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There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Two Brothers pipe question.
- Thread starter ST114ME
- Start date
muffler
it is a simple procedure to remove the stock muffler and install the new one. your machine will run fine, no need for a juice box or anything else. ENJOY
it is a simple procedure to remove the stock muffler and install the new one. your machine will run fine, no need for a juice box or anything else. ENJOY
Spyder Tony
New member
One word of note...you MAY experience "popping" on deceleration in lower gears (1st & 2nd). Many have experienced this and although you do not need a fuel controller, the use of one has solved the aforementioned issue. There are many threads on this, but here are a couple of them:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?58431-Two-brothers&p=695507#post695507
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ust-with-Juice-Box-Filter&p=609517#post609517
Also, I assume you know you will need to switch out your air filter for a K&N, Green, or similar product.
Spyder Tony
New member
Not casting aspersions, but getting an aftermarket muffler without swapping out the air filter for a more free-flowing one almost defeats the purpose of adding the muffler...unless you are after the increased sound DB. the benefits of the aftermarket muffler are minimized as it cannot properly "breathe" using the increased airflow without benefit of the swapped out air filter.
I'm not putting it as eloquently as Scotty, so i'll use his words from a topic I posted a while back:
"Without exhaust and or intake/camshaft modifications to flow more fuel/air, there will be no performance increase to speak of. More fuel (Juicebox function) is only needed if you can move more air/fuel mix or pack more into the cylinder. Reducing the air/fuel ratio might be marginally helpful in an EPA lean engine, but it mostly just wastes fuel. An optimal air/fuel ratio can only increase performance if you can get more of it in and out of the cylinder"
I have some information that would indicate that the controller and Fuel Mgmnt module for the RT is "self Adjusting" up to 6000 RPM so if thats the case you would not need to do anything in fact I was told the software is rather complex and because of that aftermarket fuel management modules are rather useless in this range of just above idle to 6000 RPM. So if its the case the fuel Mgmnt sets the A/F ratio and adjusts accordingly then mods to the Air Filter and exhaust should have little impact as the Fuel Mgmt system will compensate. Anyone care to interject? BRP?
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
The self-adjustment is pretty much true for all ECM systems. The problems arise when the changes the user makes increase the airflow to the point that the fuel needs fall outside of the mapping programmed into the ECM. At that point it can no longer compensate, and needs the help of an aftermarket device. The Spyder RT seems to have a wider range of mapping than the early GS/RS. Those needed fuel management mods with as little as a muffler change. It depends on the machine, the climate, the elevation, and how you ride. There is no way to predict the need...you just have to chase it if your mods throw things off too far.
That's my question the base map and the stock ECU and the amount do you know for sure what that percentage is does anyone except the BRP and original MFG of the ECU know? if you do by all means share it because not to sound lime a jerk but speculation will just get us in trouble. not to mention on the 2013 the MAP change in the most recent service bulletin.
I have been told an after market module on the Spider RT is useless from just above idle to 6000 RPM. That information cake from an aftermarket MFG of An add on ECU.
I have been told an after market module on the Spider RT is useless from just above idle to 6000 RPM. That information cake from an aftermarket MFG of An add on ECU.
captblack
New member
I installed a 2 Brothers on my 2011 RT at the 600 mi. service and everything has been great with 34K on the clock now. The ECU kept up fine - I've ridden from sea level to over 12,000 feet in Colorado with no issues. Gas mileage has been constant 32 - 34 mpg. I have the stock air filter, too.
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