The
first bold bit I've highlighted in the quote is only because whoever did the pre-delivery on that Spyder didn't put the wiring clip in the right place! It's a fairly simple matter to take the wheel off; move the wiring &/or clip so that it's
NOT anywhere it can ever be rubbed or damaged by the wheel, ie, put it where it should have been in the first place; refit the wheel onto the Spyder. And btw, any tire tech worth spit would check for things like this
AND FIX THEM as a matter of 'proper practice' whenever re-installing a new tire on any vehicle!

And just while you've got the wheel off again to sort this, cos the bod doing the job on your Spyder obviously
WASN'T worth spit so probably didn't do this either

... you might also want to check that the hex heads of the screws that hold the fenders onto their support arms aren't sticking out into the wheel space too much - many of us running 175's have found that it's often a good idea to swap those hex head screws that have 10-12mm tall heads out & replace them with pan head screws that only have 5-6mm tall heads so that there's
no chance they'll ever contact the tire sidewalls either. :thumbup:
The
second bold bit, that's just crap!! How can fitting a
NARROWER tire on the same OEM rim make the
NARROWER tire rub on the belt when the
WIDER OEM tire didn't?? :gaah: Besides, even if it is the tire that's the issue (which I don't believe at all in the first place - it's far more likely they just didn't align the
NARROWER wheel assembly that you've chosen to use properly when they re-installed it!!

) then they've just made things
WORSE, not better, by increasing the tire pressure!! :banghead: The higher the pressure in the tire, the further around the wheel the tire deflection will be carried as you corner; so if the tire
is actually contacting the belt on turns at all, then you need to
REDUCE the pressure in it so that the twisting forces transferred from the tread & the road contact patch into the carcass of the tire won't travel/be transferred so far up the casing & sidewalls as that section lifts off the ground once the tire rotates on...
Basically, the most critical things all these comments from them should be telling you is that this dealer/tech/whoever is full of it & likely just doesn't know what they're on about beyond pushing the corporate rubbish they're told to,
so they're saying whatever bunf comes to mind in order to blame YOU for choosing to run better quality/safer tires rather than admitting their inadequacies in that:
1. They haven't done their job properly in the first place, and ensured there's nothing projecting into the wheel well area that shouldn't be when
they refitted the wheel onto the hub; and
2. They haven't done their job properly and made sure that
they've aligned the belt correctly when re-installing the rear wheel, cos if
they HAD, then your tire wouldn't be
ABLE to contact the belt regardless, just like they don't on the hundreds of other Spyders out in the real World that are already running these tires &/or any other non-'OEM Kenda' car tires without any belt contact issues, or any other issues for that matter!! And btw, their comment re not liking to fit car tires raises another point which just confirms even more so/yet again that they've got little idea of what they're on about - cos the OEM Kendas
ARE CAR TIRES, just very lightly constructed car tires with less quality control & a far worse reputation than just about anything else out there,
but they're still Car Tires nonetheless! :banghead: