U0128

[PMK]

Knowing there is power to the parking brake switch and I believe it reads that the switch is functioning that indicates possibly more complex problems.

It appears you have ensured the connectors are seated. I would double check this task unless you are certain that they all have been connected properly.

Verify no other connectors in the area came loose.

After that, I would consider a battery disconect and wait a minimum of 10 minutes, then reconnect. See if this accomplishes any type of system reset.

Beyond that, it appears, but could possibly be something else, the module for the windscreen and parking brake has failed.

In regards to the other research indicating a failed item in the windscreen system, no doubt anything is possible, however the motors for both the windscreen and parking brake are wired directly to the module with no other electronics in between.

All the best, but at this point unless it is something mentioned already here, it may need dealer support to cure the problem.

 

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: This is probably WAY out in left field... pps:
I seem to recall that if the "electrics" for the hitch fails; it can screw up all sorts of things. nojoke
Or am I just "Playing left-field" in the wrong park again? :dontknow:

 

[OverHillAndDale]

Thanks for the advice.

I pulled power from the backlighting circuit to the switch panel. Once the issue showed up I disconnected the USB ports to ensure that this power draw wasn't causing the issue, no change.

 

[billybovine]

I could be wrong, but I dont think that is a good spot to pull power from and you may have damaged the windshield and parking brake circuit. I am pretty sure the lighting for switches and handlebar controls is powered through the CAN-BUS. Big no-no. Any power to accessories can be tapped in AFTER a relay only. The CAN-BUS system is basically a logic controller that activates relays on the bike. Even though you have unplugged the USB port, you may ahve permanently damaged the windshield/parking brake controller. Maybe someone else can correct me if I am wrong. For your sake, I hope I am wrong. Looked at wiring diagram. Orange with red stripe is the power to light the switches. According to diagram it may be ok to use that as power, BUT, if you tapped into ANY other wire, thats NOT GOOD. All other colors go through the CAN-BUS system.

.

A very common myth with no basis in fact. No Can-Bus lines have 12v on then. You may expect 5V from time to time. You cannot power anything from the Can-Bus lines. Can-bus does not run any relays. Can-bus is the communication between smart devices on modern vehicles. Through a dedicated pair of wires connecting each of the smart devices. Those are the Can-Bus wires. In the case of the Spyder are always white with a tracer color. They do not connect to switches or relays or any other dumb device. In this case there are no Can-Bus wires present in the switch panel where the OP connected the usb charging socket.

 

[OverHillAndDale]

I'm very glad to hear that - I'd rather not go back and rewrite the USB.


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[OverHillAndDale]

One last question before I bite the bullet and dive in one last time.

Does anyone know where the WCM is located and what it looks like?

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I'm sure you mean the WPM. It's that whole assembly that the windshield mechanism is attached to. (I think I have a picture saved someplace.) It's a 2012 picture but yours can't be that much different. About all you can do is check that the connector hasn't come loose. Click on them for the full size pics.

Edit: $614.99

 

[OverHillAndDale]

Thanks you


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[Bob Denman]

I hope that you find the solution soon, and I DOUBLE-hope, that it's easy and cheap! :thumbup:

 

[PMK]

The troubleshooting is isolating some things. Hopefully the switch is able to carry a load across it, rather than just voltage.

I have not seen you post about this yet, for no good reason other than it is electronic, have you disconnected the battery for a while.

Also, I understand the instrument cluster illuminates, does the bike start normally? Again, no good reason to start it, but it is electronic and maybe that can reset a non indicated craziness.

 

[RSedle]

U0128 screen shot

Screen shot from 2015 Maint Manual hope it helps

 

[OverHillAndDale]

Yes, I've disconnected the battery and waiting 30 minutes. The bike starts perfectly and I can even shift from 1st to N to R (although I can't move the bike because of the parking brake).

 

[tehrlich]

I had a similar issue with my 2015 RT Limited. In fact, I just returned from my dealer yesterday for the fix. My switch for the brake malfunctioned and it was replaced.

I could do as you said: shift around, but the brake would not disengage. I never checked the windshield movement, so I may have had a different problem.

As you have done, I did a lot of searching around on the internet. I found a few other cases where the parking brake switch malfunctions. A few months ago, when pushing the button, I noticed that it felt just a bit different, but it looked normal.

I had an incident after this where the brake was stuck, like you, and I was able to get it to disengage by turning everything off and trying again. It took me a few times, but it worked. It started happening more frequently until two weeks ago while camping, it was completely stuck and I couldn't get it go. Off to the dealer it went.

The weird thing with some of these incidents was this: the parking light would go off in the cluster, but the brake was still engaged. That tells me that current was going through the switch, but maybe not enough to kick in the relay? No clue. The final straw incident had the brake light still turned on in the cluster.

In all of my incidents (about 5 times), letting it sit turned off seemed to clear it.

Maybe your switch was damaged internally during your upgrade?


However..... your problem now makes me wonder if I just got a new switch and my own problem isn't resolved!!

 

[OverHillAndDale]

Thanks for all your help

After disassembling a BUNCH of stuff, cleaning, reassembling everything is working now. :clap: I'm not entirely sure what went wrong, but it may have been:
- A sliver of steel I found loose in the worm gear for the windshield mechanism, and/or
- the fact that I replaced an aluminum screw that held down the motor arm with a steel one, which may have messed up the magnetic field on the magnetic proximity sensor.

In either case, it's good to have her back on the road, and I LOVE the new USB ports. :thumbup:

 

[cognaccruiser]

Thanks for the update and happy to hear it worked out. I know I learned things just from reading all the questions and answers.

Gary