Tyre Question - Different Topic... advantages using different tires front vs rear?

[Peter Aawen]

OH you just had to mention flip didn't you. Hope you can view this facebook link. https://www.facebook.com/groups/31362956903/permalink/10158666563021904/

Yup!! Like I said, have that happen when you're not actually trying to do it, or not at least 'sorta expecting it to occur/be somewhat likely' WILL produce some seriously bum clenching moments!! :yikes:

 

[Poasttown]

I’m beginning to wonder if anyone is happy with the stock Kenda tires. My experience with other bikes, not the spyder yet, has been associated with the tread life of the stock tires. I just got tired of having to change the tires every year. (4000 to 5000 miles per year) It seemed that I was always faced with the situation where my tire tread was somewhat marginal when I was ready for a trip so I could either replace them or begin the trip with the last quarter of life on the tire.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I’m beginning to wonder if anyone is happy with the stock Kenda tires.

Yes, there are. There have been posts on here by a number of owners who were quite satisfied with them.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

It's when you introduce significantly different adhesion limits & performance characteristics from side to side (ie, running different types/treads across an axle, front or rear) that things become quite unpredictable & so can potentially produce SERIOUSLY bum puckering moments! :yikes:

With matching tire types/tread across an axle, the 'side to side' variations are there, but they aren't usually massive &/or mutually antagonistic, and most tires are designed & engineered to be generally predictable as well as usually giving the operator some warning before the tires reach their limits & let go! And even if/when one of those ends 'let's go' & hangs the tail or even spins, if your operator is reasonably competent, the situation is usually (eventually ) recoverable, if you don't hit something first! :lecturef_smilie:

However, when you run different tire types/tread on either side of the vehicle, that basically progressive & relatively predictable nature of 'over-steer vs under-steer' that is something most people learn to manage reasonably well from the moment they start learning to drive just disappears..... so instead of having correctable & in some respects, even 'controllable' over-steer or under-steer 'incipient spin' situations when one end or the other steps out (consider those 'drift cars' you see, or you hanging the tail juuust a little on slippery corners, etc) the driver/ryder can SUDDENLY end up in what is an effectively uncontrollable situation, simply because as the vehicle loses control & snaps into a spin &/or a roll and ends up wildly gyrating its way off or down the road, while & where the continually changing grip from side to side doesn't (& can't!) respond readily to any of the control inputs the Nanny OR the driver/ryder is likely to capable of providing in a suitably effective timeframe! :banghead:

Even the really capable & very effective VSS that our Spyder/Rykers run simply won't let the Computer OR the Ryder provide timely control input to either side of the machine's three wheels/control surfaces, the tires (braking right front &/or rear, vs braking left front &/or rear, OR vs braking right front only &/or braking left front only - or was that dropping power to the rear, or the right side rear vs the left side rear?!? :gaah: ) and altho the VSS can brake one or more control surface (tire) it can't control the sides so much as it controls the corners or the ends of the machine, and with the handlebars &/or the throttle/brakes, the Ryder too CAN provide control input to one END or the OTHER! :thumbup:

So if you've got reasonably matching grip & handling characteristics across the axles at each end, the Computer can predictably & in a timely manner control those ends, even working to reduce the likelihood of flipping/rolling, just as you the operator can learn/develop the skills to minimise those 'let go on one end' situations & maybe even develop some skill at controlling the lesser 'let go on one end' situations in time to save your machine from spinning or rolling. Heck, most of us Spyder/Ryker ryders even enjoy 'hanging the tail' a little every now & then, but I don't know of any computer on a road based vehicle or of anyone driving/riding any vehicle who enjoys losing control over just the right side of their vehicle or just the left side of their vehicle - especially if it ends up flipping, rolling, &/or spinning, and so gyrating its way down the road with uncontrollable sides and ends!! That's called an 'unrecoverable spin/roll' vs the 'over-steer or under-steer' induced spins that are generally considered to be avoidable & potentially recoverable (if you don't lose control of one side & roll, &/or hit anything first!! ) Make sense?? :dontknow:

:agree: .... I'd like to add to this, some other factors that should be considered .... #1 - " tire size charts " , Not all tires of Any given size ( ie. what's stated on the actual tire sidewall ) ... are actually the same. Even as little as 1/4 inch in Circumference will make a difference. #2. - different tire Compounds will wear at different rates, so one tire will wear quicker than the other. #3. - Different tire Compounds, will have different Traction capabilities, this will effect Braking / Accelerating abilities and to a lessor extent Lateral ( ie.turning ) forces ( ie "G's" )....... Mike :thumbup:

 

[RayBJ]

I’m beginning to wonder if anyone is happy with the stock Kenda tires.....

Different riding styles demand different equipment. If you are a 'normal' rider, the Kendas and OEM sway bar may be fine for you. If you are a 'spirited' rider, you will quickly identify areas needing upgrades as you push the limits of your machine.

