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Vehicle Stability System - Any Way to Make it Less Sensitive?

It would be great if they had Sport, Touring, and Rain modes. I had that on my GSX-R, three different fuel maps to adjust for different kinds of riding.

But as it is, I call the Nanny the "act your age!" option.

That has nothing to do with a nanny , All that does i limit the power to the rear wheel..
ie, similar to traction control to the rear wheel...[only]
 
I guess pushing it is a state of mind. I have been able to do 60 on my RT through curves rated 35 one up and feel there is still more I can go..... I feel more comfortable in the curves than on my sport bike....


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I don't remember where I read it but the story goes that Bosch were brought to develop the Nanny because BRP discovered that their Spyder prototype could not be ridden safely in its raw state. It badly needed the VSS to make it a safe, viable proposition.

Of course, there will be those who's sense of adventure and daring is such that the very thought of a Nanny interfering with their fun is a pita. I feel sympathy for this point of view, I love speed but I hate to feel unsafe. It is possible to have safe speed and IMO there is no thrill quite like it.

To reduce the effectiveness of the Spyder's Nanny, if that were made possible, might open a can of worms. How much to reduce it before the ride becomes hazardous? I can see why a car's adjustable suspension is pointed out in this regard but a car, having a wheel at each corner, is inherently firmly planted and stable whereas it appears that the Spyder negotiating a bend is less predictable. Instability increases with cornering speed. At speed a car will break away and slide but the Spyder will lift a wheel and fall over. Not a situation I would like to find myself in. :shocked:
 
Thanks for the great insight and feedback. I am learning a lot. Like I said, I do NOT want to eliminate the VSS as I know it can be a life saver, but the reality is that it kicks in WAY too early.

I took a look at the Elka shocks. I see that there is a big price range between the Stage 1 and Stage 5 offerings. Can anyone talk about what the differences are? I understand that the higher priced shocks allow for greater adjustability, but do they do a better job of "fooling" the nanny than the lower priced shocks? Personally, I think the Stage 1+R is all I would need, but I'd be willing to spend more to quiet down the nanny if necessary.
 
If you're cornering smoothly, you can ride pretty fast and hard without Nanny. If you are abrupt and rough, you can get Nanny to slap you just turning from a stop sign.
 
Thanks for the great insight and feedback. I am learning a lot. Like I said, I do NOT want to eliminate the VSS as I know it can be a life saver, but the reality is that it kicks in WAY too early.

I took a look at the Elka shocks. I see that there is a big price range between the Stage 1 and Stage 5 offerings. Can anyone talk about what the differences are? I understand that the higher priced shocks allow for greater adjustability, but do they do a better job of "fooling" the nanny than the lower priced shocks? Personally, I think the Stage 1+R is all I would need, but I'd be willing to spend more to quiet down the nanny if necessary.

I don't have Elka's so take it for what it's worth. I have researched them (which really isn't the same thing as riding them. But then again, I don't know many who have ridden them all on the same machine either).

That being the case it is my feeling that (and I agree with you) the 1+R will give you nearly all the bang for the buck that you're going to get and it will save you some coin over the top of the line. That is the one that I settled on for myself. I just never pulled the trigger.
 
Elka stage 5 shocks are worth the extra $$ High & low speed compression dampening adj

Thanks for the great insight and feedback. I am learning a lot. Like I said, I do NOT want to eliminate the VSS as I know it can be a life saver, but the reality is that it kicks in WAY too early.

I took a look at the Elka shocks. I see that there is a big price range between the Stage 1 and Stage 5 offerings. Can anyone talk about what the differences are? I understand that the higher priced shocks allow for greater adjustability, but do they do a better job of "fooling" the nanny than the lower priced shocks? Personally, I think the Stage 1+R is all I would need, but I'd be willing to spend more to quiet down the nanny if necessary.
:yes:
Len at PitBull Powersports adjusted my 2011 Spyder RT stage 5 shocks, installed them on my 2013 Spyder RT-S, it is like on rails in corners, nanny does not kick in.
The stage 5 Elka front shocks are worth the extra money for ease of having adjustment for High & Low speed compression dampening, rear stage 1+, setting up 2013 Spyder RT to your riding. If you order Elka Stage 5 RT front shocks & rear 1+, from Len he will set them up spot on!! The 2013 RT shocks are 19" eye to eye (1" longer than 2011 shocks).
Jim
 
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If you are abrupt and rough, you can get Nanny to slap you just turning from a stop sign.

I did experience this when we first got it in July. I am coming off a motorcycle and have 25 years of street experience. I quickly learned that you can't make sharp cuts or transitions with the Spyder or this will happen.

If you're cornering smoothly, you can ride pretty fast and hard without Nanny.

I consider this Stage 2. I worked my way up to exactly what you're describing. I set up my turns and take the widest arch I can with no sudden steering changes. Things were great for a few weeks until my cornering speed increased and the nanny is now reminding me that she is still there :)
 
:yes:
Len at PitBull Powersports adjusted my 2011 Spyder RT stage 5 shocks, installed them on my 2013 Spyder RT-S, it is like on rails in corners, nanny does not kick in.
The stage 5 Elka front shocks are worth the extra money for ease of having adjustment for High & Low speed compression dampening, rear stage 1+, setting up 2013 Spyder RT to your riding. If you order Elka Stage 5 RT front shocks & rear 1+, from Len he will set them up spot on!! The 2013 RT shocks are 13" eye to eye (1" longer than 2011 shocks).
Jim

Here is a quote from the Elka fact sheet that I downloaded: "REDUCED BODY ROLL AND FRONT-END WANDERING". The wandering is also what caught my eye. On my daily commute I have this one back road which is a tarred and stoned road. It is uneven and the Spyder will wallow and wander all the way down it. You can't keep it straight even at 50 MPH. Have you experienced with your new shocks whether this type of road condition is improved or even eliminated?
 
Your best bang for the buck, and the most effective way to reduce excessive body roll is to replace your OEM swaybar with a BajaRon bar. Evaluate that, then decide on the Elkas and/or Pitbull shock relocators. It does sound like you may still have some things that can be done in the way of technique, like weight shifting and leaning the upper body into the corner, but some suspension changes will make these things less necessary and precise technique less critical. Buy a BajaRon swaybar...you won't be sorry!
 
Your best bang for the buck, and the most effective way to reduce excessive body roll is to replace your OEM swaybar with a BajaRon bar. Evaluate that, then decide on the Elkas and/or Pitbull shock relocators. It does sound like you may still have some things that can be done in the way of technique, like weight shifting and leaning the upper body into the corner, but some suspension changes will make these things less necessary and precise technique less critical. Buy a BajaRon swaybar...you won't be sorry!

Already done. I even added the chromoly heim joints and it definitely made a big improvement. I also believe that I've exhausted the options for body positioning. That is why I'm looking for what I can do next. It sounds like the suspension upgrade might be the next logical step.
 
Here is a quote from the Elka fact sheet that I downloaded: "REDUCED BODY ROLL AND FRONT-END WANDERING". The wandering is also what caught my eye. On my daily commute I have this one back road which is a tarred and stoned road. It is uneven and the Spyder will wallow and wander all the way down it. You can't keep it straight even at 50 MPH. Have you experienced with your new shocks whether this type of road condition is improved or even eliminated?

My 2013 Spyder RT-S SE5 does not wander with my 2011 Elka stage 5 front shocks, stage 1+ rear shock. (rear tire pressure 28#, front 17#).
I suggest you give Len a call at PitBull powersports Springfield, Mo 417-863-1418 about Elka shocks for your 2013 Spyder RT. (I am not sure if Elka makes stage 5 front shocks for 2013 Spyder RT; but they are worth extra $$ in my opinion).
Was your 2013 Spyder RT built after March 2013? If built before that you may need front ball joints replaced under BRP recall.
(I noticed you enjoy supercross/motorcross. I raced/rode dirt bikes for 31 years in California Mojave desert; (B to V race was awesome).
(Maybe you can add info to your profile of what year Spyder RT, when you bought it, SE5, mods, your 1st name, etc).
(Did you put a reflective insulated heat barrier in front of master brake cylinder on right side of 2013 Spyder RT yet)?
Enjoy your RT riding!! Jim
 
My 2013 Spyder RT-S SE5 does not wander with my 2011 Elka stage 5 front shocks, stage 1+ rear shock. (rear tire pressure 28#, front 17#).
I suggest you give Len a call at PitBull powersports Springfield, Mo 417-863-1418 about Elka shocks for your 2013 Spyder RT. (I am not sure if Elka makes stage 5 front shocks for 2013 Spyder RT; but they are worth extra $$ in my opinion).
Was your 2013 Spyder RT built after March 2013? If built before that you may need front ball joints replaced under BRP recall.
(I noticed you enjoy supercross/motorcross. I raced/rode dirt bikes for 31 years in California Mojave desert; (B to V race was awesome).
(Maybe you can add info to your profile of what year Spyder RT, when you bought it, SE5, mods, your 1st name, etc).
(Did you put a reflective insulated heat barrier in front of master brake cylinder on right side of 2013 Spyder RT yet)?
Enjoy your RT riding!! Jim

I just checked the tag and it was built in April 2013, so hopefully I am good with the ball joints. I have not added any heat barrier to the master cylinder as I was not aware of this issue until I saw the thread about the recall in Canada.

It is always good to meet another dirt bike enthusiast. Like you, I've ridden most of my life as I started when I was 10. I raced District 3 MX for many years in the 125 / 250 Amateur class. I currently belong to a local MX club and my current ride is a 2012 Honda CRF250R. I have 3 sons and we all ride every weekend. We attended the Unadilla MX National a few weeks ago and the club I belong to flags that event. It is an incredible feeling being on the track with the Pros. It makes me realize that I am not as good of a rider as I think I am :)
 
Would sure like to find the source of this

I don't remember where I read it but the story goes that Bosch were brought to develop the Nanny because BRP discovered that their Spyder prototype could not be ridden safely in its raw state. It badly needed the VSS to make it a safe, viable proposition.
I would sure like to find the source of this rumor. I really want to check its accuracy. It just doesn't make sense. If the Spyder were that unsafe, then any vehicle manufacturer relying on a single computer to fix the problems would be crazy. Computers fail...we all know that. Sometimes they fail at bad times. You gotta be able to handle your machine, whether it is a trike, a bike, or a car with or without the computer. BRP knows that. For them to rely on a single computer to make something safe when its design is too unsafe to sell, is...well, asking to lose a very big product liability lawsuit.

i have no real knowledge of this, but I am guessing that BRP installed the nanny for two reasons: 1) to attract riders with no motorcycle experience, and 2) to keep those with motorcycle experience, and who do not respect that a spyder has much different road-geometry than a two wheeler, from getting in wrecks. Both of these reasons are really marketing driven.

I donno tho. I wish there were more verifiable facts available.
 
Experienced test riders of the early prototype Spyders likened riding it without the VSS to "riding a lawn dart". Like large SUV's (think Ford Explorer), Spyders have some inherent stabilty problems under extreme conditions. Physics always wins in the end. Like large, modern SUV's, BRP elected to resolve these possible problems with a Vehicle Stability System. I have no doubt that their target demographic entered into the settings and features they selected, but they did feel the system was necessary for all riders, and enlisted Bosch to help develop it. The first system was a modified 4-whell vehicle system, and the early Spyders, like Nancy's 2008, actually had four ABS sensors as a result.
 
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