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WHAT A DIFFERENCE UPGRADED SHOCKS MAKE

buck1234

New member
Hello All;

Installed the 2011 RT front shocks last week and had to wait out 5 days of rain for a test ride. Yesterday, Sunday the 27th the test ride was on. This route I have ridden over 150 times in the last 20 years on a number of bikes. It's about 150 miles and has probably as many curves as The Dragon.

The bikes set up is: Evizione sway bar
2011 RT shocks #4 setting
Stock tires - 20psi front - 26psi rear
Heli Riser handlebar spacer

SM5 2009


Mines road, Livermore, Ca. To State 130 West, San Antonio Valley to Lick Observatory, Mt Hamilton To San Jose Ca. Hwy 101 North

The lack of that annoying lean in hard cornering is the first wonderful difference. I can't prove it but it seemed as if I used less effort to turn and at the end of the ride I really wasn't as tired. Of course I could just have been jazzed. Twisties for mile after mile is fun but you do get tired so any improvement is good, even if only in your mind.

Overall handling and ride were super. There is one con that may break the deal for some. The added stiffness will make the roads bumps and whoop de doos a bit more pronounced. On the other hand those corners with the pavement sloped to the outside are a lot easier and can be navigated more surely and a bit faster.

Conclusion:

If your riding style is conservative then possibly a new sway bar and shocks is not in your future.

But if you want to explore better handling for those twistie urges, I recommend a reasonably priced upgrade to the 2011 RT front shocks.

I was on the fence and when BRP came out with the new shock for 2011 and the upgrades they built in, I was sold.

I AM A HAPPY CAMPER! :2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs:

Buck1234
 
Did you notice any improvements with the sway bar only, or where the improvement in ride after you added the 2011 shocks?
 
Hello All;

Installed the 2011 RT front shocks last week and had to wait out 5 days of rain for a test ride. Yesterday, Sunday the 27th the test ride was on. This route I have ridden over 150 times in the last 20 years on a number of bikes. It's about 150 miles and has probably as many curves as The Dragon.

The bikes set up is: Evizione sway bar
2011 RT shocks #4 setting
Stock tires - 20psi front - 26psi rear
Heli Riser handlebar spacer

SM5 2009


Mines road, Livermore, Ca. To State 130 West, San Antonio Valley to Lick Observatory, Mt Hamilton To San Jose Ca. Hwy 101 North

The lack of that annoying lean in hard cornering is the first wonderful difference. I can't prove it but it seemed as if I used less effort to turn and at the end of the ride I really wasn't as tired. Of course I could just have been jazzed. Twisties for mile after mile is fun but you do get tired so any improvement is good, even if only in your mind.

Overall handling and ride were super. There is one con that may break the deal for some. The added stiffness will make the roads bumps and whoop de doos a bit more pronounced. On the other hand those corners with the pavement sloped to the outside are a lot easier and can be navigated more surely and a bit faster.

Conclusion:

If your riding style is conservative then possibly a new sway bar and shocks is not in your future.

But if you want to explore better handling for those twistie urges, I recommend a reasonably priced upgrade to the 2011 RT front shocks.

I was on the fence and when BRP came out with the new shock for 2011 and the upgrades they built in, I was sold.

I AM A HAPPY CAMPER! :2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs:

Buck1234

I'd lower those front tire pressures if you're feeling that many road bumps. I have the same setup as you and run mine at 16-17 most the time.... :thumbup:
 
:dontknow: If the F**King snow and the cold weather would go away. I would like to try my :spyder: (2008)with the new 2010 front shocks & springs and sway bar That I installed last fall and never really got a chance to drive very far. Maybe by the time we get back from Mexico(April 5th) it will be warm enough to ride again
 
I'm doing upgrades to suspension one at a time. I'm getting the Evolutione sway installed first. I want to see what just that does first. RT shocks will be next if I am not satisfied with the handling.

I am a conservative ryder. But, most of my ryding is done two up with my husband on the back. Since it's "just the two of us" in this world, no kids, just our dogs, I want to make sure as much as possible that we return home to our dogs after each ryde. So, no pushing the limits of the Spyder for me.

But, there was this awful roll to the Spyder with so much more weight on the back of it. I'm not too thrilled with the handling. I'm hoping the sway bar helps a lot. But, if RT shocks are required to get the handling to where I want it, then that's what I will do. I will report how I like the addition of just the sway bar.
 
I'm doing upgrades to suspension one at a time. I'm getting the Evolutione sway installed first. I want to see what just that does first. RT shocks will be next if I am not satisfied with the handling.

I am a conservative ryder. But, most of my ryding is done two up with my husband on the back. Since it's "just the two of us" in this world, no kids, just our dogs, I want to make sure as much as possible that we return home to our dogs after each ryde. So, no pushing the limits of the Spyder for me.

But, there was this awful roll to the Spyder with so much more weight on the back of it. I'm not too thrilled with the handling. I'm hoping the sway bar helps a lot. But, if RT shocks are required to get the handling to where I want it, then that's what I will do. I will report how I like the addition of just the sway bar.

You don't have to go fast or be aggresive to garner the benefits of a stiffer suspension. I believe that that roll you speak of will almost be eliminated partialy with the sway bar. With the heavier and adjustable shocks with 2 up riding that roll will all but disapear.

Note: Honda Goldwings have a suspension system you dial in for 1 up HWY, 2 up and sport cornering. All it really is how stiff the suspension is tightened up. Exactly the same for the Spyder, just we use big chanel locks to adjust the tension not a switch on the dash.

You can always buy them and install and if it's a no go for you it was only 4 bolts to work with and someone else will buy them off of you no problem.

Buck1234
 
I'd lower those front tire pressures if you're feeling that many road bumps. I have the same setup as you and run mine at 16-17 most the time.... :thumbup:

Tried it at those pressures and just a little to much lean (roll). I may not be going fast or aggresive but the roads around SF bay area hills and out to the ocean can kick your A**. For my 230lbs + 20psi works the best. Plus all that shaking keeps the coctail shaker moving in the drink holder on the handlebar:thumbup:

Buck1234
 
I run 20/30 on my Spyder. And the suspension cranked all the way up. Yes, the ryde is a bit bumpy with just me on it. But it's just fine with two up. Since two up is most of my ryding, I just leave things the same.

As usual, money continues to be an issue. So, sway bar now, RT shocks maybe sometimes in the future. I've spent this year's budget already. Just bought a new jacket too. That didn't help! ;)
 
I'm doing upgrades to suspension one at a time. I'm getting the Evolutione sway installed first. I want to see what just that does first. RT shocks will be next if I am not satisfied with the handling.

I am a conservative ryder. But, most of my ryding is done two up with my husband on the back. Since it's "just the two of us" in this world, no kids, just our dogs, I want to make sure as much as possible that we return home to our dogs after each ryde. So, no pushing the limits of the Spyder for me.

But, there was this awful roll to the Spyder with so much more weight on the back of it. I'm not too thrilled with the handling. I'm hoping the sway bar helps a lot. But, if RT shocks are required to get the handling to where I want it, then that's what I will do. I will report how I like the addition of just the sway bar.

I think that's a good plan-- and how I did mine. Put the Evo sway bar on the INNER holes for the tighter setting. Get used to the difference it makes and then add the shocks.

1 related mod at a time isn't such a bad idea-- that way you'll know if something gets screwed up what it is.
 
2010 vs. 2011shocks

Is there not a noticeable difference between the 2 years of RT shocks.2011 have stiffer springs but is the shock valving the same?:dontknow:Is the 2010 package not the preferred set-up for most converting on their RS?
 
Is there not a noticeable difference between the 2 years of RT shocks.2011 have stiffer springs but is the shock valving the same?:dontknow:Is the 2010 package not the preferred set-up for most converting on their RS?
Other way around, the 2011 RT shocks have more shock damping, but the same spring rate as the 2010 RT. The 2010 shock damping and spring rate are both heavier than the RS, so that seems to be the best setup for an RS swap. The 2011 RT shock could be a bit much. You have to be able to keep the tires on the ground.
 
I added the RT shocks first...see a huge difference...is a lot tighter...I'm sure the sway bar will make a difference too...but I'll be waiting on that for a bit longer...next up will be a new shield...
 
Tried it at those pressures and just a little to much lean (roll). I may not be going fast or aggresive but the roads around SF bay area hills and out to the ocean can kick your A**. For my 230lbs + 20psi works the best. Plus all that shaking keeps the coctail shaker moving in the drink holder on the handlebar:thumbup:

Buck1234

I hear ya Buck. I ended up splitting the difference on the fronts and went 18.5. I know, I can already hear "What? Why the half pound?" I just read my digital reading and adjust accordingly. And for soome reason, 18.5 just feels good to me. I am willing to bet that if I used another gage it would read 19 or 18, but I like to stay with one source, so 18.5 it is! At least I'm not doing 1/2 pound less in the right any more! :D Since the DPS and the front end alignment I can just go equal on each end now.

I have to say that I am a bit surprised that BRP is still putting that same crap shock on the RS, given how much data exists now on how bad it is. It just doesn't make any sense to me. :dontknow:
 
I have to say that I am a bit surprised that BRP is still putting that same crap shock on the RS, given how much data exists now on how bad it is. It just doesn't make any sense to me. :dontknow:[/QUOTE]I'm with you on this Raptor,BRP offer at least 3 levels of shocks for their sleds so I dont know why they wouldn't offer a optional re-buildable gas shock alternative to the fart in a bag shock now coming stock.This would be a money maker for them as a lot of Spyderlovers are looking at a upgrade.
 
Without any doubt I would throw my $.02 at doing the shocks before the swaybar. The shocks function 100% of the time and change the attitude of the bike completely. The sway bar is only in turns, and in ones needing a stiffer one will be needed to notice the improvements there.

It is an absolute pleasure to drive down any road and have 100% confidence in the Spyders response to the blemishes in the road.

Please, I am not looking to be bashed here. It is just my opinion now. But without any doubt BRP should have the 2010 RT shock assemblies on the RS or at least the RS-S's... When going any speed our RSS now stays in the lane and no longer do we have to work the steering as much as we did before.

I am rambling here a little, but Man... If you get the chance just do it. It is worth every penny to change the front factory RS shocks to the RT's or another aftermarket kit. Hands down the single most impactful item and value for my money so far.
 
Without any doubt I would throw my $.02 at doing the shocks before the swaybar. The shocks function 100% of the time and change the attitude of the bike completely. The sway bar is only in turns, and in ones needing a stiffer one will be needed to notice the improvements there.

It is an absolute pleasure to drive down any road and have 100% confidence in the Spyders response to the blemishes in the road.

Please, I am not looking to be bashed here. It is just my opinion now. But without any doubt BRP should have the 2010 RT shock assemblies on the RS or at least the RS-S's... When going any speed our RSS now stays in the lane and no longer do we have to work the steering as much as we did before.

I am rambling here a little, but Man... If you get the chance just do it. It is worth every penny to change the front factory RS shocks to the RT's or another aftermarket kit. Hands down the single most impactful item and value for my money so far.

I agree with you and I also think the stock shocks aren't that bad. It really depends on how hard you ride the bike. Most aren't into hard turns and top-end speed...they ride the bike for fun and for the open air experience. For this intent, the stock shocks are more than adequate.

For me, I like a combination of hard riding and relaxed riding. I went with the shocks first as they simply made more sense to me...the RTs are clearly stiffer and they hold a lot nicer on twisties. I had my originals at setting 4 and the bike would rebound a little too much if I hit a sharp twisty at a fast speed. The RT shocks are set at 4 and there is no 'roll back' at all...much stiffer feel and this is comforting.

As far as the swaybar goes, I'm sure this only adds to the experience. Most everyone really likes it. However, I would like a better shield first as this is a little more practical for me at this time. I'm really into ways to reduce wind noise while riding.

On that note, I ordered some sound proofing material for my helmet...will have to see how that works...and yes, I do wear ear plugs....
 
I really was unhappy with my RT - couldn`t find a good "line" here in the mountains - as they changed the steering AND the new 2011 shocks (which is now 100% better than before !) - I cannot say better steering or better shocks maybe both. I can drive more exact in the curves and need less space - much better feeling in the curves.. would do it once again .. testvideo here :
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lYvtgN8tyrw[/ame]
 
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