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There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
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- Thread starter Roadster Renovations
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Roadster Renovations
New member
You may be right and I hope you are. I was under the assumption BRP bought Rotax. Is that not so?
Yes. BRP owns Rotax. Highly-regarded engine manufacturer; makes aircraft engines, also. BRP bought them several years ago.
JayBros
Well-known member
Have kicked this topic around with ulflyer over a number of Sunday breakfasts and I think the bottom line is since you've parted with lots of coin to get your Spyder from which all of us want long, reliable service, it's worth a few bucks to have whatever oil you use, or want to use, analyzed and make your selection based on the analysis. As I always tell my wife, numbers have no feeling; they just are. The BRP XPS blend may be fine and meet the parameters that Rotax has established for the engine at 9,300 mile intervals. I've just been an automotive full synthetic fan, specifically Mobil 1 in both 5W-30 and 20W-50, and hope the 4T 10W-40 motorcycle oil performs as well.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
PRICING
Check Walmart.......You may have to order it on-line and have it sent to the store for pick-up......shipping is free.......Mike :thumbup:
Check Walmart.......You may have to order it on-line and have it sent to the store for pick-up......shipping is free.......Mike :thumbup:
azcpl85711
New member
I was contemplating between Mobil 1 and Amsoil, since I run Mobil 1 in all my vehicles and past motorcycle with excellent results I stayed with it.
ulflyer
Active member
In a follow on to Doc's #60 post above about viscosity, for those reading this that might not know what the viscosity numbers mean that he got from his lab tests, here is a chart that you look them up on:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/viscosity-charts/
The chart shows that oil viscosity tested in the 8 to 9.5 range is a low to high 20W.
I've been testing nearly every oil change on my previous '11 RT and now on the '14 RT and they both test out about the same depending on the oil used. My tests show that most good synthetic oils hold up very well from 3-4000K miles, at that point being in the 30W range.
I've decided that from now on, I'm going to set my change level at 4500 to 5000 miles with filters every other time.
I don't contest what BRP Steve says about running oil to 9300miles but I'm just not comfortable with that, knowing that the oil will be down in the low range of 20W or so. However, most all new cars are now running a 0W-20, and some are going to even thinner oil in the near future. The question is, can the 1330 motor last for thousands of miles running on thin oil? Maybe BRP knows and perhaps that was implied by BRP Steve saying it was safe to run the long miles. I don't know that and will do two changes instead of one. I do my own so the cost is not an issue for me.
Not touting any one oil as I don't know yet how Mobil 1 will test out for me, but Amsoil and Valvoline has tested very well. Valvoline is now $8.69 at Walmart in my area with Mobil1 just under $10.
Pretty hard to beat BajaRons package deals for Amsoil. I get it at a discount and can't beat his prices. I suspect he snitches it off the loading dock somewhere! LOL...kidding Ron.
BTW, I'm running Mobil 1 for the first time with nearly 5K on it now and will be testing it shortly. Willl report here what I find.
'
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/viscosity-charts/
The chart shows that oil viscosity tested in the 8 to 9.5 range is a low to high 20W.
I've been testing nearly every oil change on my previous '11 RT and now on the '14 RT and they both test out about the same depending on the oil used. My tests show that most good synthetic oils hold up very well from 3-4000K miles, at that point being in the 30W range.
I've decided that from now on, I'm going to set my change level at 4500 to 5000 miles with filters every other time.
I don't contest what BRP Steve says about running oil to 9300miles but I'm just not comfortable with that, knowing that the oil will be down in the low range of 20W or so. However, most all new cars are now running a 0W-20, and some are going to even thinner oil in the near future. The question is, can the 1330 motor last for thousands of miles running on thin oil? Maybe BRP knows and perhaps that was implied by BRP Steve saying it was safe to run the long miles. I don't know that and will do two changes instead of one. I do my own so the cost is not an issue for me.
Not touting any one oil as I don't know yet how Mobil 1 will test out for me, but Amsoil and Valvoline has tested very well. Valvoline is now $8.69 at Walmart in my area with Mobil1 just under $10.
Pretty hard to beat BajaRons package deals for Amsoil. I get it at a discount and can't beat his prices. I suspect he snitches it off the loading dock somewhere! LOL...kidding Ron.
BTW, I'm running Mobil 1 for the first time with nearly 5K on it now and will be testing it shortly. Willl report here what I find.
