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Warming up Spyder for oil level check

teninospyder

teninospyder

Member
Weather not cooperating :banghead::banghead:
Just DIY'd changed oil/filter/HCM filter, etc. for first time on my own :yes::clap:
Added oil and want to check level. Can't run Spyder in garage (part of house).:lecturef_smilie:
Pouring down rain outside, and "cool" - :yikes:
Real experience if any, please. Can you realistically expect the spyder system to warm up on it's own, if you start it and let it idle under carport in 40+ outside temp for a long (how long?) time?? :dontknow:

UPDATE : Let Spyder sit outside running just now for 20 minutes in 40 degree moist air. The Oil Warning light went out as it should. :thumbup:
Took it for a ride on street outside house. Shifted thru gears up and down. Seemed to be much "softer" than before the oil and filter changes.:clap: Took it out on "local highway section" for 2-3 miles of normal up down shifting. Everything appears to be OK !:bowdown: Brought it home and checked oil PER PROCEDURE. Oil Level is "right at" the upper bubble on the dipstick, but I don't think "over". Will keep an eye on it. :pray:

Thanks to all who helped me out on this.:clap::thumbup:
 
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If you've put in 5.2 qt of oil after changing the oil and HCM filters, start the engine and let it idle until the fans cycle twice (should take more than 10 min), then check the oil within 2 minutes of shutting off the engine, the level should be at the Min mark on the dipstick. If you want to bring the level up somewhere about half way between the Min and Max level I recommend adding in 2 oz increments and run until the fans cycle gain. You just don't want to overfill it. Remember, oil cools as well as lubricates the engine; that's why I add more oil but never bring the dipstick level more than 3/4 of the way up from the Min mark.
 
JayBros said:
If you've put in 5.2 qt of oil after changing the oil and HCM filters, start the engine and let it idle until the fans cycle twice (should take more than 10 min), then check the oil within 2 minutes of shutting off the engine, the level should be at the Min mark on the dipstick. If you want to bring the level up somewhere about half way between the Min and Max level I recommend adding in 2 oz increments and run until the fans cycle gain. You just don't want to overfill it. Remember, oil cools as well as lubricates the engine; that's why I add more oil but never bring the dipstick level more than 3/4 of the way up from the Min mark.
Click to expand...

Appreciate response. Thanks JayBros.
 
teninospyder said:
Weather not cooperating :banghead::banghead:
Just DIY'd changed oil/filter/HCM filter, etc. for first time on my own :yes::clap:
Added oil and want to check level. Can't run Spyder in garage (part of house).:lecturef_smilie:
Pouring down rain outside, and "cool" - :yikes:
Real experience if any, please. Can you realistically expect the spyder system to warm up on it's own, if you start it and let it idle under carport in 40+ outside temp for a long (how long?) time?? :dontknow:
Click to expand...

IF the Oil level isn't EXACTLY Perfect don't be concerned....... Don't waste time and gas.... on a day you do normal ride ( 10+ min. ) do the oil level check as described by Jay...... As He said .. there is a small amount of Oil in the HCM filter, so if that's also changed, 2-4 oz. needs to added to the Normal 5 Qts. ... I normally keep the oil at MID-level on the dipstick - WHY - Overfilled is a problem .... underfilled by a few oz. isn't ....... good luck ... Mike :thumbup:
 
I once unknowingly overfilled my 1330 by about 12 oz. Ran it for over 5000 miles with no ill effects, until the next change . I worry less about oil level now...

What damage is overfilling supposed to cause?
 
If you pulled and replaced both drain plugs and filters and then added 5 or 5.2 quarts of oil, what's the mystery? If you did that and nothing more, you're good. Leave her set until the weather allows you to ride and get it up to temp and then check it. Not to worry, you should be spot on. Don't lose any sleep over it.
 
If the oil is hot to the touch on the dipstick. You're good to go. Too many think that idling until the coolant reaches operating temperature is a good idea. Ignoring the fact that long idle periods are bad for any internal combustion engine. Getting the coolant hot and then checking the engine oil is like boiling water on the stove and then checking water temperature in a pot that has been sitting on the sink the entire time.

You have to ride your Spyder to get the oil to operating temperature. You did good! :thumbup:
 
I agree with Ron, but you'd have really made me proud if you'd told us you replaced the stock drain plugs with hex headed versions!!!
 
I do not disagree at all with Ron. If one changes the oil and filters, installs the correct volume of fresh oil, lets the engine idle for a couple of fan cycles, and then checks the level within two minutes after turning off the engine the oil may not be at operating temperature; however, the idling time will have allowed the scavenge pumps to do their job and return the designed amount of oil to the dry sump tank so the operator can get an accurate dipstick reading.
 
