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Trunk Spring

After bjt posted this, I also did mine like he did. In another post, he also stated he used the spring off of a unistrut spring nut, which I also had and used. I did this install several months ago, and haven't had to do any adjustments to it yet. This works great with the electrical solenoid that I also installed that pulls back the latching mechanism.

Yup, he even finally got mine on a couple months ago. I love it.
 
The more I think about it the more I think I will try a version of this.


I got it here: http://www.spydertalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7341&hl=Trunk+Latch

Mike


Yea, that's mine. I did it that way mostly because I had three of those springs sitting on my toolbox and I had many various sized washers sitting there too and I found two that worked. It was a zero dollar mod and its been working great for me for three or four months now. I also posted the info on SpyderLovers. Here's the link along with full details.
 
BJT,

You are a wealth of information...this is simply genius! If I were to go to ACE or Home Depot, what's the best way to figure out the size of the spring so I don't get the wrong size?
 
BJT,

You are a wealth of information...this is simply genius! If I were to go to ACE or Home Depot, what's the best way to figure out the size of the spring so I don't get the wrong size?


Hmmm.... I'm not sure what size spring to get from a hardware store. Like BigArm said, I had salvaged the spring from a Unistrut Spring Nut like the P1006 thru P1010 one. It seemed to be a good length and provided the proper spring compression to lift the trunk just enough to clear the latch pin. My local Home Depot sometimes carries those exact spring nuts and yours might also, if you wanted to look at them.

If you happen to have a friend, relative or aquaintence who is an electrician or other tradesman, they could probably just give you one. Many times, electricians just pull the springs off of the spring nuts and throw them out as they can sometimes get in the way when you are trying to put the stuff together and adjust it.
 
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Home Depot carries a package of three-four springs which fit fine. $3.00 +/- Not that many to choose from... can't miss them.

.

Hmmm.... I'm not sure what size spring to get from a hardware store. Like BigArm said, I had salvaged the spring from a Unistrut Spring Nut like the P1006 thru P1010 one. It seemed to be a good length and provided the proper spring compression to lift the trunk just enough to clear the latch pin. My local Home Depot sometimes carries those exact spring nuts and yours might also, if you wanted to look at them.

If you happen to have a friend, relative or aquaintence who is an electrician or other tradesman, they could probably just give you one. Many times, electricians just pull the springs off of the spring nuts and throw them out as they can sometimes get in the way when you are trying to put the stuff together and adjust it.
 
I must have tossed 1000's of those springs out, Unistrut has been the standard for over 40 years. Now I wish I'd kept some.
 
Why is it neccessary to have the trunk "pop" open? On my new SE5, I just turn the key to the trunk position and leave the key in that position. Then I just lift the trunk lid open and later close it when done. Finally, I turn the key back to "off" and remove the key.

Is it necesary to hold the key in the "trunk" position on the SM5 models?
 
Is it necesary to hold the key in the "trunk" position on the SM5 models?
It sure is on ours. Spring loaded to return both to center and up to the ignition position. The popper spring is just a convenience.
-Scotty
 
Excellent...

I'll have to find a spring and hook it up as per the instructions above...such a great idea...I was wondering why it wasn't working anymore...I figured the trunk liner was doing something funny but adjusting that did nothing...

Off to home depot I go this weekend...
 
Why is it neccessary to have the trunk "pop" open? On my new SE5, I just turn the key to the trunk position and leave the key in that position. Then I just lift the trunk lid open and later close it when done. Finally, I turn the key back to "off" and remove the key.

Is it necesary to hold the key in the "trunk" position on the SM5 models?



Maybe the key staying in the trunk unlatch position is a feature on newer Spyders. My key springs back to the center position from both the trunk and seat unlatch positions.
 
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Maybe the key staying in the trunk unlatch position is a feature on newer Spyders. My key springs back to the center position from both the trunk and seat unlatch positions.
Or maybe his is faulty. I would check another SE5 of similar vintage. Could be something loose or broken.

An alternate location for the popper spring is shown below. The spring must be big enough to clear the bolt on the latch plate that it sits over. I used a tapered spring I had lying around, but a straight one of the right diameter would work.
 
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