Vibration

[clueless]

did you take additional pics? good to know

 

[SteveO]

Vibration update

Having had the vibration from new the dealer adjusted the stabilizer bar and the vibration has mostly gone. There is still a little left which confims to me that it is the bar.

I now find I have more idle vibration at start-up so guess there must be a "happy" point in the adjustment.

I need to get under the tupperware to see if there is or has been any contact between the bar and the frame.

So far a huge improvement

 

[SC92]

did you take additional pics? good to know

No unfortunately, I didn't think about i until I had finished the job and by that time it is almost impossible to get a good look at the area, let alone take a pic. Sorry :dontknow:

 

[SC92]

I need to get under the tupperware to see if there is or has been any contact between the bar and the frame.

So far a huge improvement

It will most likely be the bolt or nut that holds the bar to the engine mount, touching the frame bracket support web. (see nut #52 on the exploded view in Lamonsters post #11 in this thread)

 

[Jornie1]

Vibration information

While having my DPS replaced 2 days ago, I had the tech take a look at the vibration dampening rod checking for any point of contact. He adjusted, (losened), my long...front to rear... damper rod and the vibration was reduced considerably but not completely eliminated...He did make a very plausible point. One end of the rods are attached to the engine, the other end to a point on the frame. There is no rubberized damper associated with the rod ends, so.... you already have engine to frame contact with the dampening rods, basically a metal to metal contact. Why would any other point of contact cause vibration. Makes sense to me, with one exception.... If giving the bolts or rods touching the frame some relief stops the vibration..Voila'...problem solved..

Len

Note: The tech didn't look at bolt #52 only the arms.

 

[InspectorGadget]

While having my DPS replaced 2 days ago, I had the tech take a look at the vibration dampening rod checking for any point of contact. He adjusted, (losened), my long...front to rear... damper rod and the vibration was reduced considerably but not completely eliminated...He did make a very plausible point. One end of the rods are attached to the engine, the other end to a point on the frame. There is no rubberized damper associated with the rod ends, so.... you already have engine to frame contact with the dampening rods, basically a metal to metal contact. Why would any other point of contact cause vibration. Makes sense to me, with one exception.... If giving the bolts or rods touching the frame some relief stops the vibration..Voila'...problem solved..

Len

Note: The tech didn't look at bolt #52 only the arms.

Len,
Thanks for the additioanl info. I should be taking my RT in right after the Daytona Biktoberfest weekend and I will have my tech check it out.
Glad to see you made it back home safely. Best to Kim.
C-YA RL

 

[manoman14]

The bolt on the short dampener on mine is rubbing the frame so hard that there is an orangish dust on all nearby parts. Don't see how a technition could possibly dismiss this and say that this is not causing vibration to be present.

 

[SC92]

One end of the rods are attached to the engine, the other end to a point on the frame. There is no rubberized damper associated with the rod ends, so.... you already have engine to frame contact with the dampening rods, basically a metal to metal contact. Why would any other point of contact cause vibration.

Note: The tech didn't look at bolt #52 only the arms.

I, once again refer you back to post #11 by Lamonster, in this thread.

If you look at the dark blue section below the rods you will see it is a rubber mount.
If there was no rubber mount, then the rods would be serving no purpose.

I would worry about your tech, considering he was working in there and did not understand how it works and could not see rubber.

 

[SC92]

Should look like this.

Check out the Schematic and you will see the dark blue rubber engine mount and you will also notice that the two purple rods are fastened to the turquoise engine bracket on one end and the grey bike frame on the other.

It is the nut (#52)on the bolt that hold the short rod to the turquoise plate that is rubbing on the grey frame that is causing this vibration.

 

[spyryder]

Check out the Schematic and you will see the dark blue rubber engine mount and you will also notice that the two purple rods are fastened to the turquoise engine bracket on one end and the grey bike frame on the other.

It is the nut (#52)on the bolt that hold the short rod to the turquoise plate that is rubbing on the grey frame that is causing this vibration.

I believe what Jornie is talking about are those rods being bolted from the engine bracket to the frame without any isolation? That looks like metal to metal contact to me through the rods if those are Heim joints? Or do those 'rod ends' have rubber bushings in them similar to shock absorbers?....if that's the case, then they would be 'isolated'.:f_spider:

 

[SC92]

I believe what Jornie is talking about are those rods being bolted from the engine bracket to the frame without any isolation? That looks like metal to metal contact to me through the rods if those are Heim joints? Or do those 'rod ends' have rubber bushings in them similar to shock absorbers?....if that's the case, then they would be 'isolated'.:f_spider:

The Rods are isolated because one end is bolted to the Frame, the other end is bolted to the engine and the isolation is the rubber mount between the Frame and the engine.

 

[spyryder]

The Rods are isolated because one end is bolted to the Frame, the other end is bolted to the engine and the isolation is the rubber mount between the Frame and the engine.

If the rods DON'T have rubber or neoprene bushings as shown in this pic, then it's METAL to METAL:

 

[SpyderFun]

Had the Spyder serviced and DPS replaced Friday. Took along a copy of this thread. After calling BRP the dealer adjusted the stabilizer rod and the vibration which I have had from new (some 3000m) has gone. They could see no signs of cantact between the bar and frame.

SteveO

Do you know HOW they adjusted it? :shocked:
Did they have to make it longer or shorter? :dontknow:

This may just be an easy fix for others to do versus scheduling a dealer visit.

 

[sinkhole]

stabilizer bars...

Do you know HOW they adjusted it? :shocked:
Did they have to make it longer or shorter? :dontknow:

This may just be an easy fix for others to do versus scheduling a dealer visit.

Just my take:
From the diagram it appears as if the engine mounts/pivots on the rear bolt (part # 31) and mounts in front to plate #35, which is in turn isolated from the frame on rubber pads.
The stabilizer bars apparently are there only to keep the front mount from moving side to side, and fore and aft. I don't know how much adjustment would be possible because the rear mounting bolt should only allow up and down rotational movement.
It would seem as if once the engine is attached in the rear, and mounted to the front plate, that's where it stays, and the bars are adjusted accordingly. If either bar is close to the frame, the knocking would occur when the rubber cushions under the front engine plate compress and rebound, allowing the bar/s to hit a frame member.

 

[bruiser]

Not so good vibes

Yep, that's what mine is doing too. Feel it in the pegs, seat and bars. Talked to my dealer about it several times, standard answer, BRP says that's normal. Guess what I'm going to print out and add to the now growing list for them to check.:gaah:

 

[StriperKing]

I just bought an RT-S and have this exact vibration. I am going to look at it and hopefully fix it tomorrow. I very seldom ever take anything to a dealer. They dont care about your bike like you do. :dontknow: I will post if this fixes or does not fix the problem. Great post.

Oh and to clear the air and some of the post have it correct. The dampener rod does not have to have rubber bushings and can be metal to metal as long as the plate they bolt to has a rubber pad for isolation. If no rubber pad then yes there would have to be rubber bushings but we do have the rubber pad. I work for Toyota Motor Mfg. and they use the same consept in areas that require it. A rubber pad is the way to go! More area = more dampening making the pad the better choice over bushings.

 

[Hobstopper]

Once again kudos to the Spyder community! I took off the front compartment and then the shroud in front of the radiator, shined a flashlight in and low and behold found that the nut on the short linkage rod was against the metal bracket. It had rubbed so much that the bracket had a V shape from the nut.:gaah: Took a dremel and shaved it down, put everything back together and took for a test ride. It is finally smooth with no more vibration.hyea:
Thanks again!

 

[clueless]

good to know! thanks everyone for sharing their experience. just builds more credence when bringing in to shop for fix. :thumbup:

 

[SpyderDon]

Well my :spyder2: went to the dealer last week, 3000 mile oil change, dps, gps and vibration elimination. 75 mile trip this time of year inn't real pleasent, even in good ole Tidewater VA. On the ride back I noticed a difference but not total elimination of the vibration. Was told there is a service bullitin covering the vibration problem. At this point I think I would miss it if it went away completely, knowing that it isn't something that will damage the machine I think I can tolerate it.

As for dps, I noticed no change, hopefully that's a good thing.

Thanks to everyone that had input into this thread, seems that BRP got the message.

 

[sinkhole]

vibration...

If your lateral stabilizer bar is no longer hitting the frame, then the remaining vibratins are more than likely due to engine/belt harmonics. Seems as if it's the nature of the "beast".:spyder: