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UPDATE - Custom Performance Anti-Sway Bar for the RT
- Thread starter BajaRon
- Start date
Y Rider
New member
I sure hope no one will be able to see it. Green or yellow is going to look like crap on my white Spyder. :sour:
Bob Denman
New member
Okay... After we all ride to Canada and "discuss" the rear tire air valve issue with that bonehead; do you think that we should pay a visit to BajaCentral too? 
:roflblack:
:roflblack:
quickster47
New member
Unboxed mine just while ago and it is... the prettiest shade of... and perfectly matches... BLACK!
Carl
Carl
SPYDER Mike
New member
BLACK works 
ray: just fine for ME:yes:
ray: just fine for ME:yes:Bob Denman
New member
hyea:
BajaRon
Well-known member
Custom Sway Bar Insall Tip.
This is a trick I've stolen (with permission) from cjackg and it may make your Sway Bar install go a bit easier. This trick is NOT included in the instructions I sent with the bars.
There are 4 bolts (#24) holding the 2 Bushing Clamps (#23) in place. Remove the 2 lower bolts but do not remove the 2 upper bolts. Instead, loosen them until you have enough room to drop the OEM sway bar down and remove it.
This saves you having to relocate the Bushing Clamps on the frame (somewhat of a pain) and you avoid having to relocate the 2 upper bolts in their respective holes (also a pain) and you don't have to put the nuts back on these 2 bolts.
These 2 bolts are not that bad but still the most difficult part of the install. Doing it this way should save you time, effort and aggravation.
The lower Bushing Clamp bolts and the Heim Joint Link bolts (#27) are easy to access.
Thank you cjackg and everyone else who have helped me make this project go. I would greatly appreciate feedback not only on the Sway Bar, but also on the install instructions. It's not a difficult install but anything I can do to make it easier will be very much appreciated.
This is a trick I've stolen (with permission) from cjackg and it may make your Sway Bar install go a bit easier. This trick is NOT included in the instructions I sent with the bars.
There are 4 bolts (#24) holding the 2 Bushing Clamps (#23) in place. Remove the 2 lower bolts but do not remove the 2 upper bolts. Instead, loosen them until you have enough room to drop the OEM sway bar down and remove it.
This saves you having to relocate the Bushing Clamps on the frame (somewhat of a pain) and you avoid having to relocate the 2 upper bolts in their respective holes (also a pain) and you don't have to put the nuts back on these 2 bolts.
These 2 bolts are not that bad but still the most difficult part of the install. Doing it this way should save you time, effort and aggravation.
The lower Bushing Clamp bolts and the Heim Joint Link bolts (#27) are easy to access.
Thank you cjackg and everyone else who have helped me make this project go. I would greatly appreciate feedback not only on the Sway Bar, but also on the install instructions. It's not a difficult install but anything I can do to make it easier will be very much appreciated.
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BajaRon
Well-known member
I think the Handy Lift will be easier. I've done it both ways. Being able to stand up is a plus. You don't need to take weight off the wheels as the only thing that will affect is access to the sway bar ends which are easily accessed either way.
If you have enough room to work between the bottom of the Spyder and the lift you're good to go.
bmwlarry
New member
Ron
i have read directions prior to doing the install and do I understand correctly that the install can be done by removing the lower frunk bolts? Does this mean that none of the bodywork or bodywork fasteners need to be removed or losened to pull out the frunk enough to get in? Correct?
i have read directions prior to doing the install and do I understand correctly that the install can be done by removing the lower frunk bolts? Does this mean that none of the bodywork or bodywork fasteners need to be removed or losened to pull out the frunk enough to get in? Correct?
BajaRon
Well-known member
Seems there was a step that I failed to include. You'll need to pull the 2, easy access pop-off panels (Right and Left side). This exposes the large bolt (#68 below) that fastens the long tupperware piece that holds the fog lights to the frame at the back. These bolts keep the Frunk from moving upwards which you need to get access to the Sway Bar components.
Diagram is of Left Side (sitting on Spyder). I'm pointing to the same bolt on the Right Side.
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bmwlarry
New member
Rn
i have the frunk emptied, skid plate removed and the two bottom frunk bolts removed. The most I can get the frunk to move forward is 1 inch. Is there something I'm missing? It moves 1 inch and then the whole front, suspension and all starts to raise. It looks as though the foglights may be the issue.
Larry
i have the frunk emptied, skid plate removed and the two bottom frunk bolts removed. The most I can get the frunk to move forward is 1 inch. Is there something I'm missing? It moves 1 inch and then the whole front, suspension and all starts to raise. It looks as though the foglights may be the issue.
Larry
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Bob Denman
New member
BajaRon
Well-known member
Seems there was a step that I failed to include. You'll need to pull the 2, easy access pop-off panels (Right and Left side). This exposes the large bolt (#68 below) that fastens the long tupperware piece that holds the fog lights to the frame at the back. This is what is keeping you from moving the Frunk.
I know cjackg recommends loosening the 4 bolts that hold the frunk at the back. This may work but I don't think it is necessary. I believe that removing the pop-off panels and remove this bolt on each side will be easier. I will post a picture here shortly. (Picture posted)
Diagram is of Left Side (sitting on Spyder). I'm pointing to the same bolt on the Right Side.
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quickster47
New member
Seems there was a step that I failed to include. You'll need to pull the 2, easy access pop-off panels (Right and Left side). This exposes the large bolt (#63 below) that fastens the long tupperware piece that holds the fog lights to the frame at the back. This is what is keeping you from moving the Frunk.
I know cjackg recommends loosening the 4 bolts that hold the frunk at the back. This may work but I don't think it is necessary. I believe that removing the pop-off panels and remove this bolt on each side will be easier. I will post a picture here shortly. (Picture posted)
Should that be screw #68 in the drawing?
Carl
BajaRon
Well-known member
Yes... :thumbup: Previous post fixed.... Thanks!
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