Upgrade or No upgrade....from a 2010 to a 2016 or 2017 ?

[OKey]

I'm one of those guys that gets worn down faster than most when troubles exist. Bought my Spyder on EBay with 6,500 miles from a dealer in Florida in April this year....love it! My woman and I have taken many short trips within a 200 mile radius and back and love exploring. Convinced that the Spyder is the only way to go.

In the beginning we dealt with a "brake failure" message that was fixed after two visits to the dealer up here in Illinois. 4,000 miles later, message came back today so back to the dealer tomorrow...am I doing the wrong thing by looking at a "New" close out '16 or '17 ? Or....Am I going to be finding a new set of troubles by doing so?

Of course I'm looking at a chunk of change to upgrade (maybe 10K).

 

[Bfromla]

I'm one of those guys that gets worn down faster than most when troubles exist. Bought my Spyder on EBay with 6,500 miles from a dealer in Florida in April this year....love it! My woman and I have taken many short trips within a 200 mile radius and back and love exploring. Convinced that the Spyder is the only way to go.

In the beginning we dealt with a "brake failure" message that was fixed after two visits to the dealer up here in Illinois. 4,000 miles later, message came back today so back to the dealer tomorrow...am I doing the wrong thing by looking at a "New" close out '16 or '17 ? Or....Am I going to be finding a new set of troubles by doing so?

Of course I'm looking at a chunk of change to upgrade (maybe 10K).

Well you will like the 1330 & a current warranty for sure, but what was the fix on brakes?

The warning pops up for many reasons & may simply be a sensor going out.
(had one on mine last year) good luck:thumbup:

 

[ARtraveler]

A 2016 or higher would be an upgrade from the 2010. The 1330 engine which came out in 2014 is an improvement over the 998. Add in 6 gears, lower rpm operation, and much less maintenance, and its a no brainer. It all depends on how tight the $10K is to you.

I have one of both, and I do prefer the 1330. Not enough improvements since 2014 to make me think I need another upgrade. :yes:

 

[ThreeWheels]

The 2010 handles very poorly unless you have the BajaRon sway bar modification.
The rest is pretty acceptable and you can still upgrade headlights horn, etc. See if you can find the shock relocator kits. I don't know if they are still available.
The 1330 triple engine in the 2016 or 2017 is superior to the 998 twin in the 2010. The suspension is miles better than the 2010
If you're going to upgrade, I'd hold out for the 2018 with all the cool doodads in the newest version.
As always, my free advice comes with a double your money back guarantee.

 

[Chupaca]

Well....

If your asking here the opinions are going to lean on...that's the way to go. The 1330 is a more maintenance free model but run by and test one...:thumbup:

 

[Easy Rider]

..am I doing the wrong thing by looking at a "New" close out '16 or '17 ? Or....Am I going to be finding a new set of troubles by doing so?

Of course I'm looking at a chunk of change to upgrade (maybe 10K).

Similar to what I did.

IF you can afford it (I mean REALLY afford it, not can you eek out a big monthly payment) then by all means go for it.

The new models have fixed many "bugs" the older ones had. Mine's been perfect.....but less than 1K miles so far.

 

[MRH]

A brake failure warning on a 2010 might just be a brake fluid warning - that just normal maintenance and will run about $5 to address.

That said, anything from a 2014 forward will be a very significant step up, but you'll still need brake fluid.

 

[Buckeye Chuck 54]

Brake failure!

The first time I got this warning I was worried if I'd make it home. It turns out it just needs a little brake fluid. It doesn't need much.
Chuck

I'm one of those guys that gets worn down faster than most when troubles exist. Bought my Spyder on EBay with 6,500 miles from a dealer in Florida in April this year....love it! My woman and I have taken many short trips within a 200 mile radius and back and love exploring. Convinced that the Spyder is the only way to go.

In the beginning we dealt with a "brake failure" message that was fixed after two visits to the dealer up here in Illinois. 4,000 miles later, message came back today so back to the dealer tomorrow...am I doing the wrong thing by looking at a "New" close out '16 or '17 ? Or....Am I going to be finding a new set of troubles by doing so?

Of course I'm looking at a chunk of change to upgrade (maybe 10K).

 

[Buckeye Bleau]

The first time I got this warning I was worried if I'd make it home. It turns out it just needs a little brake fluid. It doesn't need much.
Chuck

:agree:I was leaving the dealerships once and got the warning light. Turned around and took it back to them, they put in a couple teaspoons of fluid and no problem since.


Joe

 

[Bob Denman]

ANY 1330 bike is a huge improvement over the 998s. :thumbup:
But this might just be something that is easily fixed with a small amount of brake fluid.
If the bike is running okay in every other way: it's sure worth the effort!

 

[Spider-man]

I'm one of those guys that gets worn down faster than most when troubles exist. Bought my Spyder on EBay with 6,500 miles from a dealer in Florida in April this year....love it! My woman and I have taken many short trips within a 200 mile radius and back and love exploring. Convinced that the Spyder is the only way to go.

In the beginning we dealt with a "brake failure" message that was fixed after two visits to the dealer up here in Illinois. 4,000 miles later, message came back today so back to the dealer tomorrow...am I doing the wrong thing by looking at a "New" close out '16 or '17 ? Or....Am I going to be finding a new set of troubles by doing so?

Of course I'm looking at a chunk of change to upgrade (maybe 10K).

I just did exactly that - sold my 2010 RTS SM5 and bought a 2017 F3T. OMG! Great improvement. Much more fun on the bike, no break down issues so far. And if there are, the current deal from BRP includes a 3 yrs. warranty, so at least I won't have to pay out of pocket. I don't regret it for a second.

 

[Easy Rider]

It turns out it just needs a little brake fluid. It doesn't need much.

Keep an eye on it.
If you have a lot of miles, that could just be an indication that the pads are wearing.
If not a lot of miles, there could be a leak.

Except for pad wear, you should NEVER lose any brake fluid.

 

[Buckeye Chuck 54]

Sure thing.

The only way to lose fluid, if everything else is working properly, is the pads wearing. This spring I bought Bajaron's fully sintered pads and have only added fluid twice. But I was told the last time I had my rear tire changed I was getting close again. Before I bought Ron's pads I was changing twice a year. Kinda pricey. And yes, my bike does have a few miles.
Chuck

Keep an eye on it.
If you have a lot of miles, that could just be an indication that the pads are wearing.
If not a lot of miles, there could be a leak.

Except for pad wear, you should NEVER lose any brake fluid.

 

[Wrongway]

Please let us know about the result of your brake failure message.
Also let us know what you decide to do as far as upgrading.

I have a 2011 and really like it. After reading a lot on this site, I won't allow myself to test ride a 2014 or newer because I'm afraid it will cost me many $$$$$$.

regards
Greg

 

[jfischer]

I just traded my 2012 RT A/C for a 2017 RT-S. It's a much nicer machine all around, the engine is a lot smoother, and the extra gear is very noticeable on the highway. Mileage is better, handling is better, braking is better. I don't miss anything about the 2012, other than the exhaust note

 

[OKey]

Please let us know about the result of your brake failure message.
Also let us know what you decide to do as far as upgrading.

I have a 2011 and really like it. After reading a lot on this site, I won't allow myself to test ride a 2014 or newer because I'm afraid it will cost me many $$$$$$.

regards
Greg

My dealer is usually backed up and behind. I am bringing in it in on Thursday (tomorrow) to see what gives. Will post the results.

 

[OKey]

Problem Solved

I'm one of those guys that gets worn down faster than most when troubles exist. Bought my Spyder on EBay with 6,500 miles from a dealer in Florida in April this year....love it! My woman and I have taken many short trips within a 200 mile radius and back and love exploring. Convinced that the Spyder is the only way to go.

In the beginning we dealt with a "brake failure" message that was fixed after two visits to the dealer up here in Illinois. 4,000 miles later, message came back today so back to the dealer tomorrow...am I doing the wrong thing by looking at a "New" close out '16 or '17 ? Or....Am I going to be finding a new set of troubles by doing so?

Of course I'm looking at a chunk of change to upgrade (maybe 10K).

The dealer replaced a switch (sensor) in the back of the bike and the brake failure message went away...$185...not too bad. Hoping that this takes care of it for good.

In the meantime I am saving my lunch money to upgrade sometime into the future.

 

[Wrongway]

The dealer replaced a switch (sensor) in the back of the bike and the brake failure message went away...$185...not too bad. Hoping that this takes care of it for good.

In the meantime I am saving my lunch money to upgrade sometime into the future.

Thanks for the update. It's great that they got it sorted out for you. Under $200 is a bonus in my opinion.

 

[JayBros]

I really like the 1330 ACE engine in my 2014, first Spyder. That said, you did not mention anything about your 2010's maintenance history. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and the system should be flushed every two years -- a wise maintenance investment.

 

[ARtraveler]

The dealer replaced a switch (sensor) in the back of the bike and the brake failure message went away...$185...not too bad. Hoping that this takes care of it for good.

In the meantime I am saving my lunch money������ to upgrade sometime into the future.

The 2010 is a good machine. I had a Premier Edition for four trouble free years and 36,500 miles. Normal maintenance, tires, a throttle update, and a valve check at 28,000 (not needed--save your $800 extra). I waited until 2014 to replace my 2010 so I could get the new 1330. Still have a 2011 with 28K miles on it. No problems there either. :yes: