Well, here it goes again.

[bluestratos]

Just got another limp mode screen again this morning. She started and was warming up and then stalled, after that she would not stay running for about 10 restarts but eventually she did start and the code was P1120 and another one that I could not catch in time. It then ran ok so I took it around the block but 1/2 around she did it again and this time I got P16C7 code. I went into check the manual and yes, all to do with the crappy throttle body.

I have had the latest update, the throttle controls replaced once and the throttle senser replaced three times. Good lord this is crazy, I thought they got it last time as I got over 3000 miles without trouble up to now. So... back to the shop which means renting a trailer, loosing time from work and waiting 2 weeks to get it back again. My prayer is that I get hit by a semi on the way so I end this misery.

By the way after I left it to check out the codes then came back she started and ran fine for 75 miles with a dozen restarts or more along the way. Of course this is just the calm before the storm as I know there is no magic and the problem will come back in spades eventually.

Well Carlos, give me a call again, you have the number and lets talk about a better fix, lol.


Randy

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Do you have Best warranty? You could get it towed with their roadside assistance. Good luck and I hope you get it fixed once and for all.

 

[Farmboy]

Sorry to be seeing this. Some of us is unlucky to have the "Venereal throttle body disease", it could show up at any time.

 

[Bob Denman]

What a bummer! :gaah: It seems to me that the 2010 models had one Throttle body issue, and the later models had a whole different headache to deal with... Can anybody put the difference between the 2 in a nutshell that MIGHT make me sound as if I know what I'm talking about?? pps:

This definitely sounds as if your dealer needs a quick call to get the ball rolling. Please let us know what happens; Good Luck! :thumbup:

 

[bluestratos]

Thanks all.

No don't have the best warranty yet, plan to buy this year so I better start looking into it. If it keeps running I may chance driving it to the dealer on Saturday.

Regards,

Randy

 

[Bob Denman]

Sparks, You're the best! :firstplace: Thanks! :clap: :thumbup:

 

[ARtraveler]

A great explanation. I have had the "hot start" issue with my 2010 RT. So far, no problems with the 2011 RT. I am keeping my fingers crossed on this.

 

[ARtraveler]

You are right on the money. That is how I get it to go also.

 

[bluestratos]

So, they keep replacing the parts when they know they will fail sooner or later?

 

[Illinois Boy]

Sorry to butt-in... but this whole issue is killing BRP's reputation with those interested in buying a Spyder. I have a low-mileage '11 RTS-SE5 that just had the TB replaced just at the 4,000 miles. I fully expect the problem to return someday.

The problem is not knowing when it will happen.

The TB problems are beginning to be discussed all over the place on other "bike" sites and such... although, as you can imagine the stories only get better when told by those that have no idea or experience.

If I were BRP... I would have engineers working around the clock on this before their reputation gets hurt worse. I know of several people that were seriously interested in buying one... that is until they witnessed my problems while on a rally ride. It was somewhat embarrassing, and stressful not knowing if I was going to get it home.

Oh well... I still like it though! Go figure that out!

 

[Dudley]

Once again, as I have psted before, I rode my 2010 RT for about 4 months with a bad TB...even went on a round trip of 1600+ miles without ever getting stranded. Had issues starting, but it always started. Found out that if I used the Kill Switch when stopping for gas, etc., it would always start without fail. TBs are a nuisance, but they are not fatal. Once your dealer determines that the TB will be replaced, ride it till he calls. It can be installed in about 2 hours by a good tech. Don't let your dealer keep the Spyder for weeks. All that is needed is the BUDS reading and BRP authorization and you're on your way.

 

[NancysToy]

Once again, as I have psted before, I rode my 2010 RT for about 4 months with a bad TB...even went on a round trip of 1600+ miles without ever getting stranded. Had issues starting, but it always started. Found out that if I used the Kill Switch when stopping for gas, etc., it would always start without fail. TBs are a nuisance, but they are not fatal. Once your dealer determines that the TB will be replaced, ride it till he calls. It can be installed in about 2 hours by a good tech. Don't let your dealer keep the Spyder for weeks. All that is needed is the BUDS reading and BRP authorization and you're on your way.

That worked for you, Dudley, but not for everyone. I always use the kill switch, and my TB failures and limp modes still occurred. Some Spyder have even been stranded by their TB issues. The throttle body problems are variable in their consequences and their occurance. There are no good work-arounds.

 

[Grandpa Spyder]

I'm running a 2012 RTS SE5 and I have never had any issues, Do you believe it is just a matter of time?

 

[Camdenlake]

That worked for you, Dudley, but not for everyone. I always use the kill switch, and my TB failures and limp modes still occurred. Some Spyder have even been stranded by their TB issues. The throttle body problems are variable in their consequences and their occurance. There are no good work-arounds.

:agree: Exactly what happened to mine. Seemed like it was minor at first would always clear (tried the kill switch idea too) then BAM no start just that lovley p1614 code. I would agree that BRP needs to be much more proactive and a perminate fix for this. I would highly suggest anyone with issues to not think it wont die, it may not but it very well could. Stranded is never good at least i was in my garage when mine totally packed up. But new TB and all has been just fine.


Josh

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: