting a belt tension just easier to give the owner the lbf amount and mention it is no weight on wheels.

 

[BajaRon]

The benefit of checking / setting tension with the wheel off the ground offers a means to an easily repeatable hard point setting.

When checked with weight on wheels, the obvious variable is the chassis ride height at that moment. Fuel weighs 6lb / gallon, so about 30 ish pounds possible difference from fuel load. Then the possibility of how much junk is in the trunk.

I just find that when setting a belt tension just easier to give the owner the lbf amount and mention it is no weight on wheels.

With most of the load being born by the front wheels, it is our experience that you're looking at about a 5 lb. difference in tension variation. With a 40 lb. (or greater) spread in the tension spec, it isn't worth the bother of lifting the Spyder for most.