Turbine like sound from my 2017 RTL

[spydernatic]

I have this turbine like whine sound coming from my 2017 RTL, it only happens when I change to 2nd gear and with two up and under pressure say through a sharp corner when I have to go through the corner at low revs. Noticed this a lot more this last weekend on the tail of the dragon as we all know a lot of the Dragon turns are low speed 2nd gear corners.
I have done some testing on straight roads and higher revs around 3900 and changed into second it may still be there but can not hear it as clear due to motor noise.
I do have the Doc Humphries belt tensioner on and have had it for over a year but have not done corners like the Dragon.
Any ideas what this can be I am thinking it is the belt tensioner as I had heard the can cause a turbine whine but why only 2nd gear? as it does not happen in any other gear.
Talked to my my local Dealer and they were very helpful and want me to bring it in so their tech can check it out for me.

 

[Ex-Rocket]

I also have Doc's belt tensioner on my F3 L but only have less than 6000 on the tensioner and I have checked it recently along with the front pulley for the red dust. Thank goodness all looks well with both. How many miles are on the Tensioner? Have you inspected the front pulley for red dust? I'm more thinking it could be the tensioner though, but don't understand why only 2 gear you hear the noise. Keep us updated on what you find or what the dealer says. Good luck.

 

[Ex-Rocket]

Second thought is maybe somebody slipped a turbo or even better a supercharger while you weren't looking on your Spyder. :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

 

[spydernatic]

I was going to say in the write up about someone will mention a turbo but thought " oh well let them at it "all answers are welcome.......no turbo though that would have been an easy explanation.

 

[spydernatic]

Belt tensioner been on about a year and around 3000 miles since installing it I will let the dealer check it althrough my thoughts were to tie up the tensioner with a plastic tie and run some tests to see, but I want the dealer to document it so if something is wrong it will be in the system to repair.

 

[MONK]

I haven't been on the Tail of the Dragon any time recently and never on a Spyder but if the curves are still ~30mph ones, I'd say those are almost 1st gear curves. Wind the thing out. As long as you're below the redline and you aren't holding 6500rpms constantly, I'd say it's better to run the bike at higher rpms rather than lug it out. I mean, it's not a big V Twin. Let it scream! On a few of my favorite local winding roads, I'm rarely below 4k rpms and most of the time get beyond 5k+.

 

[ButterSmooth]

I haven't been on the Tail of the Dragon any time recently and never on a Spyder but if the curves are still ~30mph ones, I'd say those are almost 1st gear curves. Wind the thing out. As long as you're below the redline and you aren't holding 6500rpms constantly, I'd say it's better to run the bike at higher rpms rather than lug it out. I mean, it's not a big V Twin. Let it scream! On a few of my favorite local winding roads, I'm rarely below 4k rpms and most of the time get beyond 5k+.

??
From the "Dos and Don'ts" sticky:
1330 Engine Power Band (Dyno-Chart Data):

1st level power band begins at approximately 2,500 — 2,700 rpm’s and remains flat until 4,000 rpm’s.
2nd level power band begins at approximately 4,500 — 4,700 rpm’s and peaks at 5,000 rpm’s.
After 5,000 rpm’s the power declines slightly until reaching 6,000 rpm’s; where the power rapidly declines; thus proving any increase in rpm’s above 6,000 rpm’s on the 1300 is inefficient and fruitless with regard to obtaining additional power and torque.

Back on the thread topic, turns seem to exacerbate the belt whine on my RT. I'm sure the chassis flexes and the belt walks around on turns. I've gone to a parking lot and ridden right and left circles, then stopped to look at the belt. It moves about 3/16" to either side when turning quickly. My GUESS is that's where your sound is coming from.

 

[spydernatic]

2017 has the 1330 and gear changing is a lot lower than the 2012 RTL I had where I used to change at 5200 RPM now I aim for 3800 to 4000 RPM

 

[MONK]

2017 has the 1330 and gear changing is a lot lower than the 2012 RTL I had where I used to change at 5200 RPM now I aim for 3800 to 4000 RPM

That may be the sweet spot when shifting (and generally when I do) but that doesn't mean you can't wind it out. I understand like ButterSmooth said, the power drops off above 6k but there aren't that may straightaways on the Dragon so you wouldn't be winding it out much. Plenty of power between 4k-6k rpms.

 

[JayBros]

Belt tensioner been on about a year and around 3000 miles since installing it I will let the dealer check it althrough my thoughts were to tie up the tensioner with a plastic tie and run some tests to see, but I want the dealer to document it so if something is wrong it will be in the system to repair.

I agree both with your wanting to document any problem with the Spyder vis-a-vis its OEM equipment and parts as well as tying up the belt tensioner to see if the noise goes away. As part of tying it up you also can get a sense of possible roller going bad. Remember, Doc is apparently out of business so, AFAIK, you may be SOL if the roller has gone bad, in which case the easiest and least expensive thing to do is remove the tensioner yourself. If you tie it up and there is no unnecessary vibration your job is done. If you are getting belt vibration ask the dealership to adjust the tension to remove the vibration.

 

[missouriboy]

I was just scanning the topic list here, and I thought this one said Tribune-like sound... and I didn't even know I was dyslexic!

Hmmm... now there's an idea for a publication name: "The Turbine Tribune." A trade rag for hydroelectric plant operators, maybe?

Perhaps I now need to join that Union with the motto: "Dyslexics: UNTIE!"

(Just a little funnin' here, for the final day of Dyslexia Awareness Month.)