vibration and engine noise 013 rs

[Illinois Boy]

Really? Shouldn't break-in rpms be below 6k? Isn't that normal practice for a V-Twin?

Breaking-in an engine will provide as many differing responses as an oil-thread.

Personally, I would not run mine up to 6,000 rpm's during break-in; however I would (and did) ride mine quite normally during break-in (5,000 to 5,500 rpm's) -- EXCEPT I never maintained a constant speed -- ever during break-in.

It is highly recommended in just about every version of break-in procedure to use varying speeds often and to never ride for any distance at a constant rpm. As I mentioned, I would avoid over-revving the motor early-on -- especially if there is not a load on the engine. That's a good way to spoil a new engine quickly. However, riding around in the range between 5,000 to 5,500 rpm's should be fine in my opinion.

Lastly, many would suggest you change the oil well prior to the recommended break-in period due to the initial metal-shavings that typically occur in the initial few miles (and I literally mean within the first 20-50 miles). But each to their own on that matter.

To the OP's post... with the 900 series engine, you had better learn quickly to run your Spyder at a much higher rpm's than you ever did your Harley. Running a 900 series engine between 2,100 and 3,500 is killing it -- period. You need to think of the 900 series engine like you would a sport-bike -- not a low-torque v-twin. You will more than likely find running the engine at 5,000 and higher will smooth-out the engine and quiet it down some. Try to get over the idea you have to shift to the highest gear (4th or 5th) no matter what speed/rpm's you are going. You can ride all-day in 3rd gear up to 55 mph. Save 4th gear for 55 to 65 mph. 5th is for 65+ on relatively flat-roadways. On hills you'll be shifting between 4th and 5th frequently to keep the rpm's up.

Good luck to you...

 

[Michael211_2000]

I strongly disagree with those promoting ultra-high rpm's before up-shifting. I'm almost at 6K miles and doing just fine up-shifting between 3.5 and 4k rpm's each and every time (and this is in full compliance with the Can-Am operators guide). I only wish it would automatically downshift a few hundred rpm's higher than it does, though I almost always downshift manually before the auto downshift activates.

But to each their own, debating this point is futile. :sour:

Anyhow if you're in doubt about whether it's running correct or not, why not take it back to the dealership and let them check it for you? Is the warranty still in effect? What octane fuel are you running? I found mine performs better and runs smoother with 89 (I've tried all 3 octane levels, 89 and 93 ran basically identical but it tended to backfire on downshifting with 87 so I settled on 89 full time). There is a little belt vibration, a long belt is going to vibrate at times with no tensioner to stop it. I'd have preferred a shaft-driven rear wheel but that's not how Can-Am built it.:gaah:

ps. Run some SeaFoam in the next tank of fuel you put in. That 2012 RS had so few miles on it when you bought it, for being a 2012 model it's sat a lot obviously... it's quite possible ethanol sitting in the gas tank for months on end has gunked up the fuel system somewhat. About every thousand miles or so I treat a tank of fuel with SeaFoam in mine, and it purrs like a kitten at ALL rpm's.

- Michael

 

[mikecronis]

I would agree with your break-in recommendation, though I've tried a few higher rpms for feel once or twice. Happy-place is 5k it seems, harmonics all balance nicely there. Anything above 6k is a bit snappish and it feels.. "angry" to do so and the chassis seems a bit unsettled on the SE5.

 

[Whitetail]

Just to clarify and slightly thread hijack, running my spyder at 3rd gear at 55mph at around 5200-5500 rpms all day is fine? Ive run it up to 6-6200 rpms which is about 60 mph but i usually run 4th gear to hit 60 mph but over 70 for extended is a 5th gear territory. Is this fine? Around 6k i feel a slight vibration, but above that it runs really smooth and below that it runs fine too. I like to run the spyder at higher rpms like it says too.