I never let it just sit and idle. I put 5.25 Quarts back in it, and either ride it or just leave it sitting in the shop until the next time I do ride it. Usually check the oil level when getting gas or when returning to the shop after riding it somewhere. It is always about half way between add and full. It never varies. I check it every time I change the oil and when I fill the gas tank.
 
That's the beauty of the 1330 ACE engine. In almost 82K miles the dipstick level has never changed from the amount of oil I've put in it after an oil and filter change, including when I've changed the HCM filter. It uses no accurately owner measurable amount of oil.
 
If I recall correctly, years ago I was told that oil not only lubricates your engine's moving parts, it helps to cool them also. :dontknow:
 
True, although at the crankcase/dry sump volume of the 1330 engine I doubt it's measurable by the user, it's the reason I add additional oil to bring the level about 3/4 of the way to the Max mark after the initial 5 qt, fill when changing just the oil and oil filter. Same applies when including the HCM filter change.
 
Jetfixer said:
I agree with Ron, but you'd have really made me proud if you'd told us you replaced the stock drain plugs with hex headed versions!!!
Click to expand...

Intresting you should say this. There WAS a problem with the transmission drain plug. The 6mm Allen head wrench would not go in at all. From all we could try, it would not go in far enough to allow turning the plug out. :yikes: After much sole searching about what to do......we found that a 40 torx head (given a slight prodding with a plastic mallet) would go in far enough to allow turning the plug out. :yes: Not having anything else available at the time, we finished the job and put the same plug back in using the #40 torx head socket. Looking at it when we had it out, it does appear it "may have been" an allen wrench size at one time and damaged during a prior oil change by a dealer service tech.:banghead: Can't prove anything.....doesn't really matter, except for making sure "next year" I have a new plug to use, when once again I DIY :ohyea: the oil and filter change :D
 
teninospyder said:
Intresting you should say this. There WAS a problem with the transmission drain plug. The 6mm Allen head wrench would not go in at all. From all we could try, it would not go in far enough to allow turning the plug out. :yikes: After much sole searching about what to do......we found that a 40 torx head (given a slight prodding with a plastic mallet) would go in far enough to allow turning the plug out. :yes: Not having anything else available at the time, we finished the job and put the same plug back in using the #40 torx head socket. Looking at it when we had it out, it does appear it "may have been" an allen wrench size at one time and damaged during a prior oil change by a dealer service tech.:banghead: Can't prove anything.....doesn't really matter, except for making sure "next year" I have a new plug to use, when once again I DIY :ohyea: the oil and filter change :D
Click to expand...

Some of the drain plugs are Allen (Hex). Some are Torx. Use the wrong tool and you'll round out the connection making it harder to get the plug out. Also, many get the plug way too tight. Especially dealerships, it seems. I've never seen a plug fall out. But I've seen many that won't come out. They get tighter as they go through Heat/Cool cycles. So, by the time you get ready to do a service. A too tight drain plug is REALLY Too Tight!

Glad you were able to salvage yours.
 
teninospyder said:
Intresting you should say this. There WAS a problem with the transmission drain plug. The 6mm Allen head wrench would not go in at all. From all we could try, it would not go in far enough to allow turning the plug out. :yikes: After much sole searching about what to do......we found that a 40 torx head (given a slight prodding with a plastic mallet) would go in far enough to allow turning the plug out. :yes: Not having anything else available at the time, we finished the job and put the same plug back in using the #40 torx head socket. Looking at it when we had it out, it does appear it "may have been" an allen wrench size at one time and damaged during a prior oil change by a dealer service tech.:banghead: Can't prove anything.....doesn't really matter, except for making sure "next year" I have a new plug to use, when once again I DIY :ohyea: the oil and filter change :D
Click to expand...

Interesting comment as I just experienced the same issue with the transmission drain plug (my first oil change yesterday). As mentioned, the 6mm Allen wrench did not want to go all the way in and to me it seemed more like a torx was required. I did use a 40 torx wrench to eventually get it out as well but did replace both plugs with the hex head versions. Just an FYI but I follow a YouTuber who was able to remove the plug successfully with the 40 torx, but on his second oil change it stripped when he used the same tool. Definitely replacing with the hex head bolts seems like a great idea. I was surprised that the service manual does not identify the drain plug tool that should be used. Just seems to me that would be good information to include especially when each drain plug requires a different type of tool for removal.
 
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