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Two ply sidewall

Star Cruiser

New member
I am almost ready for a new Rear tire. This will be my 3rd tire (60,000km). I am thinking about possibly Toyo this time.
Two concerns are:
Do the 4 ply sidewalls give less "flex" than 2 ply? I am pretty agressive, especially in corners. Would this play havoc on the Stability Control System?

Less wear would normally mean that the rubber is harder.
Are the car tires less "sticky"? Again, I am looking for handling and control. I don't do hard starts and stops, but cornering and acceleration are important to me. I figure $185 every 20,000 km (12,000mi) is not that bad, but if I can double or triple that with no cost on handling, why not
 
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CAR TIRES

I have been using car tires on all my Spyders, and of course 4 ply's are stiffer than 2 !!!!..... I think the problem is people still inflate the car tires to KENDA tire specs 28 + PSI ......... Well the Kenda ...NEEDS 28+ PSI .......I have always run my car tires at 21-22 PSI with absolutely NO ISSUES ..........The ride is better .....and WET road performance is better ....... But what would I know ??? .... I was a Certified expert on Hydro-planning ( Court testimony etc. )....... I have a Michelin Hydro-Edge and am sorry they don't make it any more...... But the General Altimax RT 43 in 215/60 -15 has some very good performance numbers ......Mike :thumbup:
 
I'm with Blueknight on this one!! The Kenda tires are crap tires that need about 28 psi in the rear bag just to hold the weight of the Spyder off the ground!! Car tires are generally up to carrying higher weights at the same sort of pressures, but our Spyders are significantly lighter, so you really shouldn't need the same pressure to hold everything up!! Running the same pressures in a 'stronger' tire will probably compromise your road holding (especially wet weather grip & hydro-planing!!) & the tire life.

Me, I run slightly larger than stock Kumho non-directional Touring tires on my Spyder, so they've got a non-directional tread and a harder compound as well as the stronger construction to cater for, so I run 16 psi up front & between 18psi & 22psi in the rear tire depending on the load/conditions!!

But I simply can't agree that with anyone re there being no change in ride & handling - I HAVE noticed a significant improvement in ride, handling, noise, traction, in fact, basically in every way possible over the Kenda's!! ;)

As for the Nanny, she gets upset waaaay less than she did, but still does her thing when warranted (that just happens far less often) so I can corner faster (wet or dry) with no hydro-planing at all, ride more comfortably (solo or 2 up), and have so far got waaaay better ride & handling as well as about 5 times the tread life from the Kumho's all round than I got from the Kenda's, with somewhat more tire life still remaining! :thumbup:
 
I went from the Kenda to the Kuhmo that is/was highly praised. It was awful for my driving style and the weight on the rear of my ST. Would not stick on cold pavement, older grey pavement and wet pavement. Got down to 20 psi trying to get some grip and then it started acting badly in curves. It sucked so bad that I replaced with less miles on it then the Kenda I took off. Lesson learned. Then went to the Yokohama S Drive. That was much better. Most of it's life was at 24 psi but went down to 22 and should have a lot sooner. I have now put on an old obsolete BF Goodrich g-force sport. Got it so cheap that if I don't like it. Oh well, get something else. So far so good but have not had it in the wet yet.
 
I put on the Toyo and love it.Handles and rides great.Only 5000km on it so far but i,m sure it will out last the original tire that lasted 16000km.
Bill
 
I am almost ready for a new Rear tire. This will be my 3rd tire (60,000km). I am thinking about possibly Toyo this time.
Two concerns are:
Do the 4 ply sidewalls give less "flex" than 2 ply? I am pretty agressive, especially in corners. Would this play havoc on the Stability Control System?

Less wear would normally mean that the rubber is harder.
Are the car tires less "sticky"? Again, I am looking for handling and control. I don't do hard starts and stops, but cornering and acceleration are important to me. I figure $185 every 20,000 km (12,000mi) is not that bad, but if I can double or triple that with no cost on handling, why not

The sidewalls of the tires we are talking about are 2 ply (Kuhmo, Toyo, etc.) It is the tread area that is 4 ply vs the 2 ply Kenda tire. However, that is not the end of the story. Depending on the material used and the design. The same 2 ply rating can be more or less stiff. So even 2 ply vs 2 ply is not necessarily going to give you the same handling characteristics. Typically, the average 2 ply car tire sidewall will be stiffer than the Kenda. Helping to control roll under which keeps the tread area of the tire more in contact with the road surface during hard cornering.

Definitely, the 4 ply tread on a car tire will keep the tread flatter and more in contact with the road than the 2 ply Kenda.
 
The sidewalls of the tires we are talking about are 2 ply (Kuhmo, Toyo, etc.) It is the tread area that is 4 ply vs the 2 ply Kenda tire. However, that is not the end of the story. Depending on the material used and the design. The same 2 ply rating can be more or less stiff. So even 2 ply vs 2 ply is not necessarily going to give you the same handling characteristics. Typically, the average 2 ply car tire sidewall will be stiffer than the Kenda. Helping to control roll under which keeps the tread area of the tire more in contact with the road surface during hard cornering.

Definitely, the 4 ply tread on a car tire will keep the tread flatter and more in contact with the road than the 2 ply Kenda.

Thanks Ron, and everyone who replied. Great information to make an informed choice. Will let you know how I fared out.
 
Running 22lbs on rear Kenda tire seems to be ok down to wear bars center from over inflation I believe but what do I know


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I'm with Blueknight on this one!! The Kenda tires are crap tires that need about 28 psi in the rear bag just to hold the weight of the Spyder off the ground!! Car tires are generally up to carrying higher weights at the same sort of pressures, but our Spyders are significantly lighter, so you really shouldn't need the same pressure to hold everything up!! Running the same pressures in a 'stronger' tire will probably compromise your road holding (especially wet weather grip & hydro-planing!!) & the tire life.

Me, I run slightly larger than stock Kumho non-directional Touring tires on my Spyder, so they've got a non-directional tread and a harder compound as well as the stronger construction to cater for, so I run 16 psi up front & between 18psi & 22psi in the rear tire depending on the load/conditions!!

But I simply can't agree that with anyone re there being no change in ride & handling - I HAVE noticed a significant improvement in ride, handling, noise, traction, in fact, basically in every way possible over the Kenda's!! ;)

As for the Nanny, she gets upset waaaay less than she did, but still does her thing when warranted (that just happens far less often) so I can corner faster (wet or dry) with no hydro-planing at all, ride more comfortably (solo or 2 up), and have so far got waaaay better ride & handling as well as about 5 times the tread life from the Kumho's all round than I got from the Kenda's, with somewhat more tire life still remaining! :thumbup:


:2thumbs: But WHAT tire are you using? "non-directional Touring tires" is the rather broad spectrum :p
 
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