Although recently i think i got some bad fuel as around 5200 rpms in third gear when id accelerate it seemed to have a slight hesitation unless i was accelerating through that rpm band, going to have the dealer check and tighten the belt.

 

[DrewNJ]

What some are failing to mention in relation to rpms is the difference between cruising rpms and acceleration rpms....Load.

Cruising around town at a steady pace in lower gears running high rpms is just silly. Don't be afraid to shift up. Go to as high a gear as you can while steady cruising and keep the rpms at 4k.
Also, the clutch will be OK if the revs drop lower at lower speeds with little load if your slow cruising through the neighborhood. Just don't try to wring the throttle out to accelerate up to speed from a taller gear...downshift to bring the revs up, then accelerate.
When accelerating, don't be afraid to rev it up, you won't hurt it. 7-8k is totally fine.
Clutch problems are from low rpms and high load (ie, trying to accelerate hard from to tall of gear). Not low rpms and low load (ie, cruising through a residential 25 at 3k with barely any throttle).

IMHO break in is all about load. You need to load the motor to seat the rings and valves. Some good hard accelerations is the key. You don't need to rev the snot out of it, but don't idle it around or highway cruise it either. Also, break in really happens in a VERY short period of time. Like the first 100-150 miles.

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[mob133]

un learn low RPM lugging

sorry I put this on another post accidentally good way to learn 1]wear good earplugs so you don't hear the motor scream as much till your more comfortable with it 2} put the bike in trailer mode for a while this will force you to learn higher shift points hope this helps

Thanks for all posts you guys, I understand what your saying about rpm and gears, I'm going to try and ride a different way next time out. It's going to be hard to break old habits! Dennis:

 

[hchays]

Dennis, I have a 2013 RS that I bought new as well (previous bike was a chopper). The break-in period has nothing to do with the question that you asked. These Spyders (RS,ST AND RT) are not "smooth". Althought the RT is probably the best of the three. With that being said, higher shift point RPMs will help smooth things out a little. That is not going to fix the problem alone. I have almost 4,000 miles on mine (bought it last June) and have tried every riding style. I just broke down and bought and installed a SmoothSpyder belt tensioner. It removed most of the of the vibrations around the 5,000-6,000 RPM range and made a much more comfortable ride. You will spend close to $300 for the tensioner, but it is a very well made, easy to install and will resolve most of your issues. I have tried many things because I did not want to spend the $$ on the SmoothSpyder tensioner, but in hind sight I should have just bought the damn tensioner. As Warren Buffet said " the only people that can afford to do it cheap are the people that can afford to do it twice". As I said I have been in your shoes and this is what I did to solve my issue. Also if you have any question about tensioners or putting ST bars on send me a message. I put a nice little post in the DIY section about how to do the RS-ST bar swap.

 

[DrewNJ]

Dennis, I have a 2013 RS that I bought new as well (previous bike was a chopper). The break-in period has nothing to do with the question that you asked. These Spyders (RS,ST AND RT) are not "smooth". Althought the RT is probably the best of the three. With that being said, higher shift point RPMs will help smooth things out a little. That is not going to fix the problem alone. I have almost 4,000 miles on mine (bought it last June) and have tried every riding style. I just broke down and bought and installed a SmoothSpyder belt tensioner. It removed most of the of the vibrations around the 5,000-6,000 RPM range and made a much more comfortable ride. You will spend close to $300 for the tensioner, but it is a very well made, easy to install and will resolve most of your issues. I have tried many things because I did not want to spend the $$ on the SmoothSpyder tensioner, but in hind sight I should have just bought the damn tensioner. As Warren Buffet said " the only people that can afford to do it cheap are the people that can afford to do it twice". As I said I have been in your shoes and this is what I did to solve my issue. Also if you have any question about tensioners or putting ST bars on send me a message. I put a nice little post in the DIY section about how to do the RS-ST bar swap.

Real good points!! It for sure isn't a smooth setup stock.

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