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Tune power commander in Charlotte NC area?
- Thread starter NVERLAST1
- Start date
NVERLAST1
New member
NVERLAST1
New member
I have a power commander 5 with autotune, RLS punisher exhaust and Kewlmetal performance air box.
Joel The Biker
Member
If you have autotune, then you dont really need a dyno. The autotune uses a wide-band oxygen sensor to monitor you air to fuel ratio and make adjustments automatically to maintain optimum fuel mixture around 14:1. That is the benefit of autotune.
Devious56
New member
I've hear for about three years now that there are no dyno's that will work with a Spyder, if this link works, you can make up your own mind.
Can-Am Spyder - Three Wheel Motorcycle - Bing video
Secondly, the ECU on the 1330 motor will reprogram it's self if all you are doing is changing the exhaust, all you have to do it make the change you want, then run the engine for 15 minutes to get it hot, then shut it off until it cools down. The next time you start it up it will be ready to go. The 990 motors are a bit more temperamental
David.
I have a 2015 RT Limited with a 1330 engine and the exhaust is one made by Pit Bull Powersports. When I behave myself I get 45 mpg and when I don't I can bang the 8300 rom rev limiter in the first 3 gears. Why buy something you don't need,
Can-Am Spyder - Three Wheel Motorcycle - Bing video
Secondly, the ECU on the 1330 motor will reprogram it's self if all you are doing is changing the exhaust, all you have to do it make the change you want, then run the engine for 15 minutes to get it hot, then shut it off until it cools down. The next time you start it up it will be ready to go. The 990 motors are a bit more temperamental
David.
I have a 2015 RT Limited with a 1330 engine and the exhaust is one made by Pit Bull Powersports. When I behave myself I get 45 mpg and when I don't I can bang the 8300 rom rev limiter in the first 3 gears. Why buy something you don't need,
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Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
A couple of misconceptions to iron out here. An Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) of 14.7:1 is only optimum from the standpoint of emissions. That's what the stock ECU is already programmed to maintain - along with every other vehicle on the road using a 3-way catalytic converter. It's not the optimum AFR for power, which is the whole reason to add a Power Commander, or now recently, flash the ECU. In the Rotax V-Twin Spyder world, the optimal AFR for power seems to be around 13.6:1 - ish, as indicated by DynoJet. Plus or minus a few tenths depending on the throttle / RPM combination.
The Power Commander allows you to change the desired AFR in both the Closed Loop and Open Loop areas of the fuel map. When set up properly, it spoofs the output from the O2 sensors and adds the additional fuel necessary to achieve this richer AFR without the ECU throwing any codes. By adding the Autotune, you are able to enter the exact AFR you are targeting, rather than experimenting with trim values yourself, and it will provide the trim values for you. But it requires the installation of additional wide band O2 sensors. With this system, you never mess with the ECU map like an ECU flash does. The choice is yours. There is no point or performance gained in spending big bucks on a Power Commander System with Autotune, and then tune for an AFR of 14.7:1, because that's the AFR you already have.
Plus, may as well remove the Cat, since operating at a richer AFR is doing it more harm than good.
Googling will reveal some videos of 2010 - 2012 machines on conventional dynos. It appears they got around the VSS system simply by removing the rear speed sensor. Not disconnecting it, just removing it or removing the rear brake caliper so that the speed signal could not be picked up. It seemed to work for those models. Here's a write up.
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=456070
The question ends up being - do you just want a dyno run to see what you've got, or do you want a complete tuning session to tweak on your target AFR table in order to maximize power across the entire operating range....And the value added compared to cost.
The Power Commander allows you to change the desired AFR in both the Closed Loop and Open Loop areas of the fuel map. When set up properly, it spoofs the output from the O2 sensors and adds the additional fuel necessary to achieve this richer AFR without the ECU throwing any codes. By adding the Autotune, you are able to enter the exact AFR you are targeting, rather than experimenting with trim values yourself, and it will provide the trim values for you. But it requires the installation of additional wide band O2 sensors. With this system, you never mess with the ECU map like an ECU flash does. The choice is yours. There is no point or performance gained in spending big bucks on a Power Commander System with Autotune, and then tune for an AFR of 14.7:1, because that's the AFR you already have.
Plus, may as well remove the Cat, since operating at a richer AFR is doing it more harm than good.
Googling will reveal some videos of 2010 - 2012 machines on conventional dynos. It appears they got around the VSS system simply by removing the rear speed sensor. Not disconnecting it, just removing it or removing the rear brake caliper so that the speed signal could not be picked up. It seemed to work for those models. Here's a write up.
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=456070
The question ends up being - do you just want a dyno run to see what you've got, or do you want a complete tuning session to tweak on your target AFR table in order to maximize power across the entire operating range....And the value added compared to cost.
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