Watts, Amps, Volts-what can Spyder handle?

[jrbloise]

I have a 2009 Spyder SE-5, and want to buy some heated clothing for Winter. But, I don't know if the Spyder's electrical system will accomodate the following: 12V heated pant liner (rated: 35 watts, 2.7 amps, at 12.8 volts), 12V heated socks (rated: 9 watts, ? amps, at 12.8 volts), 12V heated jacket liner (rated: 90 watts, 8 amps, at 13.8 volts, and a dual heat troller (rated: ? watts, 15 amps, at 13.8 volts).
I don't have any other things (electrical) as add-ons. The Spyder has all stock lighting etc. I have Gerbing's 7V battery operated heated gloves, so they won't be connected to 12V system.

Lamonster, or anyone with knowledge of the Spyder's electrical limits who may be able to advise me on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
John

PS: The question marks indicate that the company's web site specs did not mention in the descriptions.

 

[ataDude]

I have a 2009 Spyder SE-5, and want to buy some heated clothing for Winter. But, I don't know if the Spyder's electrical system will accomodate the following: 12V heated pant liner (rated: 35 watts, 2.7 amps, at 12.8 volts), 12V heated socks (rated: 9 watts, ? amps, at 12.8 volts), 12V heated jacket liner (rated: 90 watts, 8 amps, at 13.8 volts, and a dual heat troller (rated: ? watts, 15 amps, at 13.8 volts).
I don't have any other things (electrical) as add-ons. The Spyder has all stock lighting etc. I have Gerbing's 7V battery operated heated gloves, so they won't be connected to 12V system.

Lamonster, or anyone with knowledge of the Spyder's electrical limits who may be able to advise me on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
John

PS: The question marks indicate that the company's web site specs did not mention in the descriptions.

You spec'd about 134 watts - or about 11 amps... the Heat Troller doesn't really have a draw... it regulates the current to the heated gear. Good choice on the Heat Troller, BTW.

The system should be able to handle it OK... I ran 110 watts of extra lighting... plus heated grips at times... and that was no problem. However, that set-up is pretty close to the top of what extras you can use, IMHO.

The Spyder's magneto puts out 500 watts (total) at higher RPM... watch extended idling with that load.

.

 

[truck 85]

The Spyder's magneto puts out 500 watts (total) at higher RPM... watch extended idling with that load.

.[/QUOTE]

What is extend idling?:dontknow:

 

[Magic Man]

Using OHM's law to fill in the missing numbers, it looks like you are adding about additional 11.4 AMP draw to the system depending on RPMs which varies the system voltage with a magneto like the Syder has.

The Spyder magneto is rated @ 40 AMP output max.

Although the output @ 4000 RPMs as per the shop manual is "Approx. 15 to 20 A" (which you can find on page 361 of the service manual)

With a voltage @ 4000 RPMs of "13.0 to 14.8"

As with any magneto system, the higher the RPMs the more the output will increase.

Although the "MAX rated output" may seem to cover the additional load (but remember all the other lights, ECUs, power steering unit , fuel pump and injectors all use power too) at MAX RPM and MAX output. I fear at anything other than almost MAX output you may be running the system in the negative. This condition will be worse the lower your RPMs are and the longer you run at these lower RPM limits.

This being the case, it may seem to work with all these things "on" for a very short time. However, if all these are left on for any length of time esp. at lower RPMs, I fear you will eventually run the battery dead.

MM

 

[NancysToy]

What is extended idling?:dontknow:

Low RPM for any significant length of time. In other words, keep the "R"s up!

Using OHM's law to fill in the missing numbers, it looks like you are adding about additional 11.4 AMP draw to the system depending on RPMs which varies the system voltage with a magneto like the Syder has.

The Spyder magneto is rated @ 40 AMP output max.

Although the output @ 4000 RPMs as per the shop manual is "Approx. 15 to 20 A" (which you can find on page 361 of the service manual)

With a voltage @ 4000 RPMs of "13.0 to 14.8"

As with any magneto system, the higher the RPMs the more the output will increase.

Although the "MAX rated output" may seem to cover the additional load (but remember all the other lights, ECUs, power steering unit , fuel pump and injectors all use power too) at MAX RPM and MAX output. I fear at anything other than almost MAX output you may be running the system in the negative. This condition will be worse the lower your RPMs are and the longer you run at these lower RPM limits.

This being the case, it may seem to work with all these things "on" for a very short time. However, if all these are left on for any length of time esp. at lower RPMs, I fear you will eventually run the battery dead.

MM

:agree: A heated jacket and gloves is pushing the limits, and I would not want the foglights on when I did that. Nancy has used the jacket and gloves together, but I don't dare venture beyond a heated vest on low. You have to be real careful of the RPM, and avoid stop-and-go traffic or city riding like the plague! Always stick the Spyder on a charger (Battery Tender, etc.) after a ride with heated gear.

 

[Lamonster]

:agree:

 

[jrbloise]

Thanks to all who responded

Thanks to all the good folks who responded to my question. So it seems that I'll just have to be very careful with RPM's lower than say - 4000, and especially with stop and go traffic. Another question....if I'm at a red light, can I just unplug the power to the heated clothing until I get back to a high rate of RPMs? Wouldn't that not cause the battery to run down?

Thanks again,

John

PS: I'll also take Scotty's advise and get a battery tender. Can someone recommend the model number to buy?

 

[docdoru]

Low RPM for any significant length of time. In other words, keep the "R"s up!

:agree:

 

[NancysToy]

Thanks to all the good folks who responded to my question. So it seems that I'll just have to be very careful with RPM's lower than say - 4000, and especially with stop and go traffic. Another question....if I'm at a red light, can I just unplug the power to the heated clothing until I get back to a high rate of RPMs? Wouldn't that not cause the battery to run down?

Thanks again,

John

PS: I'll also take Scotty's advise and get a battery tender. Can someone recommend the model number to buy?

John, you can, indeed turn off your heated gear when you get into the slow stuff. No need to unplug, but that works, too. Also, lower settings use a bit less juice. Remember, even at 4,000 RPM the generator output is marginal for this much use. Don't rely on just a magic number. Also remember not to plug in your heated gear until the engine is running, and to unplug before you shut it off.

My favorite motorcycle chargers are the Accumate and Optimate chargers, but I also use Battery Tender Jr. I have two of each of these three. If I were doing it on a Spyder, I'd use the regular Battery Tender, though, not the Jr. The Xtreme charger sold by ESI is about the best out there. Magic Man should be able to fix you up or aim you in the right direction for that. I don't have one, but I put it on my Christmas list along with the Chrome Sh*t. Are you listening, Nancy?