 

[Ready2Retire]

Different riding styles demand different equipment. If you are a 'normal' rider, the Kendas and OEM sway bar may be fine for you. If you are a 'spirited' rider, you will quickly identify areas needing upgrades as you push the limits of your machine.

And this is where I am at this point. I'm (we're) not spirited ryders, but ryding 2 up (we're not overweight, but let's just say we don't skinny dip anymore, we chunky dunk) the front Kenda's don't seem to grip as much as I'd like within my "safe zone". Hence the reason I was researching replacements which lead to my curiosity on the original question.

John

 

[bushrat]

John, in your original post you state:

"I was always under the impression that for best handling and stability use the same tyre/tread pattern front to rear"

yet this is not true even for the OEM Kendas that come with a Spyder. The brand is the same, but the tread pattern between front and rear is certainly not. It's only the front tires that are equivalents, for reasons that Peter Aawen has explained in depth, along with others. The OEM Kenda rear tread pattern is nowhere near the front. So, should brand difference matter? I think not.

I'm one of those who really can't complain too much about the service life of my original Kendas. Once in a while, I had the odd handling concern, but not enough to prevent me continuing. I've now gone 31,000 km on them (about 20K miles). The rear is in need of replacement; the fronts have enough 'meat' on them to likely go another 10K km or so. I have heard of one rider who got 60K km out of his. Even so, I'm swapping over to Mike's recommended Vredesteins for my front, and a Kumho on the rear. I likely would have gone to Quatrac 5's all the way around, but couldn't find a rear of that brand to fit. As well, I like the looks of the Kumho Ecsta rear tread pattern. I've checked the reviews of others who have tried the same mix and match solution and been impressed by the handling improvements.

Good luck in your search. Availability of supply may be your biggest obstacle. Searching for a supplier who had 'in stock' availability actually took longer for me than delivery, which turned out to be very quick. With winter upon us here, I'm saving the mounting until spring, and looking forward through the winter to a 'new beginning' when the snows melt.

Cheers.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

John, in your original post you state:

"I was always under the impression that for best handling and stability use the same tyre/tread pattern front to rear"

yet this is not true even for the OEM Kendas that come with a Spyder. The brand is the same, but the tread pattern between front and rear is certainly not. It's only the front tires that are equivalents, for reasons that Peter Aawen has explained in depth, along with others. The OEM Kenda rear tread pattern is nowhere near the front. So, should brand difference matter? I think not.

I'm one of those who really can't complain too much about the service life of my original Kendas. Once in a while, I had the odd handling concern, but not enough to prevent me continuing. I've now gone 31,000 km on them (about 20K miles). The rear is in need of replacement; the fronts have enough 'meat' on them to likely go another 10K km or so. I have heard of one rider who got 60K km out of his. Even so, I'm swapping over to Mike's recommended Vredesteins for my front, and a Kumho on the rear. I likely would have gone to Quatrac 5's all the way around, but couldn't find a rear of that brand to fit. As well, I like the looks of the Kumho Ecsta rear tread pattern. I've checked the reviews of others who have tried the same mix and match solution and been impressed by the handling improvements.

Good luck in your search. Availability of supply may be your biggest obstacle. Searching for a supplier who had 'in stock' availability actually took longer for me than delivery, which turned out to be very quick. With winter upon us here, I'm saving the mounting until spring, and looking forward through the winter to a 'new beginning' when the snows melt.

Cheers.

Thanks for the compliment ..... Just let me say the Q-5's do come in 205/60 and 205/65 -15's that will work great on your Spyder ( many others here are using them ) .... I'm mostly about safety, and the Q-5's have excellent WET traction ( as well as Dry )... The 205 width is a slightly narrower tire, and should have LESS of a tendency to " aquaplane ". ..... PS I like 17 F & 18 R psi.....Mike

 

[dicko]

My 990 2012 Spyder (and the 2008 before that) handles best with just 13 psi in the front and 22 psi in rear. I put 22 psi in the front by mistake once and had a horror trip for a few miles. Front wheels bounced and when I hit the brakes, the ABS came in. Too much in the back and the centre of the tyre wears prematurely.

 

[johnsdenm]

It sounds like you're really delving into the tire choices for your Spyder, and it's great that you're doing thorough research. Regarding your question, using different brand tires front vs rear can sometimes be advantageous, especially if you're focusing on specific performance characteristics like grip or durability. For instance, some riders might find that certain front tires provide better cornering stability, while different rear tires offer superior traction.

However, it's essential to consider how these combinations affect overall handling and safety. When it comes to part worn tyres, they can be a cost-effective option if you're looking to experiment with different brands without committing to a full set. Just ensure they have enough tread and are in good condition. Ultimately, mixing tire brands can work well if you find the right balance for your riding style and conditions!