clueless
New member
NICE :clap:thanks for the update. cant wait to test my spyder out after it gets back from the shop.
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Vibration..More Information!!!
- Thread starter Jornie1
- Start date
NICE :clap:thanks for the update. cant wait to test my spyder out after it gets back from the shop.
J W Miller
New member
After removing much of the front plastic I found no such rubbing of the strut rod head rubbing on anything. I did notice the belt is rubbing on the ouside side of the front pulley. Could this be my viberation problem? my bike is 0000159 one of the first produced. If that means any thing.
Jornie1
New member
Hmmm...Nothing found???
I'm not sure if it is possible to get totally rid of ALL vibration in this machine. I think if you look at the evidence on this thread... Most have had or are having the "Bolt On The Frame" problem. I own two RT's.. Both had this problem and once the nut was moved so as not to be riding on the frame....nearly all vibration .."Emphasis on Nearly All" vibration disappeared.
With a V'twin engine and a very long ribbed belt, it is my contention that there will always be some vibration..
I can attest to the incredible improvement after giving the offending bolt/nut some relief from riding on the frame...... Len
I'm not sure if it is possible to get totally rid of ALL vibration in this machine. I think if you look at the evidence on this thread... Most have had or are having the "Bolt On The Frame" problem. I own two RT's.. Both had this problem and once the nut was moved so as not to be riding on the frame....nearly all vibration .."Emphasis on Nearly All" vibration disappeared.
With a V'twin engine and a very long ribbed belt, it is my contention that there will always be some vibration..
I can attest to the incredible improvement after giving the offending bolt/nut some relief from riding on the frame...... Len
rineer4635
New member
Warranty??
Had mine in for DPS recall, they told me I would have to pay for 4 hours mechanic time to address bolt issue. I told them I am not paying to fix a factory issue.
clueless
New member
Rode the RT today and there is still the vibration but it was about 75% less...
now I am quite happy cruising the highway at 70 mph at 5,000+ RPMs. i didn't notice when I hit 5,000 RPMs like I did before fixing the bolt clearance.
before I would know when I accelerated in 5th gear around 5,000 to 5,500 I could tell by the vibration.
now I am quite happy cruising the highway at 70 mph at 5,000+ RPMs. i didn't notice when I hit 5,000 RPMs like I did before fixing the bolt clearance.
before I would know when I accelerated in 5th gear around 5,000 to 5,500 I could tell by the vibration.
Vibration
I can tell you belt tension is responsible for alot of vibration felt in these machines, I ride a Yamaha Venture and rarely get on my wifes RTS but do nall service , this drive belt IS LONG and seems very sensitive to correct tension, the Rotax V-Twin though a great engine is a V-Twin and will pulse no matter what you do and if you are trying to stop all vibration you bought the wrong machine,I bought this bike for my wife after two goldwing trikes because of the VSS and the fact it it NOT a kit, I explained to her ahead of time this would never be as electrisc smooth as her two previous Wing Trikes but would be safer and fully warranted .
I can tell you belt tension is responsible for alot of vibration felt in these machines, I ride a Yamaha Venture and rarely get on my wifes RTS but do nall service , this drive belt IS LONG and seems very sensitive to correct tension, the Rotax V-Twin though a great engine is a V-Twin and will pulse no matter what you do and if you are trying to stop all vibration you bought the wrong machine,I bought this bike for my wife after two goldwing trikes because of the VSS and the fact it it NOT a kit, I explained to her ahead of time this would never be as electrisc smooth as her two previous Wing Trikes but would be safer and fully warranted .
JohnS_Rosamond
New member
Me too I guess.
After looking at this thread, I looked on the left side of the RT ond it sure looks like I have this issue as well. There is some rpm where it feels like something is hitting something else hard (I can feel it through the footpegs on both sides).
Here's my question: I am not afraid to take the front trunk off, but will that really make it easier to access the area needed? There is a plastic shroud that surrounds the area I would need to get to along with some "chicken wire." (This looks like it might be removable from the bottom. It just looks like removing the front trunk wouldn't help much as the motor mount is behind the front suspension. It's almost like if I could move the oil tank and the cooler, I could leave the front end alone. Please tell me what I'm missing. Thanks.
After looking at this thread, I looked on the left side of the RT ond it sure looks like I have this issue as well. There is some rpm where it feels like something is hitting something else hard (I can feel it through the footpegs on both sides).
Here's my question: I am not afraid to take the front trunk off, but will that really make it easier to access the area needed? There is a plastic shroud that surrounds the area I would need to get to along with some "chicken wire." (This looks like it might be removable from the bottom. It just looks like removing the front trunk wouldn't help much as the motor mount is behind the front suspension. It's almost like if I could move the oil tank and the cooler, I could leave the front end alone. Please tell me what I'm missing. Thanks.
sinkhole
New member
strut removal...
Removal of the frunk is probably the easiest part of this job, and will make it go much quicker with a lot less use of four letter words. :gaah:
The longitudinal strut runs through the screen you mention, and it has to be removed in order to get the screen out of your way. As Len mentions in the first post, you will need to swing the oil tank back out of the way so that you can remove the rear longitudinal strut bolt, and the lateral strut bolt that hits the bracket. You'll find that clear access from the front will make it much easier to grind some relief, and clean up the notch created by the offending nut.
You may find that you also need to swing the coil assembly up out of the way when you move the oil tank.
Good luck.
Removal of the frunk is probably the easiest part of this job, and will make it go much quicker with a lot less use of four letter words. :gaah:
The longitudinal strut runs through the screen you mention, and it has to be removed in order to get the screen out of your way. As Len mentions in the first post, you will need to swing the oil tank back out of the way so that you can remove the rear longitudinal strut bolt, and the lateral strut bolt that hits the bracket. You'll find that clear access from the front will make it much easier to grind some relief, and clean up the notch created by the offending nut.
You may find that you also need to swing the coil assembly up out of the way when you move the oil tank.
Good luck.
JohnS_Rosamond
New member
Sinkhole,
Thanks for such a quick response over a holiday. The more I looked at the manual, it looks like this little fairing (that the strut goes through) needs to be removed might also have one retaining screw underneath the middle top panel. I don't have metal dust on the frame yet, but the nut sure looks to be resting right on top of the frame.
Have any of you used car-type ramps rather than jackstands to get the nose up in the air? I have rhino ramps that I think I would like to use since the wheels don't need to come off.
Cheers.
Thanks for such a quick response over a holiday. The more I looked at the manual, it looks like this little fairing (that the strut goes through) needs to be removed might also have one retaining screw underneath the middle top panel. I don't have metal dust on the frame yet, but the nut sure looks to be resting right on top of the frame.
Have any of you used car-type ramps rather than jackstands to get the nose up in the air? I have rhino ramps that I think I would like to use since the wheels don't need to come off.
Cheers.
JohnS_Rosamond
New member
oops, one more question.
Once the nose is loose, are all of the electrical / cable connections (other than the headlight adjusters) are they all pushed up behind the nose or are they obvious and under the small service covers? Is the nose heavy or bulky - that is can I hang onto it myself? Sorry to be so full of questions.
Once the nose is loose, are all of the electrical / cable connections (other than the headlight adjusters) are they all pushed up behind the nose or are they obvious and under the small service covers? Is the nose heavy or bulky - that is can I hang onto it myself? Sorry to be so full of questions.
J W Miller
New member
My bike is now at the dealer in Ft Myers for over due 600 mile service and belt check as it seems to be rubbing on the flanges of the pulleys.I am sure I have the rubbing bolt head problem to as I have that viberation in 5th at 4800-5200 rpms. I also know another RTS is in that shop for same vibe problem.Should be interesting to see whats done.I do not think I will get bike bike till end of first week in Dec. J W Miller
sinkhole
New member
When I work on mine I run the front up onto the ramps (Advance Auto, $35/pair), then jack the rear at the hole in the bottom of the frame towards the back. I thought of buying another set of ramps, but have been using a stack of 4 square pieces of 2x10 under the rear wheel. Works well. :2thumbs:
sinkhole
New member
snout removal...
1. Side mirrors
2. Service Covers
3. Middle side panels
4. Top side panels
5. Front facia
There are six bolts holding the snout onto the frame... four on top, and two underneath. You will also need to disconnect the hood release cable and 5 electrical connectors. The snout hangs on two clips at the top and has to be raised slightly in order to move forward. It helps to slide something of adequate height under the snout to support it as you move it away from the frame because there are two electrical connections that can't be accessed until you do. The snout can be handled by one, but two people makes it a lot easier.
I hope this helps.
To start, you need to remove:
1. Side mirrors
2. Service Covers
3. Middle side panels
4. Top side panels
5. Front facia
There are six bolts holding the snout onto the frame... four on top, and two underneath. You will also need to disconnect the hood release cable and 5 electrical connectors. The snout hangs on two clips at the top and has to be raised slightly in order to move forward. It helps to slide something of adequate height under the snout to support it as you move it away from the frame because there are two electrical connections that can't be accessed until you do. The snout can be handled by one, but two people makes it a lot easier.
I hope this helps.
JohnS_Rosamond
New member
Thank you
Hey Sinkhole,
Thank you very much for the added info and the pictures. I rather suspected that there might be a couple of electrical connectors that were hidden back there. I do want to see how it comes off and to know how to access stuff in the nose, but I thought that I would check out my local dealer first (like if I broke it, I'd be outta luck). And he was nice enough to clearance the bolt for me at no charge. However, I want to get in there anyway because I don't think that they put much paint over the cuts. I don't see any overspray and I doubt they taped up the whole thing. There was a noticeable banging in the footpegs that's gone now when I ride. Again, I am going to do this (I did figure out how to remove the mirrors and everything else looks just like screws and rubber grommets.)
Best Wishes
John S
Hey Sinkhole,
Thank you very much for the added info and the pictures. I rather suspected that there might be a couple of electrical connectors that were hidden back there. I do want to see how it comes off and to know how to access stuff in the nose, but I thought that I would check out my local dealer first (like if I broke it, I'd be outta luck). And he was nice enough to clearance the bolt for me at no charge. However, I want to get in there anyway because I don't think that they put much paint over the cuts. I don't see any overspray and I doubt they taped up the whole thing. There was a noticeable banging in the footpegs that's gone now when I ride. Again, I am going to do this (I did figure out how to remove the mirrors and everything else looks just like screws and rubber grommets.)
Best Wishes
John S
J W Miller
New member
Up Date Viberation
Picked bike up at Ft Myers dealer and all problems fixed,mods on frame to fix viberaton, new air shock plus few other minor problems. Bike was clean as a pin to. J. Miller
Picked bike up at Ft Myers dealer and all problems fixed,mods on frame to fix viberaton, new air shock plus few other minor problems. Bike was clean as a pin to. J. Miller
Marker
New member
Very Curious to know when the Rt 's were built that have this problem. My 2010 Rt was built in July 2010 and my dealer said alot of problems were corrected as the Rt's were being assembled on the assembly line.
My Rt does not have this vibration problem but will ask my dealer to look at the boltand nut for clearance issues.
My Rt does not have this vibration problem but will ask my dealer to look at the boltand nut for clearance issues.
J W Miller
New member
My bike was a very early model no.000189 and it had to have bolt head frame mod. done.
Marker
New member
So, Maybe the problem has been corrected on later build models:dontknow:
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