Trouble getting into Neutral gear

[Sopher]

For some reason I cant get my 2010 RTS SM5 into Neutral. I see the gearing fly by it, but it wont go INTO Neutral.
I seems suddenly I need to take my foot off the brake and sometimes it will go into Neutral.

I dont ever recall this behavior. I used to always be able to get into Neutral with my foot on the brake.

Yes my oil level is very good.

 

[bullant12]

For some reason I cant get my 2010 RTS SM5 into Neutral. I see the gearing fly by it, but it wont go INTO Neutral.
I seems suddenly I need to take my foot off the brake and sometimes it will go into Neutral.

I dont ever recall this behavior. I used to always be able to get into Neutral with my foot on the brake.

Yes my oil level is very good.

I usually run into that. Light taps... very light taps... have to do it several times. Meanwhile go to the dealer and have them check the Gear Positioning Sensor (GPS) with BUDS.

 

[Silvervette05]

My 08 rs m5 does the same thing every once in awhile. I gently taps to fix

 

[bruiser]

Agree. Light taps will do it. How many miles? Could need a GS adjustment.

 

[ARtraveler]

Me to once in awhile. Thanks for the info about the light taps. I will give that a try next time it happens. :thumbup:

 

[Sopher]

I only have 11,800 miles.

Third season though. Its been some long cold winters up here!

 

[NancysToy]

Clutch could be dragging a little. You are probably due for a clutch flush and bleed anyway. When that is done, take a look at the clutch fluid. If it is black and has sludge, it indicates clutch slave cylinder problems. If the slave leaks by even a tiny bit, it will be hard to find neutral. The problem will get progressively worse, although it may improve for a while after a flush and bleed. In the end, you slave cylinder will likely fail, and you will not be able to disengage the clutch at all. I'd report the problem to the dealer, flush and bleed the clutch, then check for discoloration at the next oil change. If the fluid dirties quickly, replace the slave cylinder, slave piston, and all O-rings before the slave fails completely.

 

[Sopher]

I'm very comfortable with changing the oil on the spyder. BUT I have no clue for the clutch fluid. Nor how to even check it.

The How, When and what is not known to me.

 

[NancysToy]

Best to have the dealer do it, if you aren't comfortable with it...especially with flushing it. The clutch reservoir is located on the left handlebar, it is the big rectangular box near the clutch lever/master cylinder. Removal of the top is necessary to check fluid level on all but the GS/RS with a sight glass. Removal of the top is essential to check fluid condition or to top off the level. Brake fluid is one of the best paint removers known, so before opening anything up, protect the Spyder with plastic, and everything else with more plastic. Also have clean rags handy in case of a "whoops". If the brale fluid touches anything, including the outside of the reservoir, it will remove or mar the paint in a heartbeat! Flushing is messy business, best left to someone who is experienced. I don't know how many miles you have, but the clutch system should be flushed and the fluid changed at least every two years. (Same goes for the brake fluid, BTW.) The fluid condition can be checked at that time, if not sooner. When my slave cylinder began to fail, I had to flush every 3,000 miles, at the oil change. I also had to top off the level frequently, as the bad slave leaked fluid. It will not show externally.