'
Xyzzy
New member
The more oil analysis reports I see the more convinced I am that a "cheaper" oil (Rotella 15W40) changed more frequently makes the most sense. BRP recommends a synthetic or semi-synthetic oil but I think they say that to possibly mitigate the issue of 9,300 mile oil changes. Even a "cheap" fancy oil at $10 a quart for 5,000 miles seems suboptimal to me.
5 x $10 x 2 = $100 for two oil changes per 10,000 miles.
5 x $4 x 3 = $60 for three oil changes per 9,000 miles.
(Not counting o-rings and filters. Assuming one filter change per 9,000/10,000 miles.)
Most people will say that it is foolish to pinch pennies on a $20,000+ vehicle. I contend that my "cheap oil" strategy is not only cheaper but more protective for the engine. The catch is that I have the time (and desire) to do oil changes whereas most people want to push OCIs as far as possible for convenience. I push my Corvette to 12,000 miles but I use full synthetic oil and my Corvette doesn't use engine oil in the transmission.
I just completed a fuels and lubrication course at my local community college. It was a very interesting course. I am working towards an AAS in diesel technology. Anyways, in the course, over and over, they stressed that the number one factor for lubrication selection was the proper viscosity at the operating temperature of the machine.
YMMV
5 x $10 x 2 = $100 for two oil changes per 10,000 miles.
5 x $4 x 3 = $60 for three oil changes per 9,000 miles.
(Not counting o-rings and filters. Assuming one filter change per 9,000/10,000 miles.)
Most people will say that it is foolish to pinch pennies on a $20,000+ vehicle. I contend that my "cheap oil" strategy is not only cheaper but more protective for the engine. The catch is that I have the time (and desire) to do oil changes whereas most people want to push OCIs as far as possible for convenience. I push my Corvette to 12,000 miles but I use full synthetic oil and my Corvette doesn't use engine oil in the transmission.
I just completed a fuels and lubrication course at my local community college. It was a very interesting course. I am working towards an AAS in diesel technology. Anyways, in the course, over and over, they stressed that the number one factor for lubrication selection was the proper viscosity at the operating temperature of the machine.
YMMV
TEHelms
New member
Just as an aside...
You guys are very technical and I have a great deal of appreciation for that so a couple of things.
First, I have to remember that the engines in the Spyder run at a considerably higher rpm range than does an automobile engine and that's a factor in my mind. Second, I grew up around a lumber yard where my father had any number of trucks that put in 10+ years and over a 100k before he ever traded them in. In all those years I worked for him we never had an engine failure and I'm talking about from the 50's to the 2000's. I did most of the oil changes for him and they were never on a rigid schedule. He used Gulf 30 weight in everything and I always changed the filter when I changed the oil. Again, never an engine failure. Now that could have just been luck but I doubt it. Longevity is certainly something I appreciate but I do wonder if there's been any appreciable number of engine failures due to oil breaking down? It would be interesting to know from dealers/owners/BRP if there are any reports.
I enjoy the discussions by the way so please take this as not a knock on anything, just an observation from an old guy.
You guys are very technical and I have a great deal of appreciation for that so a couple of things.
First, I have to remember that the engines in the Spyder run at a considerably higher rpm range than does an automobile engine and that's a factor in my mind. Second, I grew up around a lumber yard where my father had any number of trucks that put in 10+ years and over a 100k before he ever traded them in. In all those years I worked for him we never had an engine failure and I'm talking about from the 50's to the 2000's. I did most of the oil changes for him and they were never on a rigid schedule. He used Gulf 30 weight in everything and I always changed the filter when I changed the oil. Again, never an engine failure. Now that could have just been luck but I doubt it. Longevity is certainly something I appreciate but I do wonder if there's been any appreciable number of engine failures due to oil breaking down? It would be interesting to know from dealers/owners/BRP if there are any reports.
I enjoy the discussions by the way so please take this as not a knock on anything, just an observation from an old guy.
Tango
Well-known member
I have been to two dealers for oil changes. Both stress BRP oil. They both had other oils in stock. The problem I see is, you can't find 5-40 oil that is motorcycle (JASO) compliant. BRP, Bel-Ray, and Shell Rotella are the only three that I know of. Using the "wrong" weight oil gives them an out if you have an engine problem. Will you have an engine problem? I'm at 99.9% no. Butt, what if? A friend of mine had a warranty problem with Victory over his oil choice. They eventually settled for a 50-50 split. :dontknow: Tom :spyder:
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
OIL WEIGHTS
Tango, the difference between 5w40 and 10w40 is minimal.........if you use 2-stroke oil instead of 4-stroke oil THAT is going to be a problem........As long as you are using an OIL that MEETS or EXCEEDS BRP's recommendations they can't void or deny the warranty....Mike :thumbup:
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Xyzzy
New member
I went around 15 miles past the last bar on the gas gauge going out today. Not by choice! I just forgot and the low fuel light is real hard to see. Anyways, my new "gallons added" record is 6.344 gallons.
:thumbup:
The more oil analysis reports I see the more confused I get. I get it that the BRP oils shear down to 20W in about 2K miles. This is where the confusion comes in. We have "boutique" oil, readily available synthetic oil, readily available dino oil, readily available diesel oil, 5W-40, 10W-40, 15W-40, and 20W-50?????? Not to mention the prices for these oils are all over the map.
It looks like there is no "right" answer to this debate. Speaking in broad generalities, what I see is that various "camps" have come about on this issue: XPS, Amsoil, Mobil1 and dino/diesel. The common factor is the JASO MA or MA2 rating(certified or exceeds). One question I have is, what is the oil change interval on the pure petroleum based oils??????
ulflyer
Active member
Mike, I ran Rotella T 15-50 conventional oil for 3000 miles and it tested at 11.5 (mid-30W). It would surely be good
thru 4000 and maybe more. Might be a good oil for those of
us that do two changes per filter on our 1330's, and certainly reasonably priced, under $15 a gal I think.
I believe there are some that have been running this oil, especially in the 998's, if only they would do a lab test above my 3000 miles and let us know. From my experience both engines shear at about the same rate.
I'm very much interested in the Amsoil auto gas/diesel with an MA rating that I reported earlier. Had I known about this oil I would have used it for the change I did last week with Valvoline Syn. Nothing wrong with Valvoline but I've tested it before and would like to try something new.
thru 4000 and maybe more. Might be a good oil for those of
us that do two changes per filter on our 1330's, and certainly reasonably priced, under $15 a gal I think.
I believe there are some that have been running this oil, especially in the 998's, if only they would do a lab test above my 3000 miles and let us know. From my experience both engines shear at about the same rate.
I'm very much interested in the Amsoil auto gas/diesel with an MA rating that I reported earlier. Had I known about this oil I would have used it for the change I did last week with Valvoline Syn. Nothing wrong with Valvoline but I've tested it before and would like to try something new.
Many modern auto oils have molybdenum added and with motorcycle engines having a wet clutch, moly coats everything with a slippery concoction. As the oil is shared between the engine and the clutch, the clutch becomes infected by it and slips accordingly. In that case you have to strip it down and wash all the parts and reassemble, a buddy of mine suggest using diesel for a few miles to flush it out then fresh oil for a day or so then another change to seal the deal.
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ulflyer
Active member
Many diesel oils contain Moly, Rotella T for example that is rated Jaso MA. Of the cycle oils I've tested, Valvoline contains the least and Mobil 1 the most. I noticed that Jaybro's lab report of BRP oil contained no significant amount of Moly.
I guess the question is, how much is too much? I've never read the answer to that.
And while diesel is an old school trick for trying to clean sludge out of an engine (most times it does more harm once the sludge cuts loose), I would never, ever, run it in an engine that also shares the oil with the trans and clutch.....no way!
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Here is an interesting read for you from S.A.E. http://www.sae.org/search/?qt=Motorcycle+oils&x=0&y=0
and Cal-sci on oil filters http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html
The A.P.I. Site isn't as easy to navigate as the S.A.E. Site, plenty of reading for .. years..
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and Cal-sci on oil filters http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html
The A.P.I. Site isn't as easy to navigate as the S.A.E. Site, plenty of reading for .. years..
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Mike(blueknight) posted yesterday that WalMart has Valvoline Full Synthetic 4T 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil @$35.00/6pack($5.83/qt) +tax. Shipping either to your house or your closest WalMart is FREE. I decided this was too good a deal to pass up, especially when my servicing dealer was cool with it. I'll be joining the Full Syn 10W-40 oil club @my first service at the end of September.
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