Turn signal sticking when it's cold

[araknd]

Has anyone had trouble with the turn signal when it's cold out? I left for work at 0600 this morning..on the spyder...and it was 11 degrees. The turn signal wouldn't come on on, but I found. After a ways that holding it to the side and it would come on. It's happened at 17 degrees too.

 

[Bob Denman]

:dontknow: Cold weather can do that to the mechanicals... :dontknow:
But, John Thornton found that the switches might need help with a little bit of trimming... :thumbup:

 

[missouriboy]

My turn signal switch stuck badly and was replaced under warranty. Now it still sticks "on" for left turns but works fine to the right. It sticks on, doesn't self-cancel, and I end up cruising along signaling a false left turn. In any/all weather.

I have some Control/Contact Cleaner & Lubricant from Radio Shack that says "Safe On Most Plastics" but I haven't attempted to use it on the Spyder. Since it's in outdoor service, will this stuff just gum up the works and make it worse?

Anybody have any experience with such stuff outdoors? Thanks in advance!

 

[Dragonfly]

Mine did and Dealer replaced entire unit under warranty. We tried the cleaner first but did not help.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[missouriboy]

Mine did and Dealer replaced entire unit under warranty. We tried the cleaner first but did not help.

OK, Thanks. Luckily I have now already developed the habit of immediately flicking it back to center when first turning it on, and that makes it self-cancel normally. Unless I forget!

I find this switch nearly useless as a freeway lane-change signal... it's too difficult to turn it back off with the "centerpunch" on rough roads, and the distraction of making sure it's off seems more dangerous than not using it in the first place! For me, the handlebar vibration sends my centerpunch action to the right or left instead, just as often as not, and the constant fiddling and checking those teeny-tiny flasher signals just takes my eyes off the traffic for too long to be safe. [/rant]

 

[bertmc]

Amen from another Missouri Boy

OK, Thanks. Luckily I have now already developed the habit of immediately flicking it back to center when first turning it on, and that makes it self-cancel normally. Unless I forget!

I find this switch nearly useless as a freeway lane-change signal... it's too difficult to turn it back off with the "centerpunch" on rough roads, and the distraction of making sure it's off seems more dangerous than not using it in the first place! For me, the handlebar vibration sends my centerpunch action to the right or left instead, just as often as not, and the constant fiddling and checking those teeny-tiny flasher signals just takes my eyes off the traffic for too long to be safe. [/rant]

I don't like everything about the Spyder, but I don't complain about much. Except this. I think this is poor engineering, creating dangerous distraction to use something that is so important.

 

[araknd]

Today I was talking to the mechanic and he thought spraying some WD-40 in there might help, but the manager said if it keeps doing it they'd switch out the handle bars. Do you know if just the switch can be replaced or is this all inside the handle bars?? I told them that at 0600 hrs people cannot see your hand signals. I, too, am having canceling problems. Thanks for your responses!

 

[NancysToy]

Today I was talking to the mechanic and he thought spraying some WD-40 in there might help, but the manager said if it keeps doing it they'd switch out the handle bars. Do you know if just the switch can be replaced or is this all inside the handle bars?? I told them that at 0600 hrs people cannot see your hand signals. I, too, am having canceling problems. Thanks for your responses!

The entire left-hand control assembly would need to be replaced. The switch is not separately available. Several owners have carefully filed the plastic where it contacts the lever, and have repaired theirs. Others have had to have them replaced. Be careful with the WD-40, it can get into the contacts and insulate them from working. WD-40 is dielectric (non-conductive). It doesn't get along with parts that must make electrical contact.

 

[missouriboy]

...WD-40 is dielectric (non-conductive). It doesn't get along with parts that must make electrical contact.

Scotty, that's good information to know.

Now,do you have any opinion about the stuff I mentioned in Post #3? I checked the label for contents and found: 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane CAS# 811-97-2 White Mineral Oil CAS# 8042-47-5

The spray is meant for sticky radio-knob lubrication, and does not mention conductivity. So I won't use it unless I hear it's OK... SpYders are just too expensive! TIA

 

[NancysToy]

Scotty, that's good information to know.

Now,do you have any opinion about the stuff I mentioned in Post #3? I checked the label for contents and found: 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane CAS# 811-97-2 White Mineral Oil CAS# 8042-47-5

The spray is meant for sticky radio-knob lubrication, and does not mention conductivity. So I won't use it unless I hear it's OK... SpYders are just too expensive! TIA

I have no idea. Never heard of it. Be sure it says it is safe for use on plastics. The TFE should evaporate, so only the mineral oil is doing anything.