• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Went to Mobile 1

The Napa kit contains a small plastic bottle the instructions say should be 3/4 full, that's 3-4 oz. The instructions also say the sample should be taken within 30 minutes of turning off the engine. On the information sheet you send with the sample they want to know, inter alia, the miles on the unit, the miles on the oil and if the oil filter was changed at the time the engine was filled with the oil being sampled.
 
FWIW

I just switched to Rotella 15W40 "dino" oil. I previously had the OEM blend first and then Rotella T6. I changed from the OEM blend to Rotella T6 at 1,500 miles (early) because that is just what I do. I switched from the Rotella T6 at 3,000 miles due to less-than-ideal shifting. (I am very picky I guess?)

I switched to Rotella 15W40 because I plan to change it every 3,000 miles. Almost any oil (of the proper viscosity) will perform adequately for a small interval like that. Rotella 15W40 is JASO MA2 certified. The biggest issue (for me) with intervals beyond 3,000 miles is (shared sump) shearing. I would use the Rotella T6 but it shifts noticeably rougher with it. The Rotella 15W40 is slicker shifting and it is easier to find neutral. I can get the Rotella 15W40 for under $15 a gallon if I look a little. I will replace the filter every 9,000 miles. (I changed the filter at 1,500.) I will replace the two metal crush washers every 3,000 miles. I will examine the sump plug o-rings with a magnifying glass and if they look fine I will reuse them, but I will replace them every 9,000 miles. I like the smaller viscosity spread of 15W40 than 5W40. I don't mind changing oil. I find it relaxing and I like to work on my stuff. I recycle the oil so I am not hurting the environment. I am not worried about the engine warranty. This is not my first rodeo.

YMMV
 
WELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL

Xyzzy said:
FWIW

I just switched to Rotella 15W40 "dino" oil. I previously had the OEM blend first and then Rotella T6. I changed from the OEM blend to Rotella T6 at 1,500 miles (early) because that is just what I do. I switched from the Rotella T6 at 3,000 miles due to less-than-ideal shifting. (I am very picky I guess?)

I switched to Rotella 15W40 because I plan to change it every 3,000 miles. Almost any oil (of the proper viscosity) will perform adequately for a small interval like that. Rotella 15W40 is JASO MA2 certified. The biggest issue (for me) with intervals beyond 3,000 miles is (shared sump) shearing. I would use the Rotella T6 but it shifts noticeably rougher with it. The Rotella 15W40 is slicker shifting and it is easier to find neutral. I can get the Rotella 15W40 for under $15 a gallon if I look a little. I will replace the filter every 9,000 miles. (I changed the filter at 1,500.) I will replace the two metal crush washers every 3,000 miles. I will examine the sump plug o-rings with a magnifying glass and if they look fine I will reuse them, but I will replace them every 9,000 miles. I like the smaller viscosity spread of 15W40 than 5W40. I don't mind changing oil. I find it relaxing and I like to work on my stuff. I recycle the oil so I am not hurting the environment. I am not worried about the engine warranty. This is not my first rodeo.

YMMV
Click to expand...
:yikes:...............I THINK EVERYONE HERE WOULD LOVE TO KNOW WHAT ENGINE YOU HAVE ???????????...................It makes a difference .....................Mike :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
Better gas mileage?

It seems my gas mileage has improved 3-5 mpg since putting in the M1. The bike is also starting right up. It had always cranked for a few seconds before. Now it starts right up. Since the oil is the only thing I've done, it pretty much has to be it.
And Mike T, after you get your initial break-in service is done, I'll change your oil for you. You watch me a few times, you will be doing your own in no time if you want. With the lift, it is a piece of cake!
 
BLUEKNIGHT911 said:
:yikes:...............I THINK EVERYONE HERE WOULD LOVE TO KNOW WHAT ENGINE YOU HAVE ???????????...................It makes a difference .....................Mike :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
Click to expand...

I have the ACE 1330. I'm in the right subforum I hope!

max.gif
 
Xyzzy said:
FWIW

I just switched to Rotella 15W40 "dino" oil. I previously had the OEM blend first and then Rotella T6.

I switched to Rotella 15W40 because I plan to change it every 3,000 miles. Almost any oil (of the proper viscosity) will perform adequately for a small interval like that. Rotella 15W40 is JASO MA2 certified. The biggest issue (for me) with intervals beyond 3,000 miles is (shared sump) shearing. YMMV
Click to expand...

You will be fine with that oil for 3000. I tested it in my '14 RT at 3K and it came back with a viscosity cST100C @ 11.5, which on BITOG scale is a mid-upper 30W.
 
Doc Humphreys said:
It seems my gas mileage has improved 3-5 mpg since putting in the M1.
Click to expand...

I'd like to think that the Mob 1 change has resulted in better mileage which I have gotten over the last 1,500 miles, on the order of 2+ mpg, but I've also upped my shifting points. I've also ditched ECO mode. Too many variables changed to identify the key one.
 
I used the 4T in my 2008 Ninja 650r and had no issues. At some point I will be making the change if the results come back good :D and I believe they will. More MPG!?!? Who wouldn't want to change it!?????
 
MarkLawson said:
I the early days of this forum, the motorcycle blend of Mobil-1 was reported to have caused clutch slippage, resulting in costly repairs. I remember Scotty (Nancy'sToy) recommending it not be used. I don't recall which Mobil-1 was used, V-Twin or the one mention by the OP of this thread. I have used the 4T on my GL1800A for years without a problem.
Click to expand...

The Mobil 1 in question was the 4T 10/40 (the V Twin is 20/50 for air-cooled V Twins that specify the higher viscosity). 4T is rated JASO MA-1 and is indeed a very good oil. I put over 100K on my GL1800 with mostly 4T in it. At 100K it consumed very little oil, hardly any more than when it was new. Never had a trace of clutch slippage. Honda specified JASO MA in the owner's manuals back then which was before JASO came out with two spec's -- MA-1 and MA-2. My GL1800 was an '03 and I see yours is '01. Since Honda spec'd JASO MA, by default that means that under the new system, MA-1 would be fine. Unfortunately BRP chooses to not provide any such information so we can make an informed decision, instead just saying "Trust us. Use BRP oil". There were anecdotal reports of clutch slippage with 4T so some people, such as Scotty, figured why take a chance? Good MA-2 oils are available so why not use them? The open question here is would the 1330's ever develop slippage with an MA-1 rated oil? Do they need MA-2? Since we have no engineering or scientific evidence either way, you pays your money and you takes your chance. Individual decision. Neither one is right nor wrong.
 
gypsy_100 said:
The Mobil 1 in question was the 4T 10/40 (the V Twin is 20/50 for air-cooled V Twins that specify the higher viscosity). 4T is rated JASO MA-1 and is indeed a very good oil. I put over 100K on my GL1800 with mostly 4T in it. At 100K it consumed very little oil, hardly any more than when it was new. Never had a trace of clutch slippage. Honda specified JASO MA in the owner's manuals back then which was before JASO came out with two spec's -- MA-1 and MA-2. My GL1800 was an '03 and I see yours is '01. Since Honda spec'd JASO MA, by default that means that under the new system, MA-1 would be fine. Unfortunately BRP chooses to not provide any such information so we can make an informed decision, instead just saying "Trust us. Use BRP oil". There were anecdotal reports of clutch slippage with 4T so some people, such as Scotty, figured why take a chance? Good MA-2 oils are available so why not use them? The open question here is would the 1330's ever develop slippage with an MA-1 rated oil? Do they need MA-2? Since we have no engineering or scientific evidence either way, you pays your money and you takes your chance. Individual decision. Neither one is right nor wrong.
Click to expand...

We now have over 500 miles on the new oil (in 4 days) and I have not noticed even the hint of a slip and I can guarantee we are probably moving more total mass than 99% out there. If anything, I think it grabs better. I have been really paying attention, also. I may be wrong, but I think the M1 clutch slippage was due to cage oil, not the 4t oil.
 
Doc Humphreys said:
We now have over 500 miles on the new oil (in 4 days) and I have not noticed even the hint of a slip and I can guarantee we are probably moving more total mass than 99% out there. If anything, I think it grabs better. I have been really paying attention, also. I may be wrong, but I think the M1 clutch slippage was due to cage oil, not the 4t oil.
Click to expand...

Glad to hear the Mobil 1 4T is doing well. As I said, I always liked it in the 'Wing. I know there were many cases of automotive oil being the culprit in clutch slippage, including automotive Mobil 1. I recall there were a few instances of motorcycle oil 4T resulting in slippage but I'd be hard pressed to prove it. My memory is as fallible as anyone's.
 
PK, here's Steve M's correction to what was erroneously published in the F3 operator's guide.
 
Last edited:
PMK said:
Not true. The owners manual (Page 123 of the 2015 RT owners Guide) specifies requirements for the oil beyond the BRP brand. Read the snip of the owners manual I attached. Read it for what is stated not some wanker BS misinterpretation.

I try and avoid these oil topics now since there are so many opinions without fact or simply misinformation.

PK
Click to expand...

Chill out, please. I made my comment for a little relaxed tongue-in-cheek humor. If the only way you can make your point is to call me obnoxious names and claim I don't deal in facts, then you are the one misinterpreting. Check my posts. Facts. When an opinion, it's clearly labeled as such. This is exactly why I stopped posting on this forum for a long time. Didn't even read it. Wasn't worth it. Who wants to read posts where everyone is just calling each other names? Thought things in this forum were getting better. Guess I was wrong. Time to disappear again.
 
.....and, back to this awesome M1 oil, I ran a tank out (at least until the low fuel came on) and got right at 200 miles! It held 5.4 gallons when filled up, so that's about 37-38 miles per gallon. At an additional 5 miles per gallon over 5,000 miles, at around $3.00 a gallon, that gives about 1/2 gallon, or $1.50 a tank. That would be 25 tanks, or almost $40. The better mileage paid for the filter and almost 3 quarts of oil....... Not bad!!

Now I realize these figures are just averages, but I am impressed.
 
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